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Using loctite on a stripped screw

posted by  KlausC on  Thu Jun 9 11:23 CST 2016
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last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:15 CST 2014
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I changed my distributor cap and rotor. The bottom screw for the cap came off too easily, hmmm, so when I put the 3 screws back on with the new cap, the bottom screw wouldn't tighten. Darn, darn.

This is not a good place to heliarc the aluminum head. So, my question is this: could I use a dab of red loctite to keep the screw from backing out? The other two screws should be enough to keep the cap tight.

Thanks,

Klaus

--
Keeping it running is better than buying new








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    Using loctite on a stripped screw

    posted by  james_a_sousa on  Thu Jun 9 19:00 CST 2016
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    last visit: Thu Oct 23 18:51 CST 2014
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    I have had luck with a piece of copper wire that runs down the hole and long enough to hang outside the piece to be fastened. The size depends on how loose the screw is.

    Be careful with loctite - there are several grades of holding power.

    When I worked on microwave switches and limiters for airplane radar systems, we had to test the devices from 120 degrees F to -40 degrees in a special oven that could do that drop in one minute - to simulate a fighter going from the desert to altitude.

    We had to use Loctite, but had to try many grades to allow us to repair limiters that failed the test.

    The screws that were held with regular Loctite had to be blasted out with a special welder.

    Out of the box - you could take an extra screw, cut its head off and epoxy it upside down in the hole, making it into a stud - put a nut on the threaded top.








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      Using loctite on a stripped screw

      posted by  KlausC on  Fri Jun 10 09:45 CST 2016
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      last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:15 CST 2014
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      "Out of the box - you could take an extra screw, cut its head off and epoxy it upside down in the hole, making it into a stud - put a nut on the threaded top. "

      I like your thinking! All I need to do now is find an extra screw. I wonder how much torque could be handled with the epoxy and the polished screw end?

      Did I mention that the engine runs quite well with just 2 screws?
      --
      Keeping it running is better than buying new








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        Using loctite on a stripped screw

        posted by  james_a_sousa on  Fri Jun 10 15:04 CST 2016
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        last visit: Thu Oct 23 18:51 CST 2014
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        You could rough the screw up a bit and grind a small flat on it to get a better hold.

        Or - flatten the end a bit with a hammer so that it is a tight fit on the hole.3

        I know how hard the screws are to work with - I used a socket on one screw, a socket and extension on another, and a small box wrench on the third when I worked on our 740s.







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    Using loctite on a stripped screw

    posted by  riverbend on  Thu Jun 9 18:55 CST 2016
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    last visit: Wed Oct 22 15:29 CST 2014
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    Hi Klaus,

    Search for loctite form-a-thread. I have used it on the timing chain tensioner for a Honda motorcycle. It worked fine until I had the motor out and installed a helicoil. If the hole is blind, why not use a helicoil ? What size is the thread ? I have a few on hand.

    Greg







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      Using loctite on a stripped screw

      posted by  KlausC on  Sat Jun 18 14:13 CST 2016
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      last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:15 CST 2014
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      I may try copper strands first: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=soOvDuwfnQA

      The Loctite is also a very good idea for a slightly better repair.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUI6GMkTOjU

      I will look for the Loctite kit at the local auto parts store or ACE hardware. If I don't find it, then some very long strands of copper wire. The hole is about 1.5 inches deep before the threads start.

      Currently, the engine still runs great...

      --
      Keeping it running is better than buying new








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    Using a small piece of copper sheet/piece

    posted by  Swedish Baklava on  Thu Jun 9 13:19 CST 2016
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 06:40 CST 2014
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    Hi Klaus,

    I have never done it but it's just a thought. What if you put a small copper piece and wedge it against it.

    I am sorry to hear. Good luck.








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      Changing out the screw will not work

      posted by  KlausC on  Thu Jun 9 18:32 CST 2016
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      This screw has a 1 inch set of screws followed by 2 inches of smooth to the screw head. The screw twists through the rotor cap so it doesn't get separated from the cap.

      I am a bit squeamish about putting copper or aluminum strips in the head and then trying to force the screw into the left over space.

