I recently bought my 1995 850 wagon with 178,000 miles from a guy I know and knew took care of the car. I took it in to the "volvo specialist" mechanic that has always worked on the car recently. I got a major tune-up along with brake pads and a tie rod of some sort up front. Within a week I had my car out of the garage while I was home and saw some oil. Figuring it might have been over filled with the tune-up I figured I would wait. It did not dry up so I took it to the shop. They threw it on the lift and said it was the rear main seal. My question is, is this just a coincidence or could they have done something to cause the seal to start leaking? Either accident or on purpose.
They are known as a reputable shop. Any thoughts before I shell out the cash to the same guys? Thanks.

I appreciate everyones info, and it does sound like it's a legit repair in the end. The thing I still don't have an answer to is that it began to leak literally the day after it went in to the shop, having never seen a single drop before that. Is there any part of the work that was done that would cause such a direct corrolation?

It's not a scam. It's different driving habbits. Chalk it up to buying a car with 180K miles, these things should be expected. Keep adding oil until you save up enough to pay what sounds like a good shop. And don't blame the previous owner either, when the RMS goes, it just goes.

Klaus
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98 V70Rawd(101Kmi), 95 854T(85K mi), 88 245(165K mi)

I appreciate everyones info, and it does sound like it's a legit repair in the end. The thing I still don't have an answer to is that it began to leak literally the day after it went in to the shop, having never seen a single drop before that. Is there any part of the work that was done that would cause such a direct corrolation?

That's the way it went on my '96. It seeped for a while and I kept it under control by keeping the flame trap and the small hose clean and by stuffing paper towels in the drain hole. But one day at about 180,00 mi it started gushing. I found a dealer to replace it for under $600. So the trans seal at the same time.

Hi C.B.,
Many RMS will fail well prior to 178K miles, so that car has done well. I would highly doubt it was a scam, more than likely, the crankcase ventilation system was plugged and that caused the RMS to come unseated. Also, at that age some RMS will fail just due to age. They didn't, by chance change to synthetic oil, did they?

BB

I don't know if they put synthetic or not, but I know where you're going as far as even being too good for those old seals. They replaced the PCV valve with the tune-up, so why only after my visit?

Maybe it was just time. The older seal material was not known to be particularly stout, as compared to more recent composite (1997 MY+ I believe). Car is non-turbo, correct? If not, have they ruled out the turbo piping?

You might also try a high mileage oil formula. Castrol offers one, as well as Mobil synth blend, designed for higher mileage vehichles. They contain mild seal conditioners that may help your situation. Also, if you are running 5W30 oil, switch to 10w30, as that may also improve the situation.

Regardless of what route you chose, good luck to you!

BB

My RMS went at right around 100K in my '93, and my flame trap and vent tubing were kept spotless prior to that.

If you get it replaced make sure they use the updated genuine Volvo replacement seal. It is thicker, made of a better quality polymer, and has a felt backing. The aftermarket seals are based on the original design, the one that has failed in so many cars. It's a little cheaper, but the Volvo seal is still only about 25 bucks, worth the added peace of mind.

I paid $600 from a highly recommended Volvo specialist in my area. The jobs a killer, dealerships in my area are getting ~$1000 for it. My guy said he's surprised to see any 850's these days with original seals lasting past about 125K, so I'd say yours has been running on borrowed time.