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I just purchased a 1998 S70 T5M! Yeah I know I love it!
The dealer has been using 5w30 Oil not Synthetic oil! I would like to change over to Synthetic but my friend said if the car hasn't been using synthetic, I'll need to cycle the motor for 6 months or so with a syntec blend (synthetic and conventional mixed together) before switching to synthetic.
He also said regular motor oil is a lot thicker, and if the motor is use to conventional oil, then switching to a thinner synthetic will cause a bunch of little leaks you never had before - it will find a way out until the seals get cylced and expand to adjust to the new oil.
Any thoughts on this please? Also would mobil 1 be one of the better options?
Thanks
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Thank you everyone for your information. I have decided to go with Mobil1 supersyn 5W30 along with amsoil engine flush. Also over the weekend I picked up a K&N air filter and oil filter!
Thanks Again! ;)
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Following comments based on 25 years of using and selling synthetic oil.
Some consider my recommendations biased!
Change to synthetic. It would be advisable to use a good engine flush first (best I know of are made by AMSOIL and BG). If you don't, or won't, flush, watch for sudden signs of increased oil consumption after a thousand or two miles (the synthetic will clean out the gunk left by non-synthetic). If you see that increase, change the filter and top up. If you don't flush, plan to change the first batch after 3-4,000 miles, especially if the oil looks quite dirty..
Synthetic oil is in the viscosity range it shows on the label. It will clean out the old gunk, but unless there were already leaks there, there won't be any new ones caused by synthetic. My latest car, an 88 Saab 9000Turbo, was purchased with 87,000 miles on it. The shop dropped AMSOIL in it, no flush, before I bought it. I ran it a year with no problems.
The best oil on the market is AMSOIL Series 2000 0W-30. Next best is AMSOIL 5W-30 or 10W-30. The service life of AMSOIL in a turbo is 3 times the recommended drain interval.
Mobil 1 is excellent--you can use the 0W-30, 5W-30 or 10W-30. I don't recommend extending the drain interval unless you do some oil analysis.
If you have an automatic, by all means plan to change to synthetic ATF. Again, AMSOIL is my first choice, Mobil 1 next.
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Dick,
what about the AMSOIL 10W-40? ANy reason for leaving that out?
Yannis
--
2001 V70 T-5M SR, Classic Red/Graphite Lthr., ipd ME7 ECU Upgrade, K&N Air Filter, Cold Weather, Dolby Surr. Sound, Rear Spoiler, 17' 'Tethys' alloys
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It amazes me how nobody talks about Valvoline. I'm not a dealer trying to push the most expensive stuff on the market, but simply don't understand why people have so many issues with synthetic oil? I switched to Valv pure synth. 5w-40 @ $4.50 qt from Autozone parts stores with no flush on my last change. Since then I have had no oil consumption, no leaks, no problems.
An idea is stick with the owners manuel or e-mail the manufacturer and ask them what they suggest.
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Valvoline synthetic is not a bad oil. To the best of my knowledge, it is a Group III base stock (hydrocracked petroleum), and accoding to the Valvoline web site, it uses the same additive package as they use in the non-synthetic.
I certainly wouldn't try to extend the drain interval without doing oil analysis.
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I was never thinking about extending the interval. Some people may be brave enough for that, not me. Where did you find that information? Do they have it on other oils as well?
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Mobil one is a fine oil. I would use the 10W-30 in your turbo. Other quality 100% syn choices include Chevron (avail. a Kragen’s), Valvoline, Pennzoil. If you wan’t true synthetic oil, stick with the stuff that says 100% synthetic, not Full Synthetic. Full Synthetic is the term now used by Castrol in their phony “synthetic” oil. About the best you can buy for your car is the Amsoil stuff. There filters are also the best, if your car doesn’t have a reusable canister. I would do a flush with the Amsoil flush (the other stuff is usually made of harsh solvents, not detergent as in the Amsoil. Good luck.
--
1999 S7 T5
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The other manufacturers (Mobil, Pennzoil, Valvoline, etc.) do not distinguish their synthetic oils the way you claim. They all label their synthetic oils like Castrol; "Full Synthetic" oil.
