After cutting out the original mount, I discovered that the mount available from GAPA (yellow polyurethane)was designed to fit only if the orginal mounting ring is also sawed out. I was reluctant to do so. I am present driving my car with no upper engine mount, and the offending pops and creaks that plagued me for so long are gone (yea!). Has any one used the yellow GAPA mount? How did you get it in? Does the mount from from IPD install inside the steel ring?

Much Thanks,

TR

Rollo41,

"After cutting out the original mount, . . ."

Problem #1, you did NOT cut out the original mount. You simply cut out a portion of the mount. The entire mount consists of an inner bushing, the rubber isolation material, and the outer bushing.

" . . . only if the orginal mounting ring is also sawed out. I was reluctant to do so . . ."

Problem #2, why are you reluctant to remove the outer bushing? That's like saying you want to do a brake job, but you are relucant to remove any of the wheels. Bottom line, you have to remove the ENTIRE old engine mount in order to replace it with a new engine mount.

"I am present driving my car with no upper engine mount, . . ."

Problem #3, bad news. Never drive a car with an engine mount missing. When engine mounts break (or are missing, as in this case), the engine moves far beyond the engineering limitations assumed by the designers. This can cause throttle cables and linkages to bind causing the engine to accelerate uncontrollably resulting in death or injury to you and/or pedestrians/bystanders, etc.

Sorry for being so tough on you Rollo, but I am sensing that you are blaming the designers of the GAPA bushing for a problem here, a problem that is entirely of your making.

Ken

I've installed the IPD mount without much hassle. In your case are you sure that there's no remnant of the OEM mount in the ring? The outer most part of the OEM mount is made of a different material than rubber. I would say a kind of reinforced rubber which is easy to confuse with the metal ring surrounding it. try to cut it with a hack saw or steak knife. If it comes out take it. At the end you should be left with only the metal ring itself and then the poly mount installs pretty easily. Hope this helps. And one note on driving without top mount. I wouldn't do it. As far as I know the engine should not move more than 1.25" in any direction. It could damage the inner CV joints.
Ihsan

Ihsan:
IPD states that you can replace their mount in 30 minutes with "common hand tools". Is this true? I need to do this also but don't want to mess with it if it is going to be a big hassle.

Yes,

That is true. Well maybe 45 minutes depending on what you use to cut the reinforced rubber ring of the OEM mount. You can't go wrong with the job actually, after finishing you'll see it was pretty easy. You'd better pop the hood to 90 degrees to make the mount rod easier to access. Like I've said you have to cut till you're only left with the outer most cylindirical metal ring. I had to grate it down with a screw driver and it just popped out by hand after that. If I'm not wrong the tools you need are 13 (firewall nut) to 15 (?)(mount nut) mm wrenches/sockets, torque wrench, WD40, hack-saw/steak knife. First loosen both of the nuts (the one for firewall and mount) and then remove them, mine was so tight that I had to put the firewall nut back on to be able to loosen the mount nut.

One last advise. If you can find a C-Clamp with the proper size (somtimes autozone rents tools on an hourly basis) I recommend you buy the OEM mount ($12) from volvoparts.com or similar, and put that one in. You may feel slight vibration with the IPD mount, however that is not much. I live in State College, PA. I can offer some help if you live nearby.
Good luck,
Ihsan

I read your earlier (last week) reply on this issue and carefully whittled the original rubber out down to the metal. The GAPA part (yellow polyurethane) is designed to fit when the original metal band is pressed out of the holder attached to the engine. I was cussing up a storm at this, so I called IPD and they assured me that their's would fit inside the metal band. Thanks for the warning about the strain on the CV joints. I 'll drive our Jeep instead until the part arrives.

TR

I just replaced the top mount on my 1998 and 1999 V70 T5's. I had to remove the metal ring. I scored it with a hacksaw and then used a chisel to pry up sections of the ring. EVentually, I was able to remove the ring with a pair of pliers. I also sprayed lots of WD40 on it while I was working.

Finally an answer to the root question concerning the metal band. I suppose I was too cautious about removing the band since it is very securely pressed into the bracket and appeared to provide a suitable mounting for the GAPA replacement. BTW, IPD stated their part comes with instructions, the GAPA part did not. My error in not obtaining GAPA's assistance earlier. Also, thanks to Ken for the advice concerning engineering limits.

TR