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I doubt if you did anything to affect the compression. But the brake cleaner may have fouled the plugs temporarily, thus causing the hard starting. So relax. Everything is probably okay.
It was a good idea you had to use anti-seize on the threads. Nothing wrong with this with aluminum heads. In fact this is where it is supposed to be used--dissimilar metals which invites galvanic corrosion and thus frozen plugs..
Probably this mantra about not using anti-seize on aluminum heads comes from the Corvair/Porche quarters. Indeed, don't use anti-seize on the threads of an air-cooled engine (all of which have aluminum heads, and were some of the first to have alumimum heads in production cars), as it acts as an insulator and makes the plug run too hot. But on a water-pumper engine, this is not a problem.
Not using the anti-seize on the air cooled engines was not that great of a problem, as the plugs ate up rapidly and needed to be exchanged every 10,000 miles or so for optimum performance, whereas now in a Volvo they will run 100,000 K and still be going strong. But try getting them out of an aluminum head after that time if they have no anti-seize. You just might take pieces of aluminum thread with you as you screw the plug out.
And then when you are torqueing the plug back in and you almost get to the torque specs and, bang , there go the rest of the aluminum threads in the head. Off comes the head and away it goes to the machine shop and there go the greenbacks flying from your wallet. And there goes your ride for a month.
You did good on the plug change except risking blowing pieces of debris into your combustion chamber and thus risking scratching the cylinder walls. With luck, which you probably have, it just blew on through and out the exhaust. That and introducing a liquid into the combustion chamber whose properties are unknown to you, which is never a good idea.
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