Let me try this again.

I posted last April about a my 2000 S40 just shutting down whilst driving.

The Volvo dealership I bought it from had it for well over a week before determining it was an electrical issue with the ignition; they fixed it.

Today, it happened again...while driving - complete electrical and engine failure.

I again am having it towed to the dealer.

Has anyone else experienced this? I'm terrified. I could be killed, my baby could be killed. When the car does this it's instantaneous - it literally stops in it's tracks. No lights, cannot put into neutral; if this happened when crossing the busy highway I have to cross, I would have no time to get my baby out if her car seat and no one would see us at night.

What could be causing this to happen again?????? Please help!! I'm so scared.

My son-in-law is a Subary tech - he just won recognition from Subaru for finding a solution to a problem - WITH A CAR THAT DIES!

The car showed no symptoms, then, as he drove it, it died on the highway.

Of course, after the car was unloaded, it started right up.

While he awaited the tow truck, he checked what worked, and what did not.

The non-working stuff was all were related to having the key turned on.

While the car was running, he tapped the main fuse block - the car died!

He removed the fuse block and found a broken connector pin on the back of the block - it could not be repaired, and the entire main wiring harness had to be replaced.

Maybe the techs trying to repair your car ought to briskly tap the various fuse blocks and main connectors while the engine runs.

Hey all, so it was never determined what was causing the s40 to power down while driving. The dealership finally conceded that it was a lemon, and I traded it in for a 2006 V70.

This won't help your car, but it may help you.

First, pick up a big, battery powered light that has a flashing red light with a magnetic base so you can open the door and stick it on the roof if your car fails again - most people might think that you are a police car and give you a wide berth.

Look in your service book - what dealers have worked on the car?

Get a repair history from each - they should either be able to email it to you or send it to your dealer.

Your dealer may be able to help you with this. THEIR history should show information on recall and warranty repairs wether they did them or not.

Has someone else had this problem with this car, and what was done to fix it?

If it has happened before, maybe Volvo will help you.

Update: the car is STILL AT THE SHOP and they STILL CAN"T GET IT TO DUPLICATE.

They won't even test the CEM to see if it's faulty. I'm SO irritated.

Talk to the shop forman/supervisor and ask him to call the Volvo regional rep to take a look.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

This is an electrical issue. Either a dead battery, or ground to engine/frame problem. The ignition switch failing a 2nd time is questionable. Is the car parked outside in the rain?

Time to get a different car! It is hard to trust this one. Please report it to Volvo regional office, or use email http://volvo.custhelp.com/app/FormFramed

And go to http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchResults?prodType=V&searchType=PROD&targetCategory=A&searchCriteria.model=S40&stats=203019%2C1%2C2%2C131%2C53%2CS40&makeStats=&jsonBaseURL=%2Fdownloads%2Ffolders%2F&searchCriteria.model_yr=2000&searchCriteria.make=VOLVO&searchCriteria.prod_ids=203019





Scroll down to #6 below:

http://www.carcomplaints.com/Volvo/S40/2006/electrical/electrical_system.shtml

For those that don't want to go farther, here is the text of #6:

2006 Volvo S40, fwd T5: My wife was driving on the interstate around midnight going approx. 75-80 mph when all of a sudden her car shut off. When I say shut off I mean the headlights, dome lights, engine....anything that was electrical completely shut off. This would include the steering wheel locking up. So imagine driving in the middle of the night at 80 mph with traffic around you and you're lights going out, steering wheel locking and having no way to control the vehicle. To me this sounds like a 80 mph invisible torpedo that could have killed a few people including my wife. I had the vehicle towed to the nearest dealership which was a Ford dealership and the next morning they diagnosed it as a dead battery, which they were correct. Now I'm no rocket surgeon by any means but to me this sounds like a flaw in the safety dept. Somewhere. Something as trivial as a dead battery would cause a catastrophic failure like that? I think it's something that needs to be brought to the attention of the manufacturer and some sort of quality control as well.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new

Volvo called with a status update and said they replaced the spark plugs?!?!!??! I'm a girl but ism not stupid. It's not spark plugs!!! They said it's starting fine: that's great; it started fine again for me, too. Problem is it spontaneously shuts down while driving.

I am so mad...!!!!

I don't believe that the 2000 S40 had a PEM. The 2004 S60 probably has one and they are not water/salt proof. That would cause the fuel pump to stop but not all of the electrical systems would fail.

A bad ground wire or a failing battery could cause everything to come to a complete halt. If you get the S40 running again, stop by an autoparts store and have them check the alternator and battery.