      I cannot bore it out to the next size because then I would also have to bore out the rotor cap. Besides, not having room to work with a drill at a 90 degree angle.

      The car has 180K actual miles, so I guess this is its 3rd cap and rotor. The second rotor didn't get damaged, and the car still runs...
      --
      Keeping it running is better than buying new








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        right angle drill accessory

        posted by  B.B. on  Fri Jun 10 14:56 CST 2016
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        last visit: Mon Oct 6 13:15 CST 2014
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        Here's a right angle tool that can hold drill bits
        https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Attachment-Tight-Fit-00110/dp/B0039Q1FH4

        Something like this looks workable to help get a Heli-coil installed.







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        Changing out the screw will not work

        posted by  B.B. on  Thu Jun 9 19:39 CST 2016
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        last visit: Mon Oct 6 13:15 CST 2014
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        I like James idea about the Heli-Coil. It's a high quality fix.
        what size thread is it, and how much clearance to get a drill in there?
        Maybe it's do-able?

        Look here at the wide variety of Heli-Coil kits available.

        http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Heli-Coil+Inserts/N2378/C1986.oap?categoryRedirect=N2378&page=3&results=20&sortBy=1

        Bill








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          Changing out the screw will not work

          posted by  riverbend on  Fri Jun 10 17:32 CST 2016
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          last visit: Wed Oct 22 15:29 CST 2014
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          I'm guessing that it is a tiny screw. On the small sizes you only need to run the tap in to make the threads forthe insert. Otherwise a drill bit in a pin vise would probably work.

          If it runs fine with two hold down screws...

          Greg







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            Changing out the screw will not work

            posted by  KlausC on  Sat Jun 11 13:27 CST 2016
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            last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:15 CST 2014
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            3 screws hold down the cap, 10 - 2 - 5 o'clock positions. The first two are easy to reach, the 5 o'clock is the problem child. If I remove the intercooler pipe and the entire air box, I might be able to get a drill on the 8mm (head size) screw. I could put a 1 foot level on the side of the drill to make sure I was flat.

            Then, again, I do have some adhesive backed aluminum foil. I could cut some 1 inch strips and insert them into the hole and try my luck??? The screws have a flat blade for a screwdriver, so there is only supposed to be minimal torque.

            The cap I removed from the junkyard car took a lot of strength to break loose.
            --
            Keeping it running is better than buying new








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              Changing out the screw will not work

              posted by  riverbend on  Sat Jun 11 15:13 CST 2016
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              last visit: Wed Oct 22 15:29 CST 2014
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              I think you are supposed to pull the motor out to get to that one...

              An 8mm head indicates a 5mm thread, ~0.2". Does that sound right ?

              There is a fine thread option, but in aluminum they should have used a coarse thread, so the pitch should be 0.8mm. You can eyeball it against a ruler. The fine pitch is 0.5mm.

              The drill size for an M5 helicoil is 5.2mm (or 13/64"). The amount of material to remove is 0.004" (hole size increases by 8 thou.). The drill will follow the existing hole once it gets started, so no need for a level. I would be tempted to try screwing the drill in by hand with a pin vice or some other sort of collet to get a grip on it.

              I don't have any inserts that small.

              Greg







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      Using a small piece of copper sheet/piece

      posted by  Chris Mullet on  Thu Jun 9 14:49 CST 2016
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      last visit: Fri Oct 24 09:08 CST 2014
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      Or roll up a small piece of aluminum foil - not too many wraps - and drop it in the hole. Then screw the screw into it. Make sure all of the old stripped-out aluminum is cleaned out of the screw threads before screwing it down into the foil-lined hole. The foil should be soft enough for the screw to dig new threads into it.

      Another option is to drill and tap the hole out to the next screw size, but I think that would be more of a last resort.
      --
      Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)








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    Using loctite on a stripped screw

    posted by  someone claiming to be speedy on  Thu Jun 9 13:08 CST 2016 [RELATED]

    Try that and recheck it after a few days other option is to try a smaller
    screw to see if it catches







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