Hello All,

I have a '96 850 GLT wagon (5 spd) with just over 200,000 miles on it with the original windshield. Due to small stones and pebbles over the years, the windshield has so many scratches (no cracks) that it is difficult sometimes to see out of the windshield when you are heading into the afternoon sun. I have full glass on my auto insurance policy, and my insurance carrier will pick-up the entire cost without deductible. I have been told by the insurance company representative, and this has been confirmed by independent glass shops, that my insurance company may not pay for a Volvo OEM window because of the age of the car. My question is: Is it worthwhile to pay the additional cost out-of-pocket for a Volvo OEM windshield, or just sit back, pay nothing, and have an "after market" windshield installed instead?

I have received contradicting advice. The owner of my independent Volvo repair shop was for most of the 90s, the head of the service dept. of the local Volvo dealer. He said he wasn't impressed with the glass Volvo used. Customer's with new cars would come back a few months after buying a car, and complain about all the scratches on the windshield. Volvo refused to pay for a new windshield. The customer would pay to have a new Volvo OEM windshield installed, and a few months later would have the same problem with scratches. This was not an isolated incident, but was common.

Meanwhile, the owner of a glass shop that installs numerous windows on new and late model Volvos has told me he has seen no difference in the durability or quality of Volvo OEM windshields in comparison to after market ones. The only difference is price - which he agreed my insurance carrier may not spring for due to the age of the car. If I really want a Volvo OEM windshield, the insurance carrier will give my a credit for "X" dollars, but I would have to pay the difference for the additional cost of a Volvo OEM window.

The car is in great shape - I take good care of it. I wouldn't be surprised, assuming it doesn't get totaled in accident, to put another 100,000 on the car before retiring it. I would appreciate any comments or suggestions. Thanks in advance to all who respond.

Hugh

I have the original windshield also on my 95. No cracks just tiny pits like yourself. I find the windshield is quite strong and personally would never change it. What i do periodically is 'WAX' the windshield with a car polisher.
May sound crazy but it works. And to boot when it rains it repells the water!
If your windshield lasted this long why pay the expense and why use insurance where (it is a claim and strikes against you) You'll find this when you change policies and MAY affect your rate (depending on other claims whether its falls under collision, comprehesion or liability)

Just a thought. Glass is a separate coverage. Some insurance companies do not count a claim for a windshild against you as it was caused by something that you had no control over and is insured separately. Check with your company to be sure. Many companies use the same outside company to handle insurance claims for windshields and do not do it themselves. You can often obtain a discount on the deductable from a glass privider. My daughters glass had a $100 deductable and it was reduced to $50 by the vendor. Factory glass was requested and used as it was on a newer model. This replacement was on a 2004 model. The main reason for factory glass is to keep the car original. If it is going to cost a lot more for factory, you be the judge. Good luck.

Annpoal,

You're right on many counts. When I reported the claim, the form of questions used by the insurance company representative, seemed designed to confirm the damage to the windshield was not affirmatively caused by me, but instead was a result of natural road conditions: sand, pebbles, debris that over time will damage a windshield. You were also right, in that my insurance carrier AIG, is not handling the claim, but instead has referred me to an outside vendor who is handling the claim.

The cost of the Volvo OEM glass proved prohibitive. In the end, the glass repair service is using a European supplier of auto glass called, I believe "Securit". I know this company supplies OEM glass to some German cars, such as Volkswagen and I think possibly Saab. The glass repair service states it is the same quality as OEM glass, and will be completely covered by insurance, whereas the Volvo OEM glass would not. Anyway, I'll let everyone know how it works out. Thanks for your reply.

Hugh

Mike,

I've thought about the possibility, if not guaranteed likelihood that my insurance rates will go up for replacing the original windshield. However, I am concerned about how the glare is blinding in the afternoon sun. My wife, drives this car exclusively, along with my three children, ages 9, 8, and 4. I like to be frugal, but there may be that one critical time that my wife is unable to see clearly out the window due to lighting conditions, which may jeopardize her safety and that of my children.

By the way, what is the name and type of wax that you use on your windshield? I've thought about applying a liquid wax to help fill in or at least reduce the presence of the scratches. I was concerned that I might leave a "sheen" that would be impossible to remove. Apparently, you haven't had that problem, so I'm interested in the wax you use.

I do recall seeing a product advertised from time to time called, I believe "Rain-X". It's liquid which is designed to effectively cause water to bead right off the windshield, so quickly, that you can even get away without using you wipers. I don't know if the product helps to remove or reduce the glare caused by scratches and pits to the glass.

