Here goes, I just have a couple of questions in regards to changing my timing belt, on my 94 850, Im ok with a set of tools, Ive built my mustang from the ground up blowers, motors heads etc,...... Just new to any serious engine work on the 850, Had no problem with the belt on my 89 240(great car) 270,000miles original clutch LOL, Just want to know if there are special tools for the job,Ive read over the bay 13 guide sevral times think im ready LOL, just would like to get some info from fellow brickers who have done the job.and about how long it took,and any advice or precautions as far as belt purchase(brands of belts to use) any and all info is greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance and sorry such a long post.

I didn't pull the crank pulley when I replaced mine. I had trouble because I got the worng belt, there are two different belts for an 850, depends on your serial number. Check the right front motor mount while you are there, I found that mine was cracked, they are for sale on ebay so I assume it's common failure. As far a replacing the waterpump, if you are doing it during the week, and you have a parts place nearby, I wouldn't buy one unless there is signs of weepage from the pump when you get the cover off. I plan to change mine at the next belt change of 140k, which will coencide with my next radiator flush. I took mine apart one evening, and back together the next morning, was test driving by 11am. Good Luck! Chuck.

Hi all...

I've done an S70 (99) which is slightly different to the 850 (the belt covers are different and so is the serpentine and the T-Belt has a few less teeth too). One tip I have... before you take the belt off if you get some Tippex (or other typists correction fluid and put a spot on the timing gears, a matching spot on some non moving part of the engine adjacent to the mark on the timing gears, and then do the same for the crank pulley and it makes it real easy to see when you have the alignment right.... Shouldn't normally take more than 2 hours max start to finish in my experience...

Good luck!

mine has 132,000 on it....and since iam gona do the belt is it a good idea to also cahnge the water pump while your in there??????

I've done the job twice using the Bay 13 instructions.
Hardest part was getting the belt on over the pully (2nd
time it was easier). Took about 4 hours the first time.
I thought about taking off the pully but was afraid I
might turn the engine and I did not want to do that.

Oh, the markjs can be hard to see and were different on my
S70 then my 850. You can search on "timing marks" to see
a couple other threads on that topic (but a mechanical
person will figure it out).

Always use a factory belt. The primer on Bay 13 is pretty much right out of the book and just as they teach it in Volvo school with the two additions of the bungee cord and the needle nose vice grips. Both of which work very well. The only thing that I do different is that I go ahead and pull the crank dampner out of the way. It is only one BIG nut and four 8mm bolts. You can go ahead and lever it out of the way with a big screw driver/pry bar. Once it is out of your way you won't have the hassle of trying to route the T/belt underneath it and it makes it pretty much a straight shot to get to the tensioner bolts. I use a 3/8" drive 12mm impact swivel socket to get on the tensioner and it comes right out. With it out of the way you will find that the tensioner can be removed and installed from the bottom without a problem and you can visually inspect the bottom of the crank gear to make sure that the belt teeth are aligned properly. If everything is aligned you will find that the tensioner will sit right back where it came from, if you have a place where the belt is not engaged (like the bottomof the crank gear) you will find that you have to fight to get that tensioner in. DO NOT FIGHT IT, re-check your intstallation and all timing marks. Lastly make sure you put the little tin sheild back onto the front of the oil pump BEFORE you put the serpentine belt on, you can do it the other way it is just easier if you do one before the other. Have fun and good luck.

thanks for the info guys like i said, its appreciated and welcome.Any more with t-belt experience on the 850, also RULE308, I was actually considering taking that off just didnt know if getting back on would be a hassle Thanks AGAIN GUYS.HAPPY BRICKING

Black 94850, I have my own shop so I use air tools on the dampner. One thing that will make your life easier is if you break all the fasteners loose on the dampner first and then reposition the timing marks and then take the fasteners out for real. I usually take out the 4 8mm bolts and then shoot the large nut loose, I then check and reposition the timing belt via a socket and the same big nut I just shot loose, then with everything dead nuts where it belongs I go ahead and hit that big nut with the impact gun and it spins right off without moving the belt or timing gears. Hope this makes sense to you.
Rule 308

Yep makes perfect sense,I have acces to air at the garage so I should be all set, And If for some reason I lose the mark while breaking the big bolt free, I can just re tighten and set my mark again,Thanks for all the info guys I will attempt this next weekend,I feel pretty confident thanks to a little extra help from my fello brickers.Also if for some reason I screw something up,my hometown volvo dealer (stealer) Is only a 2 minute tow from my garage,LOL he was asking $325. to do the job.Ill keep everyone posted,thanks again and feel free to chime in If you want to add any info before next weekend.
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94 850 n/a blah! 89 240

A timing belt on an 850 is different than a B2xxx engine(RWD). The engine is interference, so just be careful and double-check that you have the timing marks all lined up, otherwise you could damage the valves, etc., due to them colliding with the pistons. An otherwise straightforward process. Use only OEM parts, it's not wise to experiment on different brands of belts when it comes to timing belts. Also, check the water pump and T-belt cam seals. Failure/seizure of water pump could shred your timing belt. Failure of seals could leak oil on the belt, causing premature failure. That's my take on the 850 T-belt. Good luck!

Stick with OEM parts and replace the serpentine belt at the same time.
My two cents...
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'82 240DL Stock / Masters Class, '94 850 Fully Loaded / Daily Driver, CVC / VCOA Member http://www.capcan.com/tonyg.htm