Spark plugs have nothing to do with it. I don't know what city you live near so I can't suggest an alternative repair shop.

Remember, the moon roofs tend to leak in the early S40s and water winds up on the floor, under the carpet, and can short out wiring connectors.

The best/cheapest Volvo I can find around here is this one:

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/cto/5425794421.html

It's an 05 XC90 with 5 cyl, 175K miles, around $4,000 and maintenance history

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Keeping it running is better than buying new

The S40 is running just fine now - that is the problem - this shutting down happens sporadically and the shop can't duplicate the problem. The dealership service shop says that the battery and alternator are testing fine. Interestingly, it even tested fine when the car shut down the other day - but guy that helped me decided to try to jump it anyway, and then it started up!! Doesn't make any sense to me.

We live near Everett, WA. Our dealership in is Lynnwood (Sandberg Volvo).

I have hear the moon roofs leak - however, I park in a garage at home and at work, so the car is only exposed to the elements (rain) while driving.

How old is the battery? With age, over 5 years, deposits can form inside and short out a cell. Or the deposits can move if you hit a bump and cause a temporary short to one or more cells, a 'dead' battery will cause immediate electrical failure and engine shutdown.

Inspect the ends of the battery. I just replaced mine because the sides bulged out. The battery charge was good, but failure was going to bite me as soon as I was on a country road far from home.

Don't take the dealer's word on a good alternator, get a second opinion at an autoparts store. That's a freebee.

Have hubby follow the two ground wires from the battery, one goes to the block and the other goes to the left front fender. If the screws holding the wires down look rusty, remove the screw and clean the attachment point (shiny metal).


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Keeping it running is better than buying new

It's kept in a dry garage. I'm trying to work with the dealership that I bought it from and that 'repaired' it last time. We had to get a loan for the stupid car - so frustrating. We need them to buy it back so we can get another one.

I will report this to Volvo and the NHSTA.

The post that you shared it EXACTLY what happened with me. To a T.

I'm shocked that there isn't a recall on this. Although there is one for apparently the same thing on a later model.

Manufacturer's Report Date:
February 20, 2008

NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number:
08V033000

NHTSA Action Number:
N/A

Component:
FUEL SYSTEM, GASOLINE:DELIVERY:FUEL PUMP

Potential Number of Units Affected:
23,000

Summary:
ON CERTAIN VEHICLES SOLD IN OR CURRENTLY REGISTERED IN THE STATES OF CONNECTICUT, DELAWARE, ILLINOIS, INDIANA, IOWA, MAINE, MARYLAND, MASSACHUSETTS, MICHIGAN, MINNESOTA, MISSOURI, NEW HAMPSHIRE, NEW JERSEY, NEW YORK, OHIO, PENNSYLVANIA, RHODE ISLAND, VERMONT, WEST VIRGINIA, WISCONSIN, AND THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, REOCCURRING, LONG-TERM EXPOSURE TO CERTAIN ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS SUCH AS SALTY-WET CONDITIONS, IT IS POSSIBLE FOR THE PUMP ELECTRONIC MODULE (PEM) TO BECOME CORRODED INTERNALLY. THIS CAN CAUSE A FAULTY SIGNAL TO THE FUEL PUMP, RESULTING IN LOW OR NO FUEL PRESSURE TO THE ENGINE.

Consequence:
IF THIS OCCURS, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT MAY ILLUMINATE. IN SOME CASES, THE VEHICLE MAY FAIL TO START OR MAY STALL, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.

I had a problem like that years ago finally resolved to be a bad connection of the
12VDC at a firewall connector to the cabin. Your situation requires that you
note carefully what things are, and are not, working when the car quits.

Start by servicing the battery cables and grounds in the engine compartment.
If the starter spins fast without lugging and growling then pay particular attention to the piggy back red +DC wires on the battery, and the 30 Amp cable to
the ignition switch, Look for loose or corroded connections where the cables
are crimped into the terminal ends.

It's hard to troubleshoot flaky battery cables, since they can test out OK with
low current, but suddenly quit under load.

Loss of a critical ground path to the intake manifold could disable the injectors
and leave everything else on, That's why you want to note in detail exactly
what quits and what doesn't, to aid diagnosis.

Bill

Literally EVERYTHING quits working - instantly. No lights, no engine power, no clicking when I turn the key....

It's very scary.

Then you have a problem with your 12VDC going away.
Carefully inspect your battery + and ground cables and connections for openers.