Thanks,

Hugh

I used simonize wax with a polisher. I dont think the type of wax makes a difference. I just started doing it when I wax the car.
With insurance. When you have a few comprehensive claims it can affect the insurance. They determine all claims you make. Obviously a collision claim will affect your insurance at renewal. If you have windshield claims, theft claims even not a fault claims they will all tally up. They will say your an at risk driver (being in the wrong place at the wrong time type of thing)
If its your first windshield claim in 10 years with no other claims then it wont affect you.

Mike,

I switched to AIG approximately 3 years ago from Travelers because of the cost savings. This is the first time I have every filed a claim for a windshield with any carrier. Although it is less than 10 years, because of when I signed up with AIG (originally it was GE Auto Insurance - but AIG bought them out)tis is the first claim for a windshield that I've filed with GE/AIG. I guess I'll find out if this will come back to haunt me when my renewal comes up.

Hugh

I'm at 120K and interested to hear if you had any strange issues with the car as you headed towards and over the 200k mark. Any clutch, engine, tranny issues--things other than routine mnx and known issues (ABS module, A/c, etc.)? Thanks.
--
Scott - '98 V70 T5M

Scott,

Thanks for your compliment. I have two '96 850 GLT wagons, both 5 speeds. One red, that was purchased new, and one silver, that was purchased when it was 3 years old with 50K on the clock. It was a Volvo VIP car I purchased from a dealer in MA. Ironically, it had originally been sold new by a dealer in CT where I live. The original owner traded it in for an Audi. The Audi dealer wholesaled it, and local Volvo dealer up in MA picked it up and auction, cleaned it up and re-sold it to me. The car now resides once again in CT. It now has a 152K on the clock.

With regard to service issues as you approach and exceed 200K, I would have say there is nothing extraordinary, other than other things mentioned on this web site: A/C evap, RMS, ABS pump. I had all those things replaced before I hit 200K. The RMS went at 165K. Because it caused oil to leak onto the clutch, it just made sense to replace it at the same time. I've had the rear door panel fixed a couple of times with the new metal clips, but it will still rattle sometimes. In fact, I'm now replacing the rear lock mechanism because it causes a "rattling noise". That rattle may have been caused due to a period of time it was hard to close the hatch tightly, and my wife compensated by really slammng it. That lasted for several months, before it was adjusted, and that may have permanantly jarred the lock mechanism.

Something, I've noticed, is the 850 did not come with a chamber adjustment. As you start to put on the miles, your local alignment shop may find it harder to bring your car into spec because of the absence of a camber adjustment. Fortunately, Volvo sells a chamber kit. I couldn't get it from my local Volvo dealer, but was able to obtain one from iPd. Go figure right? I even read the Volvo part number off the box over the phone to my local dealer, and he still could find a part listing.

A noise that appears to be common to manual 850s, is when you let out the clutch, especially when the car is cold, you will hear a rubber like "rubbing noise". According to my mechanic, this noise is caused by a 50 cent bushing, which would cost you several thousand of dollars to fix, because you would have to pull the transmission. It best to wait until you have to replace the clutch or the RMS and then replace that bushing. I had that done on my wife's red 850 at 165K when I had the RMS and the clutch replaced at the same time.

I have noticed, I believe some "smoke" in the exhaust. I'm really not sure, if it is present. The car doesn't use more oil than what I've seen on this site as being considered "normal" for an 850. My independant mechanic said, if smoke does develope in the exhaust, it will probably be a sign of worn rings or valve stem guides that have to be replaced.

I noticed that at around 145K, my silver 850 started to develope squeeks in the front driver's seat that were difficult to isolate and fix. It caused me to replace the tracks the seat travels back and forth on (the two of them together in parts alone cost nearly or over $300).

I guess the best advice, is just to start all over with the Volvo maintenance scheduled contained in your owner's manual and the seperate maintenance schedule that came with the owner's manual everytime you hit another 100K. I hope I was helpful.

Hugh

Thanks, Hugh. I appreciate your insights. Very helpful info.

Picked my car up at an insurance salvage auction 3 years ago with 93K on it. Had a friend in the body business replace the banged rear quarter panel and bumper and it was good as new. It's been a wonderful car with just minor annoyances (various interior squeaks like you mentioned and stubborn CEL) but overall mechanical has been fine--just had ABS module repaired. Glad to hear your clutch was still good up until the RMS leak--guess I should watch out for oil drips in that area in the future--nothing so far. My previous 94 850 (auto tranny) developed a RMS leak at 90K--hated to spend big dollars on a $20 part but that's life.

Well thanks again and best wishes for continued high-mileage motoring.
--
Scott - '98 V70 T5M

Scott,

Because your Volvo is a T5, and therefore a turbo, I don't believe the engine has a flame trap. My '96 GLT is a non-turbo, and the owner's manual requires that the plastic flame trap be replaced every 30,000. I've done that religiously on both cars, and my independent Volvo mechanic has told me that is why I went well over 100,000 before I had to replace the RMS. Apparently, if you don't replace the flame trap, it becomes clogged (which it will) and in turn causes internal engine pressure to increase that leads to the demise of the RMS. It's ironic, the flame trap trap, like the RMS seal is relatively inexpensive, but left unattended can cost big bucks.

