Of course, the retaining bolt must be removed, and the emergency brake must be OFF, before attempting to whack off the old rotor.

I got the job done with a heavy steel hammer. I whacked the old rotor from different directions...perpendicular to the axle, face on towards the hub. You should see some rust dust falling out from these whacks.

Finally, I whacked the exposed backside of the rotor (the sector where the caliper normally resides) while slowly rotating the rotor. After about 10-15 of these whacks, it broke loose.

Before installing the new rotor, remember to spray it with brake cleaner and wipe it off, to remove the anti-oxidative coating.

To fully compress the caliper to make room for the thickness of the new pads, I use a "C" clamp with the old brake pad still attached to the piston. Before doing this step, I withdraw 20 cc of brake fluid from the brake fluid reservoir, as compressing the piston will raise the level in the reservoir -- you don't want it to spill over.

I only use authentic Volvo parts. The new rotors and pads are working great.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.

Obviously, you removed the screw(s) that hold the rotor in place.

I use a two pound sledge and bang all around the hat portion of the rotor.

Heating the hat might help.

If the hat is cast - lift the car up a bit with a bottle jack under the rotor hat and give the hat a great wack with a 10 or 15 pound rock breaking sledge that has one face narrowed to a sort of rounded point. Maybe you can crack the hat.

I have my grandfather's rock hammer, and I can't imagine how he swung it all day.

Well, you can't hit it from the inside. I have an 8lb sledge hammer, solid steel. It came in handy when one of my front rotors froze.

You don't care what it looks like, you have a new one. I first tried with a block of wood and a 1lb hammer, that was futile. After the 2X4 became toothpicks, I used just the hammer. Lots of dimples, no movement. The 8lb worked!
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

"... Whacked it silly with rubber mallet...nothing...."

Unless you're trying to save the rotors, whack them with a SOLID hammer. A rubber mallet doesn't apply the proper "jolt".
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Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)