Recently I had an alternator failure in our '97 855. I got the "every light in the dashboard either lit or glowing", intermittently, for about 15 miles on a trip home and parked the car. Fortunately it didn't strand us. I removed the alternator and had it rebuilt. The car was fine for two days and then I got a check engine light with a code indicating that the voltage regulator was bad. Car was running fine, all functions normal, but when I opened the hood it seemed to smell like insulation, and the positive battery cable was very hot. Shop that did the rebuild confirmed that the new regulator/brush pack was bad. I replaced it. Now the cruise control doesn't work! Every other function is fine. Pump is working. I have not taken the dash apart to check pedal switches and all that. Seems very odd that the cruise would die after the over-voltage situation. Before I start tearing things apart, has anyone experienced anything similar? I'm hoping I didn't fry something in the dash or the ECU. Thanks, Dave

Nothing so far. MityVac confirms that the vacuum part of the system is fine, with the new switch on the pedal. Pull the pedal right down to the floor. I think perhaps the over-voltage from the bad alternator may have fried the module, so that will be next. Doesn't seem like the stalk switches are problematic.

Here's the update. Pulled the battery tray and the pump and bench tested it. Seems identical in "pull" to several others I have. Plugged it back in and got power run to it. Under the dash, found the brake pedal switch snapped and not in place. Bypassed it (ordered replacement). Pump will move the pedal via the diaphragm, but not very much. The system has been weak for about a year now. That is, on engagement it seems to have trouble holding on, and accelerating via the cruise is very slow. If there's a leak, I cannot hear it. Hose at the pump is fine for as far as I can trace it easily. I cannot hear the diaphragm leaking either, but I'm thinking that must be it. Just as another aside, a few months ago I finally took apart the throttle return spring and moved it around to lower the tension (after 20 years complaining). Never understood why it seems all the NA cars have such a heavy pedal and the turbos don't.

I just found a replacement switch at the pick&pull. Be careful when replacing the switch, the brake light switch does get in the way.

My 1998 developed a problem with the CC being very slow to engage and unable to maintain speed on hills. The solution was to replace the throttle cable. It was binding at the firewall area.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

Bought a brand new switch and installed it, as my old one was broken. Cable is nice and free. In fact some months ago, after suffering with the ridiculously stiff pedals the NA cars all seem to have, I learned there are two "settings" on the spool. Now the pedal is as easy to depress as the wife's turbo car's pedal is. Point is, no binding. Checked vacuum from the pump end and everything is perfect. Couple of people have told me it's likely the ABS module. Apparently the signal starts there. Mine is rebuilt, from many years ago. I have no way to check the signal at the base of the module anymore. Pretty sure at this point that the over-voltage issue from the alternator damaged something, as mechanically everything has been verified to be in working order. Guess maybe I'll obtain and try one more ECU first, but doubt this second one I got is bad too.

If you unplug the vacuum line at the pump and apply vacuum, the throttle should move even with the engine off. That's how I verified that I had no leaks in my 1998.

I doubt that the ECU is bad.

Is it possible that the switch at the stalk died?

Replacing the ABS module could be a solution if it was fried from the over voltage. But even that is a stretch. Too bad you can not check the codes for the CC.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

Check the easy stuff first.

I'd check for OBD codes for openers.

Also check the vacuum system for leaks,
Rubber goes bad with old age.

Bill

Check under the battery. There is a vacuum line in that area that can become crimped and needs to be repositioned.