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changing the timing belt on a 2002 S40

posted by  Volvo From Heck on  Mon Dec 4 09:48 CST 2017
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last visit: Mon Oct 13 20:56 CST 2014
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I am currently changing the timing belt on my 2002 S40 and have run into difficulty with a bolt that secures the cast "bracket" to the right side of the motor. I loosened the one closest to the front of the car. It was very tight and required the use of a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and 6 point socket. It took a lot of force to break loose--once loosened it unscrewed by hand. The next bolt back is partially hidden by one of the two upright studs which then secure the motor mount to the cast "bracket". There is no way to get a socket onto the bolt head with that stud in the way. I broke one of my favorite wrenches - an SK 13mm 6 point box end by hooking a larger box wrench onto the open end of the 13mm. From the way the "rig" snapped when I applied plenty of oomph I thought I'd gotten it. Instead I realized I had broken the box end of the 13mm.
So the question--is it possible to get the upright stud out to clear the way for a socket? Or--what sort of wrench have you used to do this operation? I have a set of 12 point offset box wrenches but the 13mm wants to twist off when enough torque is applied (with use of a "cheater" pipe).
Because I ran into this difficulty just before our planned trip to NC I had to press our trusty 1980 300k mile 245 for the ride. We are still in NC and I want to have a "plan" on our return home. I do have a 1/2 drive Craftsman stud remover but there is very limited room for it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. -- Dave








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    changing the timing belt on a 2002 S40

    uid 5322's pic
    posted by  alschnertz on  Mon Dec 4 20:52 CST 2017
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:32 CST 2014
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    Can't picture this right now and will have to look tomorrow afternoon.

    I do recall some sort of difficulty with that mount when I did the VVT hub on my '01. Just don't remember the particulars at the moment.
    Raising the engine some comes to mind, but not sure.
    Stay tuned...







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    changing the timing belt on a 2002 S40

    posted by  KlausC on  Mon Dec 4 12:06 CST 2017
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:15 CST 2014
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    You cannot remove the stud. PBBlaster won't work because it is a flange nut, but you can try spraying a little around the edges. I assume that the engine has been 'lifted' a centimeter to take the stress off the mount.

    While torque gets most bolts off, you really need an impact to start the bolt moving. Use a good box end wrench and a 16 ounce hammer to strike the handle of the wrench, several times.

    An other method would have me drilling a dimple into the flange at about 9:00, then using a punch and hammer to get the bolt started.
    --
    Keeping it running is better than buying new








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      changing the timing belt on a 2002 S40

      posted by  Volvo From Heck on  Mon Dec 4 12:53 CST 2017
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      last visit: Mon Oct 13 20:56 CST 2014
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      Chris--thanks for responding but the bolt is way to tight to take loose with an open end--and besides--the bolt sits in a recess with a small angled "shelf" above it and very close quarters to either side and below so the jaws of an open end is not likely to be usable in any case. The "shelf" tends to push the wrench off the bolt head leaving just a small window of movement.
      KlausC--thank you as well and because of the "shelf" an offset wrench will likely be the only tool which will work (the only angle available to hang a straight wrench will allow a cheater bar but no room to swing a hammer). I'll have to visit a "real" tool store (luckily one only 20 minutes from home) to see if I can find an offset wrench with a 6 point box end. HF only carries 12 point offsets. Then I'll give the bugger some good whacks as you -- and Art have suggested (in other posts).
      My son Daniel (MINi-Cooper tech here in Winston-Salem) agrees with you -- didn't think the stud would be removable.
      BTW--The motor mount was removed completely with support from underneath. The cast "bracket" has to come off to allow the TB to pass. Will report on progress (or lack of) late next week. thanks guys -- Dave








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        changing the timing belt on a 2002 S40

        posted by  KlausC on  Mon Dec 4 15:14 CST 2017
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        last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:15 CST 2014
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        None of my garbage wrenches are 'flat', they are all offset a bit. Sometimes it is frustrating on a flanged nut. For those rare occasions when I need an impact, I wear a thick glove and hold the box end over the nut as I pound with the BFH.

        It is quite possible that your old wrench had a flaw that you just found :)
        My 13mm looks like it survived WWII!
        --
        Keeping it running is better than buying new








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          changing the timing belt on a 2002 S40

          posted by  Volvo From Heck on  Tue Dec 5 10:11 CST 2017
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          last visit: Mon Oct 13 20:56 CST 2014
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          Chris and KlausC -- thanks for the continued interest in my "problem".
          Like most combination wrenches the box end is (was) slightly angled to the handle part. By "offset" I am referring to the type box wrench that has the boxed ends parallel to the handle part but has a 1/2 inch or so drop from handle to box. That amount gives me clearance to pass the "shelf".
          Once the bolt is cracked loose I will not be able to unscrew it all the way due to the vertical stud--but the 2 remaining bolts are accessible by the 1/2 drive breaker bar and Snap-on impact socket which I used to loosen the first bolt. Once those are removed I'll be able to back out the problem bolt by pulling the cast bracket away from the block in stages thus allowing the bolt to unscrew all the way--it will still be trapped in the bracket by the stud but free from the block.
          I would think it possible there may have been a scratch or nick in the broken wrench--but keep in mind I was applying a lot more pressure than it was designed for. There is just enough room to put a short 3/8 drive socket on the bolt head--but no room to attach a ratchet, breaker bar or extension. thanks again. The saga will continue once home next week. --- Dave








