98 v70, 212k miles.
Car stalled at intersection. would not restart. car would crank/turn over but not start like if out of gas. Did not verify spark but called tow truck. waited about 1hr for tow truck to arrive. when i put the key in to move to neutral decided to try one more time. it fired right up like usual. Pretty sure the fuel pump relay is at fault but wish it had stayed dead until i could swap it out. I have seen that they sometimes fail intermittently. when it would not start, i could not hear the pump running but it is really quiet anyhow. relay is original 21 year old 212k mile relay so....

Also continue to get P0442 for evap codes set. Have changed most of the hoses etc. but still continues...

ok, I started the car. it started fine cold. checked fuel pressure. 41lbs prior to starting after key on. started it. fp running about 42lbs. reving it up, it ran between 42 and 44lbs. steady.

let it warm up. blipped the throttle and it stumbled and died. i restarted it, took a few cranks and started rough then idled fine. I blipped the throttle again and it died. Did this a couple of times, fuel pressure always constant at 42-44lbs so i think i can rule out the fuel pressure, pump, and relay. pulled the coil wire from dist and cranked it over...big strong but orange/yellow spark. I would have expected it to be blue. Not sure on this.

also notice new fairly big oil leak somewhere near the cylinder head under the intake manifold. never leaked oil before. pulled the oil cap and it is under slight depression. (no positive pressure).

cranked some more. it would not restart. acted like it wanted to a time or two but would not catch. I sprayed a bit of starting fluid in the intake..did not start but did backfire back through the throttle butterfly.

It seems to be a problem as soon as it reaches normal operating temperature.

Thanks

It does sound like an electrical problem. I was going to say camshaft position sensor but normally that throws a code.

Oil leak - Check your rear camshaft seal.
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

turbolazerNewbie
Members
3
Posted October 4, 2012
if the there is no leaky oil when opening the cps should you replace it if you when you have a leak and just replace the intake seal at the distributor?

great write up. much appreciated for all the tips and the procedure!! my intake seal was super leaky. it fell out when i took the part off behind the rotor. i was having random stalling and power issues and eventually oil dripping on the ground. so far so good! 1998 V70R

if the there is no leaky oil when opening the cps should you replace it? i just did the intake seal behind distributor and not sure if its necessary for any reason to do both.

great write up. much appreciated for all the tips and the procedure!! my intake seal was super leaky. it fell out when i took the part off behind the rotor. i was having random stalling and power issues and eventually oil dripping on the ground. so far so good! 1998 V70R

Archived

The CPS has NO moving parts, nothing to wear out. A good cleaning might be needed if there is a lot of oil leaking from the cam seal. Also, the plug for the CPS can corrode and turn green.
Clean the plug and di-electric Grease works wonders.

My 1995 died in a parking garage. It showed a fault with the CPS. I cleared the codes and the car started and I drove home. Seems that the CPS code only causes engine failure at engine start time or very low rpms. I did have a leaking cam seal at the time.

The 1998 does have a fuel pump relay, it is red.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

Thanks. I have the seals in hand and will replace them this evening but i am not confident this will take care of the running issues. I do need to fix that massive oil leak though so we shall see. I am not getting in CEL light or codes at this time or when stalling etc.

I'll clean up the CPS and connector while it is apart and report back

Ok, thanks everyone; you have all been most helpful. last night i pulled the v70 in the garage and removed the airbox and associated bits. removed the distributor cap, shield and when i unbolted the rotor, the camshaft oil seal fell out of the recess and landed on the transmission. (gee, i wonder why it was leaking :-))
replaced the seal and then cleaned up the rotor and cap [both showing some age on the contacts]. removed the cam position sensor. exh cam oil seal not leaking so i left it alone. cleaned the inside of the cps with electronic cleaner and the multi plug as it was green from oxidation. reassembled all of that. removed the spark plugs and cleaned the all. fairly covered with combustion crud; probably been there for about 70k miles [original volvo oem]. added a qt of oil and took her out for a test drive. Absolutely different running engine with no stutters, idling problems or cutting off. not sure which item cured it or if it was a combination of all but happy now. as much oil as their was around the dist cap, i wonder if it was making a hot oil mist and causing problems inside the cap when the car got hot.

Thanks again

found this old thread elsewhere...seems he was having stalling issues with camshaft seal leak...not sure why they would be related
turbolazerNewbie
Members
3
Posted October 4, 2012
if the there is no leaky oil when opening the cps should you replace it if you when you have a leak and just replace the intake seal at the distributor?

great write up. much appreciated for all the tips and the procedure!! my intake seal was super leaky. it fell out when i took the part off behind the rotor. i was having random stalling and power issues and eventually oil dripping on the ground. so far so good! 1998 V70R

if the there is no leaky oil when opening the cps should you replace it? i just did the intake seal behind distributor and not sure if its necessary for any reason to do both.

great write up. much appreciated for all the tips and the procedure!! my intake seal was super leaky. it fell out when i took the part off behind the rotor. i was having random stalling and power issues and eventually oil dripping on the ground. so far so good! 1998 V70R

Archived

found this on an old forum post. oil leak and random stalling and power issues...not sure why they would be related

turbolazerNewbie
Members
3
Posted October 4, 2012
if the there is no leaky oil when opening the cps should you replace it if you when you have a leak and just replace the intake seal at the distributor?

great write up. much appreciated for all the tips and the procedure!! my intake seal was super leaky. it fell out when i took the part off behind the rotor. i was having random stalling and power issues and eventually oil dripping on the ground. so far so good! 1998 V70R

if the there is no leaky oil when opening the cps should you replace it? i just did the intake seal behind distributor and not sure if its necessary for any reason to do both.

great write up. much appreciated for all the tips and the procedure!! my intake seal was super leaky. it fell out when i took the part off behind the rotor. i was having random stalling and power issues and eventually oil dripping on the ground. so far so good! 1998 V70R

Archived

I get it! There are 2 rear camshaft seals. One behind the cam position sensor and the other under? the distributor.

I replaced the CPS on my 95 850. Saw the camshaft seal behind it but didn't replace it as it wasn't leaking.

Here is my theory: Your rear camshaft seal (exhaust) located behind CPS is leaking on your CPS sensor. So, when the engine is cold there is very little leakage and your engine runs fine. When the engine warms up the seal leaks more and must be affecting the CPS sensor.

Easy job to replace one or both of them - pull off the CPS to check for a leak and you'll see what I mean.
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

sorry not sure why posts are not showing up so made duplicates.

That's why I used to carry a paper clip in the glove box. Now I just carry a spare relay. Yes, when the relay gets hot it will shut off, and yours is over due for replacement. Get a good one, some of the Chinese kick offs are pretty poor.

The p0442 will not cause any drivable issues. But check the "J" hose by the right rear wheel.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

thanks.
BTW, i have one of the early 98s that have the canister and J hoses up behind the driver side wheel arch. Makes it really fun to check all of those hoses.

"...when the relay gets hot it will shut off, and yours is over due for replacement. Get a good one..."

While we're on the subject; where is the location of the fuel pump relay?

(My particular car: 2000 V70 SE N/A, Denso, 286K miles, relay has not been replaced that I know of).

Relay is in the main fuse/relay box in the engine compartment near the windshield on the left side. Need to remove four torx screws to access it.

See pic of my 2000 V70 SE N/A Main Fuse Box schematic. No fuel pump relay.

Three big box relays are located along the bottom. #2 slot is blank; this car has no air pump.

Other possible locations for the fuel pump relay? Volvo p/n: 9434225 according to ipdusa and Tasca Parts for 2000 V70.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=52252