I plan on doing a brake job all the way around disc's included. What brand of pads and disc's should I buy, the one's at performancemotorcars.com are all within $10 to $20 of each other. Any other helpful tips would be appreciated. I'm new to the list, and Mama's car is getting alot of miles on it, so its in the do it yourself realm. Thanks!

Just pulled one on my '95. I replaced the front rotors with IPD's ATE Powerline and PBR deluxe (non'metallic) pads and SS lines. After I broke them in I noticed a better stopping feel, more positive. But they squealed, big time! I thought it might be pad material but after consulting with Fredrick at IPD was informed that everywhere there was metal to metal contact between the pad backing plates and the calipers I needed to isolate it with silicone anti-squeal grease. After I applied the silicone to the shiny spots from contact and the backs of the rear pads I found the noise was gone. It has remained silent for two weeks now. I did use the teflon shims on the rear pads, I didn't replace the rotors or have them machined, I just cleaned 'em with brake cleaner and put the new pads on. Rear brakes don't wear much so until I get some more wear indication I'll leave them be. CALIPER BOLTS! Don't bother to replace them, unless you need to feel good. The mechanics at my local volvo dealer said that they never replace bolts unless the heads are goobered up by a previous attempt. Volvo apparently includes new bolts with the calipers because they figure nobody will bother to clean up the threads and remove the original factory loctite compound. I just cleaned mine applied loctite and let them be. But if you need to feel good about it..... Some bolt applications, like head bolts require replacement because the 100+ Ft lbs distort the threads to ensure a good seal. The recommended torque on the caliper bolts is 100 NM, approx 75 ft lbs. For reference, your lug bolts are to be tighted to 80 ft lbs.

Tim let me know how is the brake job going.... let me know if you ran into any problem I have not done a brake job on my 850 yes....


done one for the 240 it was easy....


good luck stick with OEM part and making sure you apply some silicon stuff in back of the shim stock this help avoid the queeeeek sound.....

Thanks for the tips Ray.

I would stick to OEM Volvo parts. Especially for Mama's car.

After-market brake pads are more likely to squeel and sqeek. And,
if happy with the performance (they are pretty good) then OEM should
be fine. Some have also complained they don't stop as well while
others say they are equal in stopping performance.

OEM parts are available at www.volvoparts.com and do not cost much
more then after-market. You get new bolts and the required shims, too.

See this site:

http://volvospeed.com/bay13.htm

for step by step instructions (it is not all that hard, at all).
Correct use of brake grease and shims is important with this task.

One thing, the rear rotors last a long time. Unless you have
an unuseual situation (or over 100K miles) I would think they are
OK. But, you should just measure them to know for sure. Front rotors
wear pretty quick and by 60 to 70K need replacement.

I would second the motion for sticking with OEM pads after having problems with PBR and Mintex. If pull the rotors, you need to remove the caliper bracket and the books say to replace the caliper bracket bolts each time. If you buy the rotors from the dealer, you get the bolts. However I have bought Brembo rotors online several times and did not receive bolts. Volvoparts.com doesn't even list rear rotors. I have been unable to find someone that sells the bolts separately. Bottom line: you may want to buy rotors from dealer who provides bolts with the rotors.

BTW, the brake job with the 850 is as easy as it is with the 240, perhaps easier.

>Some have also complained they don't stop as well while
>others say they are equal in stopping performance.

Above applies to after-market pads. Sorry, was not clear on that.