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            changing a 2002 S40 timing belt update

            posted by  Volvo From Heck on  Sun Jan 21 12:19 CST 2018
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            last visit: Mon Oct 13 20:56 CST 2014
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            For those who followed and/or contributed to my question regarding the vertical studs in the intermediate cast bracket between the upper right side motor mount and the head being in the way of removing one of the bolts holding that bracket on. I was only able to get to working on it this week.
            The solution was staring me in the face. The studs stand more than an inch above the installed nut for the motor mount. Nothing a cut-off wheel couldn't handle and with 1/2 inch removed from the stud I could get a proper 1/2 inch drive socket on the bolt head and crack it loose with a breaker bar--no need for any unobtainable 6 point offset wrench. Now I can properly mourn the loss of my broken S-K 13mm 6 point combo wrench :-( -- Dave








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        changing the timing belt on a 2002 S40

        posted by  Chris Mullet on  Mon Dec 4 13:12 CST 2017
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        last visit: Fri Oct 24 09:08 CST 2014
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        Dave,

        It may be a mute point, but what I meant was to cut off the remains of the open end of the wrench so that a cheater will slip onto it. Then put the 6 point box end on the bolt head. If you were able to get the box end on the bolt well enough to fracture the open end jaw, then it sounds as though it's getting plenty of purchase.

        Good luck.
        --
        Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)








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          changing the timing belt on a 2002 S40

          posted by  Volvo From Heck on  Mon Dec 4 14:48 CST 2017
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          last visit: Mon Oct 13 20:56 CST 2014
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          Thanks Chris--but it was the boxed end that split apart. I had the larger box wrench slip over and applying pressure to the open end which is still usable as a "shorty" open end. Broke my heart as well as the wrench which I'd guess I've owned at least 45 years. :-) -- Dave








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            changing the timing belt on a 2002 S40

            posted by  KlausC on  Tue Dec 5 09:59 CST 2017
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            last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:15 CST 2014
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            There is no way a factory would assemble something that required a box end wrench. Everyone on the line uses air guns.

            Are you sure that you cannot slip a 3/8 socket over the 13mm bolt, then put a 2" extension on it?

            I would still use a box wrench and a BFH if the bolt is stuck, rather than just pure torque.

            Good luck.
            --
            Keeping it running is better than buying new








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              changing the timing belt on a 2002 S40

              posted by  Volvo From Heck on  Tue Dec 5 10:20 CST 2017
              Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
              last visit: Mon Oct 13 20:56 CST 2014
              [RELATED]

              KlausC--I could not fit an extension--even a "wobble" type did not work. Thinking about it I may have to make a tool by grinding a groove/slot in the back end of a 6 point socket and then welding a "handle" onto it--then use torque or the smacking with a BFH as you have suggested. -- Dave








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                changing the timing belt on a 2002 S40

                uid 5322's pic
                posted by  alschnertz on  Tue Dec 5 15:50 CST 2017
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                last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:32 CST 2014
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                Thought a photo may help.
                This is my '01.
                I'm not sure which nuts you're having trouble with. These are all easily accessible on mine.







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                  changing the timing belt on a 2002 S40

                  posted by  Volvo From Heck on  Wed Dec 6 08:56 CST 2017
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                  last visit: Mon Oct 13 20:56 CST 2014
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                  Alschnertz--your photo did not show up so I can't point out the problem--only describe it. The cast bracket is attached to the motor by four bolts. Two of them line up parallel to the ground at the top of the bracket. The other two are towards the rear of the bracket lower down and lined up vertically. With the motor mount removed (via the two nuts on studs and one bolt forming a triangle) from the cast bracket leaves the two upper bolts exposed--except that the 2nd one back is partially blocked by the rearmost upright stud.
                  Ooops! your photo has just now appeared and you can clearly see the two studs with nuts and one bolt holding the mount to the cast bracket. Hidden by the mount are the two uppermost bolts that hold the bracket to the motor. From what I can see is the cast bracket has to come off to gain access to the tensioner and idle pulley (as instructed by Mitchell on Demand). -- Dave








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                    update

                    posted by  Volvo From Heck on  Tue Dec 26 10:08 CST 2017
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                    last visit: Mon Oct 13 20:56 CST 2014
                    [RELATED]

                    For those who were interested and posted----We came back home and haven't stopped trying to "catch-up". Now it's just too darned cold outside to work on a car. It sits in the driveway (my "shop") - movable but not truly usable till these 70 year old bones can deal with the weather. Meanwhile -- best wishes for happy and healthy holidays. -- Dave








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                      update

                      uid 5322's pic
                      posted by  alschnertz on  Tue Dec 26 15:36 CST 2017
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                      last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:32 CST 2014
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                      Misery loves company Dave.

                      Did the clutch on my daughter's '13 Focus last Veteran's Day weekend.
                      You may recall temps. were in the teens that weekend. Not pleasant.

                      I'm also getting too old for this when it's cold out.







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            changing the timing belt on a 2002 S40

            posted by  Chris Mullet on  Mon Dec 4 15:31 CST 2017
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            last visit: Fri Oct 24 09:08 CST 2014
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            "...it was the boxed end that split apart...."

            Yep, I guess I need to more closely read the original post.

            It's crazy that the box end split open - not impossible but not expected either.

            About how much room do have between the bolt head and the obstruction? Is there room for the bolt to fully unscrew before it hits the obstruction?
            --
            Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)








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    changing the timing belt on a 2002 S40

    posted by  Chris Mullet on  Mon Dec 4 10:07 CST 2017
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 09:08 CST 2014
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    Since you've already broken the open end of that 13mm wrench, can you just cut off the remains of the open end and slide a cheater pipe onto it?
    --
    Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)







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