Yannis
--
2001 V70 T-5M SR, Classic Red/Graphite Lthr., ipd ME7 ECU Upgrade, K&N Air Filter, Cold Weather, Dolby Surr. Sound, Rear Spoiler, 17' 'Tethys' alloys
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Yannis, You're right. Just did some checking. I guess the rules have changed again. Funny, but you can check the technical bullitans of all of these products except the Castrol. The pour points on the products I checked all indicate that they are PAO based synthetics, not hydroisomerized petroleum like Syntec, due to their sub -50 F pour points. I know you've been looking for something with a higher viscosity for your modified brick. Have you checked out the Mobil 1 0-40? This might fit your bill. If I were in your shoes, I'd still use the Amsoil 15-40.
Darren
--
1999 S70 T5
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Not true, at least according to the Synthetic manu sires. They do say, however, that it is better to have some miles on the engine prior to changing over to synthetic. I did it to 2 97 GLT Torbo's... No leaks, and (I really think that the turbo spins up faster with syn oil)... Maybe just wishful thinking.. Going to syn in the trannies next.. That's a few $$$ 22 qts of that stuff at $6 per qt... But I did a BG cleaner in them, flushed them with plain old tranny fluid, and at 1k miles going to flush again with syn....
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Do you use 5w30 or 10w30. Also do I need a special oil filter?
Thanks
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posted by
someone claiming to be Ray N.
on
Thu Apr 25 08:23 CST 2002 [ RELATED]
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I use 10w30 all year around in the San Francisco Bay Area (moderate
climate). 6 quarts. Check the level regularly since Volvos can burn
a quart in 4000 miles. I believe the manual says 10W30
For filter, use a volvo filter or Mann filter (Mann are sold by
www.ipdusa.com and filters by the dealer or www.volvoparts.com which
is an online dealer -- there are others, too).
You also need an aluminum crush washer that goes under the oil pan
drain bolt. This should be replaced any time the oil pan drain bolt
is removed. Older volvos used copper; you want the aluminum washer.
Also, the manual transmissions come with synthetic oil from the
factory (in the transmission, not the engine). So we are one up on the
automatics here :)
Finally, bookmark this site:
http://volvospeed.com/bay13.htm
it has common do it yourself service information and is very usefull.
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The maual says 5W30 or 10W30. The key is to get lubrication to everything as soon as possible. I use 5W30 year around in Denver. Lube to the turbo is important.... I would ( and do ) use 5 W 30 all year around.... I've done that with 2 Mercedes, and 1 BMW.. Never a problem..... I also do syn in transmission, and crankcase...... Who knows from here? Thanks...
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posted by
someone claiming to be Ray N.
on
Thu Apr 25 04:38 CST 2002 [ RELATED]
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You can switch any time.
Problems with leaking seals are more common in cars built 20 years ago.
Mobil 1 is a fine motor oil. I switched my wife's 850 to it at 30K miles
and my 98 T5M (yeah, I know you love it!) at 1200 miles. The only one I
have heard any real complaints against is Castrol which has a synthetic
that is not as synthetic as it should be (Mobil has even sued them, but
I think they lost).
Synthetic might churn up some oil deposits so a couple of oil changes
at, say, 3000 miles after you switch could help flush that material out.
This might depend on the milage on the engine.
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Thanks Ray, I'll give it a try soon. How many quarts does it take? Also my engine has 62k miles.
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posted by
someone claiming to be francisira
on
Thu Apr 25 07:33 CST 2002 [ RELATED]
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6.9 if you drain the oil cooler (which you should). youu dont want dino mixing with your syn.
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I did try to drain the oil cooler once and only got very little out. I believe that most of the oil in the oil cooler has drained back to the oil pan when the engine is not running. So, I don't bother to do it again.
--
JJ
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posted by
someone claiming to be Ray N.
on
Thu Apr 25 08:17 CST 2002 [ RELATED]
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Just a note that mixing synthetic with non-synthetic won't really hurt
anything -- they are compatable. Purists would drain the oil cooler
but I never bothered to do it.
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posted by
someone claiming to be francisira
on
Thu Apr 25 04:33 CST 2002 [ RELATED]
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switching over to syn should do your car a lot of good. i would flush it with a good engine flush first (like amsoil). i use mobil one 10-30 and didnt do any of that other stuff. the syn oil will clean out the rest of the gunk your regular oil deposited in there. if you ever develop a leak, it has been there all along. the only reason it's seeping out now is because the syn oil leaves no gunk to plug the leaks.
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