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On our new to us, 2007 V50 the key is supposed to be turned to position III, released and the started will engage. It is supposed to automatically crank for X seconds after releasing the key.
Sometimes it doesn't catch and you must try again and sometimes hold in position III longer than mentioned in the book.
A sign of a dying relay or just the way it works?
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The starting circuit is very complex and the wiring diagram shows a number of
black boxes. You need the Volvo theory writeup for the circuit which is somewhere, but not in the wiring diagram.
My best guess is the Ignition switch module since it has several black boxes
indicated, maybe one is the key delay function? The ignition sw module depending on your model V50 is almost $200 at the first place I checked.
There's a Keyless module KVM under the drivers seat if it's an auto tranny
or contact immobilizer if it's a stick shift , There's an engine control module
special to various model cars and a tranny control Module Ach!!!!
It's not clear where the delay function lives.
Unless you can find a donor car in a boneyard, this is not the kind of problem
that you throw parts at. It can get increasingly ugly for your wallet.
$200 for an ignition switch! I need an airsick bag.
I'll ask my local factory trained Volvo Maven what he thinks.
Bill
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Thank you.
The engineers seem to like to make complex systems to start cars.
My son has a Saturn L200 and one day it wouldn't start. Same condition, you turn the key to position III and it does nothing. I checked all voltage, starter, etc. and it was all in good condition.
It is apparently a switch module that is also very expensive and to replace you need to pull the air bag, steering wheel, part of the column and then you get to replace the $200 item.
So the kid is paying his own way through college so I hooked up a remote switch to the starter solenoid. He has to turn the key to position II, open the hood and press the button....car starts. It works for a kid in college that has minimal funds for a $200 switch.
I appreciate that you can ask your local factory trained Volvo Maven what he thinks.
Car has 90,000 miles on it and is in pristine shape.
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Hi __?___.
You were pretty creative with the starter switch in that other car,
which reminds me that 740's have a chronic intermittent no start condition
that you can do an easy end run by shorting the starter lugs with a big screw
driver, and needing a screwdriver and flashlight at night. The reason it's so
hard to find the culprit is that the SOB can go months before acting up again.
You put a switch, a more gentlemanly solution than mine.
I just discussed your problem with my Volvo maven, and he says the first
thing you do is get the car scanned for codes with a really good scanner.
You might need to visit Volvo or a quality Indy for this? That makes sense,
and if it points to the culprit, then scout the boneyards or Ebay.
He said you could try Auto Zone etc but doesn't know if those scanners will cut it or not. You could start with a free check at Auto Zone with the idea that it may or may not be 100% reliable. Perhaps others will chime in on scanners?
Happy motoring, Bill
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Thanks.
I have a fairly decent scanner that cost me $200. It isn't the scanners that cost thousands but it has always found codes. I'll give it a try.
Yep the big screw driver works and at night the sparks look good.
I'll let ya know if the scan tool finds any codes.
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You may not have the right scanner. try autozone, dunno if the dealer does free scanning? I was warned that the fancy scanners are better.
My gut says the ignition sw module but better do more checking or search for the
circuit theory of operation for the starter circuit. It must be out there, or maybe it's dealer only info. Can they do that? Would they do that?
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You ask .... Would they do that? I believe that in a heartbeat a dealer would keep such information from the owners.
Ign SW module sounds like an expensive dealer only part.
I'm going to also check the connections in the video link that was provided by KlausC
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Check out the connectors for sure. Maybe you'll solve the problem. But the scanner issue is fuzzy to me. Do you need a proprietary Volvo scanner? Would a proprietary scanner indicate a missing signal to the CEM?
Manufacturers are doing a tightrope act when they attempt to obstruct independent repairs of their cars. Then if you extrapolate a little,
it makes sense that they might arrange for proprietary scanners to diagnose their
systems. I wonder what support the after market service industry has for techs.
Do the scanner manufacturers claim that their scanners are as good as the factory scanners? How can they be sure with proprietary systems?
Bill
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First thing that comes to mind is battery voltage, is it at least 12V? Are there any messages in the display, like immobilizer? Is the radio on, draining the battery even farther?
You might want to take the car to an autoparts store and have them check the battery and alternater output.
Yes, the key module could be at fault. Or, it could be a bad CEM connection.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new
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Yes it is like a low voltage situation and that is why ----
Last week the first thing I checked was the battery and it was withing spec. Then I checked the charging with engine running and (if I remember) it was 14.4.
It is also like there would be corrosion on the cables and that is why nothing is energized but the cables are bright and clean.
All the body ground points look in great shape. The entire engine bay is immaculate.
CEM? Computer Engine Management?
We have two keys and both act the same way.
Most of the time the issue never appears.
It is my wife's commute car and I'm trying to figure out if it is something in failure mode or just one of those odd things that we need to get accustomed to.
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This is for an S40, but essentially the same as yours. Hit any hard pot holes lately?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHyE8Vm1QIA
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new
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If you are still following this thread I have a question.
I watched the video but my 2007 V50 seems to have a different CEM. When he is messing with the left side connector, closest to the firewall..... well I don't have one there. I have the two computer like connectors that you can see running vertically, side by side but that is it. I have the one on the right that he touches.
The computer like connectors have electrical ties on each one at the connector. Makes me go hm...why? It doesn't seem factory or maybe if is but I have no reference.
Going to clean out the sunroof drains just in case there has been water ingress. I know on the S60 I need to be diligent with keeping those drains cleaned out or we'll get water on the mats.
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I really hate to say this, but if the no starter can be recreated, perhaps a visit to the dealer. Let him scan the components while doing a no start. It may be software. If it is a computer, tell him you want to think it over for a while and see if there are any outstanding repair places.
My OTHER car has a start button, which I can pop out and use the key fob to turn the ignition switch. Volvo really messed up with that design, there needs to be back up.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new
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Yesterday I started the car 15 times and it didn't do it. It is early morning 30F outside and tried today - the car had no problem.
I did fiddle with the CEM connectors a bit, pressing on them. Maybe there is a reason someone added those electrical ties? I've never before seen a car that has electrical ties associated with computer board connectors.
They added unneeded complexity and the more complex a system the greater the problem.
"The vehicle is equipped with an autostart function that makes it possible to start the engine without holding the start control in position III. Turn the start control to position III and release it. The starter motor will then operate automatically (for up to ten seconds) until the engine starts. "
Did the engineers think it is too burdensome to hold the key in the start position? SO they added a timed relay or whatever that will crank for up to 10 seconds without me holding the key?
I do most all the work to my cars and auto engineers are often not high on my list as people with common sense.
Whoever owned this car before us used the dealer for most repairs. It even has a Volvo branded battery. Since there are only a very few battery manufacturers anymore, the brand name badges are just window dressing. Paid a few more dollars for that badge on the battery. In the USA I think we are down to three manufacturers. I think they are Delphi, Exide and Johnson Controls.
I really like the V50 and I like driving it more than our 2002 S60.
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Well I do live in an area of the country that wins the award from truckers as having terrible roads. I don't remember hitting any egregious pot holes.
I'll check that connector just to be sure.
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That's an interesting system.
I'm just guessing, but if the first start attempt fails, then maybe it has to wait until the starter completely winds down to a stop before it will attempt again. That way it's not trying to engage a spinning starter sprocket, resulting in a "crunch". Like I say though, I'm just guessing.
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Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (fixed the ignition - now back to the brakes again)
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The starter doesn't engage at all so there wouldn't be anything to crunch. It is as though no power to energize the starter.
It always starts and isn't that big of a problem but it is disconcerting because in the back of my mind I am thinking will there be a time that it doesn't start.
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