Hello All,

I have a 1996 850 GLT wagon (5 speed manual) with nearly 400,000 miles. I purchased it new. About a year ago, the button in the master console switch that operates the driver’s side window started to “bind” or “jam”. What I mean, is you pushed down the button to raise the window and the button did not work. You would hear a “click” and would have to push the button a second time to get the window to rise. As the condition worsened, you would have to push the button several times, because the window would stop, and sometimes start to re-track down. The first time this happened, I just replaced the master console switch and everything was fine. But again over time only the switch that operated the driver’s side window would start to fail again in the same manner. I replaced the console master console switch 3 times over the course of a year. Each time the pattern was the same in terms of failure. Initially the driver’s side button worked fine, but then it would begin to fail by not raising the widow. It would start out intermittently, but become more consistent over time. The problem is always with the button that controls the driver’s door window. The problem never occurs when you are lowering the driver’s side window, only when you are raising it. None of the other buttons for the other windows fail. After replacing the master switch a third time going on the fourth unit, my mechanic checked to make sure the electric motor that raises the window in driver’s door was working properly, it was and he also swapped out the relay unit/switch (It is located in the center console) that the master console switch plugs into with relay unit/switch from my other 1996 850 GLT wagon that does not have a problem with the master console switch. Yet still the problem with the button that raises the
driver’s side window persisted. I am relegated to using only used relay units/switches because Volvo no longer sells them and they are not available from other after market sources. Though, I don’t think the problem is due to relay unit/switch because the problem persisted when I used the relay from my other 1996 850 wagon that was no experiencing any problems.

Does any one have any idea why I am going through so many master console switches? Fortunately all the master console switches I have replaced have been under warranty, so I have only paid for one. Yet, this is not a practical solution to continue and I realize I may find myself stuck with the window in the down position in the middle of a rain storm.

I would appreciate any suggestions or recommendations because this problem has persisted for so long. Thanks to all in advance.

Hugh

While B.B.'s switch won't work, he did bring up a good point about the window guide. Roll the window down about half way, then try to move the glass or slam the door shut. If the bottom of the glass moves or rattles a lot when the door closes, the rear guide for the window is probably broken and needs to be replaced.

Replacement is not difficult, I can help you through it. A broken guide will cause the motor to overheat, along with the large fuse, and make the glass stop moving or even reverse direction.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-window-regulator-rail-front-left-850-s70-v70-9187646
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

Klaus and B.B.,

I want to express my thanks to you both. This window problem, and I don’t mean to sound over the top, has become a “nightmare”. I have put so much time and effort in trying to get it fixed. I really like my ’96 850 / 5 speed wagon, and with it approaching nearly 400K miles, I think: “Hooray for me!”. Yet, always wondering when the window will stop working is nerve wracking and detracts from the driving pleasure of this, my first Volvo. Also, my oldest daughter is thinking of using this car as her first car, post college, out of state, and I don’t want her to get stuck with a driver’s side window that doesn’t work properly. So again, thank you for your suggestions and help. Klaus, thank you too for your offer to help me through the installation of the rear guide. If I get “stuck” I will take you up on it.

Hugh

The new guide is drilled for a rivet to secure it to the door. The old guide has a T25. I don't like rivets, so I reuse the T25.

After the window is raised to the top and the door panel is removed (don't forget the black plastic phillips screw in the bottom right corner), take out the failed guide. It should have fallen down.

Remove the T25 that holds the guide to the door, but save the piece of metal that the T25 screws into. You may need to hold on to it while the screw is being removed.

Install the new guide. Use a wire or punch to line up the hole in the door and the guide. Carefully put the saved piece of metal over the punch or wire and hold the metal in place as you remove the punch or wire. Thread the T25 through the hole and slowly turn it to catch the piece of metal. The metal will not turn on the new guide and you can torque it down nice and snug.

Plug in the door panel and test your work!

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Keeping it running is better than buying new

Klaus,

Thank you for the “road map” in how to replace the window guard. Your assistance underscores the value of the Brickboard community. With your help this “long term headache” will hopefully be coming to an end.

My red 850 is in the auto body shop this week getting a rear bumper repainted. When I get it back I will follow your instructions. When the “dust settles” on this problem, I will post the outcome of my long term struggle driver’s side window. Maybe it will serve as guide to others.

Thanks!

Hugh

Hi Hugh,

Check out this link for a new switch:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Volvo-Window-Switch-Front-1347045-240-244-245-740-745-760-850-940-960/122645078556?epid=189055722&hash=item1c8e37621c:g:iuMAAOSwtjxZk1a3&vxp=mtr

Ebay has complete used switch modules for about $30 shipped.
Old switches and relays are good for temporary repair since they have unknown
mileage/wear.

There is something else about the windows, do you raise and lower two or more at a time, and/or run the windows with the engine off?
If so there will be some extra voltage drop, which may increase the current flow through the switches. Do you hear the windows groaning and struggling when going up? The motors run better with 14VDC than 12.6

Maybe there's a bind in the window, raising the current flow? There's a guide track for the rear edge of the drivers window that's famous for breaking loose.
Make sure that the drivers window goes all the way up.