Thanks for your good wishes on high mileage motoring. I hope and expect to put 300K on my wife's red '96 850 (she does a lot of driving each day to work) and I do take pleasure at looking at the 100K and 200K Volvo High Mileage Club Medallions on the front grill. I've got only one on my silve '96 850, but hope to get another in two years, maybe less. I'm in no rush. It seems to be one of those things, that one day you look at the odemeter, and are shocked how many miles you have on your Volvo. Volvo's are not cheap to maintain, but if I was to sit down and crunch the numbers, I think I would still be ahead with the Volvo. At 200K, if I had an ordinary car, or didn't take care of it the way I do with a Volvo, I would probably have bought two, maybe even three new cars during the course of 200K miles.

By the way, I like the T5's. I'm hoping that someday, I'll be able to find a good used one with a 5 speed. They are very rare, but are out there.

Hugh



Hugh

Hello All,

I want to thank all of you for responding to my inquiry. You all raised legitimate points. What I think I'll do is use a Volvo OEM windshield if there is no out-of-pocket expense to me. If there is, and it is significant, then I'll op for the after market window. One of the responses pointed out how real "Volvo Heads" will notice the difference between an after market window and a OEM window. I have 200K on the car now, and plan to keep driving it until it dies, or is nolonger economically viable to do so. Within reason, I would like to keep everything on the car OEM Volvo - but if there is no compelling difference in quality and safety, but a huge differene in price, I'll say "Adios" to the Volvo OEM windshield. After all, I used to put Michelin MVX4 "V" rated tires, that the car came with originally, until the cost per tire became obscene and according to reviews in Consumer Reports, there were tires available that were just as good for considerably less.

Hugh

Hugh,
I have found my replacement windshield to be inferior to the original in that it gets pitted a lot quicker and the wipers bounce a lot more than the original. Call your insurance company and tell them you cannot see out this windshield anymore and it is dangerous. They will pay for it all, even if it's a Volvo windshield. Replacements are cheaper because they are made cheaply.

Marty

Marty,

Thanks. In your situation, did you have the aftermarket windshield installed, found it to be inferior and then requested the windshield be replaced a second time at the insurance company's expense? If so, did your company pick up the entire cost of installing the Volvo OEM window, or did you have to pay for any portion of the replacement. Let me know. As indicated, right now, I'm having an after market windshield made by the European manufacturer "Secrut" installed. If is proves inferior, your experience could prove to be helpful. If you don't mind, the time period and the name of your insurance carrier would be helpful, in case I have to argue my case to the carrier. Boy, how a simple thing like replacing a windshield can become complicated.

Hugh

Hugh,
I have found my replacement windshield to be inferior inthat it gets pitted a lot quicker and the wipers bounce a lot more than the original. Call your insurance company and tell them you cannot see out this windshield anymore and it is dangerous. They will pay for it all, even if it's a Volvo windshield.

Marty

Other than having the "Volvo" logo on the glass, IMHO there is no difference. They should all be heat treated/shatter resistant with a (polyester?)lining between the layers of glass. The PPG(USA) logo on my windshield cost $175 compared to $450 for the Volvo logo.

I would go with a OEM glass if you are leasing or plan to trade in before the car gets too high in mileage. It looks good to have the Volvo logo on all the glass, and people do notice it - I did when I bought my used 850.

I think the glass is probably OK, just the quality of the installation. I remember seeing a 20/20 story a long time ago about installers touching parts of the adhesive with their bare hands, leaving oil deposits that would not bond properly in those areas. There have been cases where air bag deployment blew out the windshield and did little to help the occupants.

That being said, I replaced my windshield with a Volvo Pilkington one about 3 years ago, and it has held up well, even in Michigan, with famously poor roads.

There is no differece in the windshields....Volvo bonds the windshield to the car with heat making the entire sturcture stronger.

I agree that most aftermarket windshields are okay. I have replaced windshields on my 740 twice and and one on my sons Camry. Quality of the aftermarket glass has been very good. Just find the most reputable glass shop in your area and you should be satisfied.

I went for the $200 aftermarket (Singaporian) and I'm glad I did because not more than 4 weeks later THAT one was hit by a rock right in the middle of my field of vision, too. Current (South African) windshield will need replacement, after just a couple years. (The problem is the condition of our highways, not the windshields.) I'm going for the aftermarket (Brand-X) windshield, again.

-BTC

'98 V70 T5M, 151k mi, IPD stabilizer bars, Bilstein HD, Volvo strut tower brace and skidplate, e-codes, V-1, Mobil-1 since new