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Still hunting coolant leak do reservoirs go bad V50

Still hunting my coolant leak. Not a big leak and I thought it was fixed with a new Volvo OEM cap.

In mid September I installed a new in the bag Volvo cap and went on vacation. Drove about 500 miles and some of it was in stop and go traffic.

Arrived home and the coolant level was right on the mark.

Today I was under the hood and saw that the coolant level is down to min. What? I have a great nose for smelling coolant but never smell any that is leaking in the engine. Although the blue may not have the same smell. I can walk by a car and smell a coolant leak.

So I was just out in the dark with a flashlight hoping to spot something out of the ordinary. I did see a small bit of liquid on the firewall side at the top lip of the reservoir.

Now I am wondering about the reservoir. One thing I have noticed is that there is never any pressure build up. I can remove the cap anytime without worry of coolant flying out. So I am starting to think that the reservoir has a leak and never allows the system to pressurize.

No overheating of the car, car runs great, etc.

Do the reservoirs on these cars have a history of going bad? If so is there a way to test?

Looking at my maintenance sheet I do see that the first I noticed a coolant problem was two months after a shop installed the top motor mount. Could they have nicked something?








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    Still hunting coolant leak do reservoirs go bad V50

    The plastic can crack, usually with age. But if the mechanics had to move it out of the way, the plastic nipple on the bottom could have been cracked or even the hose bent and cracked. Use a paper towel and wipe all around looking for blue dye, best when the coolant is very hot.

    No pressure is not a good thing.
    --
    Keeping it running is better than buying new








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      Still hunting coolant leak do reservoirs go bad V50

      I do worry about the no pressure. It did start me wondering how systems work that only have a recovery tank, no pressure involved just a plastic cap that you pull off to fill the coolant tank.

      Do you know the difference and why there is a difference?

      I know that before buying a new cap I could find coolant on top of the tank and coolant spray on the front engine mount. SO I guess there are times that pressure builds up.

      The amount of coolant that disappears doesn't seem to be a constant loss and when it happens it is minimal.

      I'll get a new tank and see what happens.








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        Still hunting coolant leak do reservoirs go bad V50

        I wondered about that on my 1967 120. When the pressure exceeded the the radiator cap, it released coolant to the overflow bottle. Then, when the engine cooled, the reduced pressure caused the coolant in the overflow to be sucked back to the radiator at engine start. Very similar to the modern cars with the pressure cap on the overflow bottle.
        --
        Keeping it running is better than buying new








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    Still hunting coolant leak do reservoirs go bad V50

    FWIW, I had to replace my recovery tank on the '95 854T when it developed a leak at the bottom hose connection.








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      Still hunting coolant leak do reservoirs go bad V50

      I have the same prob, but slower leak, replaced cap, and did heater core job, carpet under pedals has been dry. On reading other sites, they mention points at radiator connection, and adding indicator dye for viewing with blacklight. Anyone ever try this? I haven't looked up where it's for sale yet. Interested in finding out what folks come up with. How much are the tanks? Seems like a good tree to bark if cheap enough. THX








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        Still hunting coolant leak do reservoirs go bad V50

        I have found nothing cheaper/better than a clean paper towel. Heat up the engine until the thermostat opens and the radiator fan comes on, then turn the engine off and wipe suspected areas with the paper towel. Likely suspects: pressure cap, bottom connection of the overflow bottle, right side of the radiator are the easiest to check. Followed by the heater core, firewall connectors, turbo coolant lines. Last is a compression check.

        Autozone sells the dye. You need to supply the UV light.
        --
        Keeping it running is better than buying new







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