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Hi,
I don’t have one of these cars and I’m barely aware of all the gadgets inside.
A neighbor has a 2010 XC 60 car so it’s similar.
I have read her manual some and know that with the key remotes will need to be around the dash area inside or outside.
You must be in line with the dash from the rear hatch area for them to work as the key allows the car to start too.
I do not think it can start the car on enables it!
My neighbors daughter bought the car used for her mom and the dealer didn’t reset the program back to factory default. It had special things going on inside from the previous owner.
If you have a problem with the battery running down every few days of not driving, have the variations of alarms settings and headlight program checked! Previous owners have things tweaked to their preferences!
The dealer has answer to it.
Maybe the owner remotes are not matching the computer Vin code access coding?
In your case, something could be just disabled?
When she first got the car her garage door opener only work when she was in the garage. After closing the garage she had to park directly in front of the door to get a response, at times. It was a steel door, so she carried the house remote until she get too frustrated! She was 89 then and she’s 91 next month!
A Tough bird! She got the salesman to come out to her house, no less!
He fussed with it and gave up and said he was going to get more information. I Never saw him again!
Since I watched the whole process, in wonderment, from a distance mind you, I later went out to the “You Tube University”
The working peoples Source of Help or Hamper? (:)
I found out that if you have a Craftsman door opener, that some models have a problem with it suffering from radio interferences!
It comes from using newer screw in LED light bulbs in the garage door opener lighting or in the garage itself!
These bulbs have electronics in their base that can emit an interference when on!
If the bulbs are on from previous door usage or if set off by motion within the garage, the interference will be running.
I got a chance to investigate this theory and took the bulbs out and the problem was resolved!
We put in fluorescent or incandescent bulbs and no more problem. She called her salesman and gave him the news.
Ever how that went, or to whom, is another wonderment!
If this is a garage door remote that’s made into the cars ceiling, there you go!
As far as the driver door switches and the door open light alarms, I surmise, that if it’s like the newest 240s with electric windows, it’s most likely the wiring loom in the door hinge area.
It has been bent back and forth too many times as a drivers doors gets that great privilege!
Looms can have stranded copper wires for flexibility over thick copper wire.
Any copper strands can suffer stress fatigued.
The instrument panel or the controller, is not getting continuity to a power or a ground point wire to each.
A door switch may have failed or a broken wire has developed can be the same thing.
With a door closing constantly a bend radius develops stretching the plastic insulation.
With the door open the wires straighten out and their insulation shrinks back and starts holding the strands ends touching together. The Switches work!
Bad news is, Eventually that will STOP too!
Just like the “open door” light that stays ON all the time!
Just hope the window is UP against the weather, when that happens! (:)
You might be able to get a replacement loom with a part number that Volvo mechanical services may have a bulletin on ($).
Or you need to splice in new wire at each end, before the factory connectors, inside of the cars both entry points!
You cut one end and pull new ones through the rubber conduit and you leave a tiny bit more slack where needed.
This way it be good for several more years than the original setup!
Hopefully, this post gets you fixed or down the road towards it!
Phil
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