2004, V70, 2.4 NA, 5sp. I have 2 identical.
The problem I have is brake rotors don't really last more than 6 months before
looking like something pulled off the bottom of a lake.
I use corrosion coated rotors and OEM Pagid semi metallic pads. ATE calipers all round.

This happens because the cars are not driven daily and parked outside so any rain/snow etc creates rust spots on the brake surface and it just worsens.

Is there a more aggressive pad that will scrub the rotors "more" than the current semi-metallic pads?

I realize that the rotors won't last as long but the surface is shite after 6 months now so anything more is an improvement.

thanks in advance

if a little mileage doesn't clean up those rotor faces...

o'reilly is still turning rotors
1. dunno if there's enough thickness there to turn down safely
they should tell you up front what the specs are.
2. dunno if turning cost is prohibitive

you must clean the hubs and rotor mating surfaces carefully when mounting
rotors. the kit to do that is not cheap.

bill

I have a 12 X 36" lathe and did a test fit to see if I could take a clean up skim off the rotors. I would need new tooling to reach both sides w/o removing from chuck. I could work on a measurement method to ensure the 2 braking surfaces are parallel after refacing. I may have a kick at that after I go through my disc collection. I haven't seen a disc lathe for a while.
cheers

how about some photos of the rusty discs? are they beyond cleaning up with a little use?

one time my dad turned his front rotors in the driveway by holding his lathe
tool post on the ground with the weight of the jack stand. he used low gear and
it worked. you can check for run-out with a dial indicator and magnetic base.
i don't recall if he locked the steering in position somehow, i'd imagine that
would be step 1. use the dial indicator to true the disc before turning, then lock the steering. maybe a suitable u-bolt for the steering wheel and a length of strapping would do?

the bad news is: any run-out will leave you with brake judder.

bill

Is braking performance compromised or are we just talking about aesthetics?

Brake rotors are cast iron and the working surfaces (in contact with the pads) are always going to be bare, no corrosion inhibiting coating. So there's no way to stop the rust from forming. The surface rust is completely normal after some time, even a day or two in a wet environment.

It should be wiped away almost immediately once the car is driven, regardless of the pad type. If it's not and excessive rust and pitting remains after a drive, suspect that the brakes are not working correctly; that a caliper piston is stuck or slide mechanism is binding.

2004 V70 +manual transmission - that's just about peak-Volvo! (IMO)

Have a good one,
Will
--
XC60 / Odyssey

Would drilled and slotted rotors clean the crud from the pads and allow cleaner rotors when you go for a ride?

Ride the brakes for a quarter mile or so and see if the rotors clean up a bit? If you are only getting 6 months or so, something like that may help. Experiment.

If so, they may perform better for the rest of your trip.

Do the fronts look the same as the rears?

Yep, discs all round look like crap.

why don't you e-mail ATE tech support and see what they have to say?

Ate_classic@continental.com

post back with your findings.

bill

Thanks, never knew about this.

also check zimmermann's website with lots of useful tech info on brakes.

bill