Finally found an 850 turbo wagon in decent shape without a tan interior and for a reasonable price (seems like every 850 for sale in Nor. California has a tan interior). For sale at a dealer and has only 52k miles on it, but it has two problems that are sort of troubling.
-Valve Tap: When I started it up for a test drive, it had a noticable loud valve tap that didn't go away while it idled cold, but went away after I drove it and it warmed up. After the test drive while idling and warm, there was no tap. My wife's 850 has a similar intermittant valve tap that I'm about to use one of those "mystery oil" type products on. Anyway, has anybody had a tap like this that never went away and ended up requiring a valve job?

-Bad Upper Motor Mount: The upper motor mount was shot. It was completely loose, and none of the flexible "spoke" portions of the mount were left. So, it looks like this mount was bad for quite a while. Could anything else have been damaged when a bad mount like this is left unfixed for quite a while? What does it say about a car that has something like this left unfixed for such a long time?

It's got the noticable amount of cosmetic paint scratches, especially on the front spoiler, which is expected since it was a San Francisco car. But it drove well, the suspension and steering seemed nice and tight, and the engine pulled real well. And if I decide to buy it, I'll have it inspected by an independent Volvo mechanic.

Need to make a decision as to whether I should continue to pursue it, so any advice would be appreciated.

Steve T, 90 740 wagon, 94 850

Get the Urethane upper mount from IPD. It's a good mount and not too $$$. I got rid of my rattles by repalcing the ball joints and sway bar connecting links. The "clunking" disappeared.
1995 850 turbo, 171,000 miles

The upper motor stabilizer isn't a problem. It can be changed quite easily. The other noise: I would do an oil flush by:
Draining (don't remove the oil filter), adding 4 qts atf, running engine at an idle for 15 - 20 mins, draining thoroughly, changing filter, adding quality oil (not syn at this point) and seing what transpires. Actually, I wouldn't use syn in any event, as I change oil every month anyway. Sometimes it's as low as 2,000 miles, but it's cheap maintenance.
Then run the car for about 500 miles, do an oil change again... with filter.

Most oil additives are a total waste of $$ and time. Some are even destructive.

Valve tap happens any time they sit, it seems. It should go away with a single brief drive (15 minutes?) and be minor when the car is driven daily.

Top motor mount = normal wear and tear. Thats' how they fail. You can have a urethane one put in, which will last longer, but the price is harshness. Cheap to replace or have replaced. Lower mounts and brackets can loosen up if it was driven a lot with the bad top mount.

The main thing I'd worry about on this car is the rear main seal. Even at 50K a lot of them leak. Shops charge 10-11 hours labor for this job, as there is a lot of labor involved in getting at a $20 part for replacement.

If that's not leaking, I'd give the car a "yes". If it is leaking factor in the replacement cost and see if it's still worth it.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 86 244DL, 87 244DL, 88 744GLE, 91 244: 808K total

The valve noise probably nothing to worry about.

If the car had been sitting for several days on the dealer's lot the oil just drained out of the valve train and hydraulic tappets. Happens on my 850 too, my Volvo mechanic tells me it's not a problem - just drive the car more. If my car sits for a week or more I get the valve tapping noise you described. Once warmed up and driven the noise does not return.

Then again - Best advice is to have a good Volvo mechanic confirm. The alternative could be $$$'s.

The upper engine mount is such a common problem. I replaced mine 3 years ago with the IPD mount- not a single problem since.

IF YOU GUYS WITH AN 850 WOULD READ YOUR OWNERS MANUALS IT SAYS THAT THE MOTOR MAY TICK UNTIL IT IS WARM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As the original owner of a 95 850 (73K miles)going on its 2nd evaporator...have the ac thoroughly checked out!!

Dealers charge about $1,600 to replace the notorious evaporator (the parts kit which includes an evaporator, dryer and pollen filter is $400 from dealer).

At least three problematic areas for the 850 1) AC Evaporator 2) Main Seal
3) Auto Transmission

All are $$$'s to fix so do yourself a big favor and have a reputable Volvo mechanic check the car out.

Volvo's are ideal backyard mechanic's cars because something is always breaking.
Bay 13 at Volvospeed has saved me $$$$'s with their DIY repair instructions.

I like my 850 turbo - but as far as reliability doesn't come close to my Toyota's ( with far greater mileage).

But gotta love that turbo acceleration !

Nate,

How do you know when the evaporator is going? I did notice that the AC compressor would cycle on for about 5-10 secs with cold air coming out of the vents (not super cold though), then the compressor would cycle off for 2-3 secs and instantly warm air came out. This on-off cycling seemed to want to repeat indefinitely. Seemed kind of strange that there was insufficient thermal mass there for the air to not continue to come out cold when the compressor was off. I assumed it just needed a recharge, but it sounds like the most likely place for refrigerant to leak out is the evaporator. Is that the case?

Steve T, 90' 740 wagon, 94' 850 GTAS

"mystery oil" ...............stay away from this stuff....its all "snake oil" anyway. Just drain the old oil and drop the filter....then you can get a oil sump flush from Amsoil..drive it a bit.....then drop that, and fill with a quality synthetic, and replace the oil filter. OH....and stick with Volvo or Mann(oem) oil filters.
Just so you know.....in the owners manual it says to NRVER use a oil additive in these cars.
--
Steve F. in Hoboken, NJ

Firstly that tap noise is usually always hydraulic tappets that make a bit of a rattle on startup and at idle,you can try to flush tha oil and change to a better grade oil but replacing the tappets is the only real way to fix it.However apart from the noise it doesnt really cause any problems and lots of older 850s do this.
The torn upper mount is a very commen 850 problem and they are cheap and easy to replace,the fact that it hasent be done before says more about the people serving the vehicle than anything.Yes it does put some extra stress on the other mounts so check them to.
Check the front strut upper mounting bushes these are often broken and it can be hard to see if you dont know where to look,these cause a clonking rattle noise when driving over bumps.
When looking at buying an 850 ALWAYS check the history of the cambelt,its easy for a technician to check and costs a lot less to replace a belt than to replace bent valves if it breakes,(and yes they will bend valves if it breakes!)
Hope this is of some help.