I have several videos doing the gasket and seal on the drain line for FWD! Have any of the "Brickboard" attempted this without removing the angle drive?

I was able to torque the bolts less than 1/8 turn and will check after 120 mile drive for leakage!

The other question; what else from above could create leakage, I see nothing at the back of the head like a cam seal(s)?
Thanks!

This can be done with the angle drive in place but you will probably save time and energy by removing it! Remove basic stuff, brace, turbo tube and hose plus the heat shield.

I removed both coolant lines the oil feed line was not removed but disconnected for clearance. A 1/4"ratchet and #30 torx with various extensions will remove the drain line but there is a clamp that attaches to the oil line. This required me to work with limited visibility/

The drain line should come out but in my case it was siliconed in place. I attempted to use the Volvo tube seal but the position of the angle drive? prevented it so I used an Oring and silicone. A previous repair still had the Volvo seal in place but in the block.

Oil leak is cured the failed gasket had the compressed thickness of a credit card so my attempt at tightening only made it worse. Should anyone try this a magnet, various mirror, lights will be helpful?

The 2 torx bolts need to be 'snug', not gorilla torqued. 1/8 turn, with equal pressure on both should be plenty.

Wipe the rear exhaust cam carefully, a leak there will easily drip down and appear to come from elsewhere.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new