oops, hit enter by mistake...after SAS system repair, had a bad stumbling issue after disconnecting MAF sensor to remove airbox to find where the pesky black vacuum line on the top of the airbox goes to on the other end...not underneath, as Klaus had suggested...rats...cleaned up MAP connections with cleaner, and seems to have fixed the stumbling issue, except...slight stumble going from idle to higher RPM if I stab the accelerator sharply....during the course of all the parts moving around in the vacuum line 'hunt', broke off the white plastic nipple on the end of the accelerator cable where it emerges from the sheath and runs to the throttle as a bare wire...could the lack of said nipple/whatever it is more properly called , be causing a binding condition...throttle cable original to car, in good shape otherwise..may also be time for a cap and rotor as well, as these cars seem to go through them at a good rate...

thanks again to all who chime in...old age catching up to both me and my ride, and I can't shade tree like I used to...

Tom

Vacuum lines, note #6:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=65002

I have found caps and rotors consistently giving me 100,000 miles.

The cap on the throttle is to keep the dirt out of the cable. It will not cause binding. However, I found that rust forms inside the cable sheath and can cause a 'hard' pedal. The throttle spring is strong enough to close the throttle in any case. Replacing the cable is a royal pain.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

again Klaus, thanks always for your input....thinking I may replace throttle cable anyway, it IS original to car, and likely stretched at least a little..in the 100k I've put on my car, I've replaced cap/rotor 3x...metal surfaces always well pitted...going for the FCP kit, plugs/wires/cap and rotor...spark plug wires original as well, maybe too much resistance built up, causing premature cap/rotor wear...

thanks again KC


Tom