posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Thu Oct 1 16:01 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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Driving home from work and get about 1/2 way home. driving at 55mph no issues, then the tach drops to zero, the car starts to buck and when I get to a stop light and get ready to go on green the car fails to take off normally. Had to drop car into second gear and work its way back to 'drive'. During the driving the car kept on learching at different speeds and situations.
I replace the rear speed sensor on the tranny last September. I just had tranny work to repair a leak in which three O-rings were replaced between the tranny and bevel gear.
Any clues?
Thanks.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Sat Oct 3 12:01 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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Wondering if it is an electrical issue again. The car is acting very strange again.
I replaced the speed sensor but that did not remedy the problem I'm having. Sometimes the car runs okay other times no so. The tachometer gauge is still dead.
Has anyone ever rewired a volvo engine compartment? Any ideas. I'm about ready to give up on this car.
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Clear the codes and run the car and check again, see if they're
the same. The codes may point to the trouble.
Look up the code results and post the codes with their explanations.
That way more people might chime in. In my case I have the codes in my files
for an 850 and the codes are unlikely to be identical.
Bill
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Thu Oct 29 14:52 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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Okay.
Here we go.. Just got the car back from a performance shop that works on European cars.
Things they did.
-They went through the engine compartment and found all of the grounds disconnected them, cleaned them and re installed.
-They did a full system test on the car Battery, Starter and Alternator. No issues there at all.
-They then tested out the ABS Unit. The confirmed that the ABS is 100% operational and functioning as it should be.
-They unseated the ECU and the TCU, checked the connections, sprayed them down and reseated them. No issues.
-They then went to the Dash instrument cluster and every time the tested it, in about 10 - 15 seconds it would throw and error code and malfunction.
So, since that was happening I called Erie Volvo and I have a replacement cluster coming to me on Monday.
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OK on all the stuff, is that right that all the grounds were disconnected?
Doesn't sound right.
What code are you getting with the cluster?
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Sat Oct 31 07:24 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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Well, installed replacement dash cluster, only to have the same results.
NO Tach, No spedo, No Odometer, ABS and Brake light on and dthe up arrow flashing.
Car will not run in Drive, must manually shift.
What is causing this? I'm about ready to scrap the car!
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What code/s are you getting, have you read any of my posts?
I asked twice.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Sun Nov 1 12:28 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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As of this morning here are the codes read off of Autozones scanners.
P1618
P1630
P1631
P1633
P0722
P0602
The replacement dash is still doing everything that the original dash cluster was doing.
That being bending on turning the key sometimes the spedo, tach, odometer work and not work in any variation. Dash lights come on/off at random times as well, then being ABS, BRAKES, FLASHING UP ARROW,CHECK ENGINE, ETS. The car sometimes works as normal other times I lose all lower gears, sometimes the cars acts as if it is losing power and surges.
The cars computer was reprogramed in April 2014 by a Volvo Dealership and then again in October 2014 by another Volvo Dealership.
I have found that in doing this the Volvo Dealerships do not stand behind there programing of the ECU in their vehicles.
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Can't you post what those codes mean?
look here: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=27973
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Mon Nov 2 08:26 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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I though you would have had an idea.
P1618 is a communication error between the ECU and the TCM
P1630 relate to speed sensor issues
P1631 relate to speed sensor issues
P1633 relate to speed sensor issues
P0722 output shaft speed sensor electrical issue
P0602 power train ECU error, ECU is Malfunctioning
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Thanks for posting the codes and their meanings.
Here's problem 1
bad wiring diagrams!
C70/S70/V70
TP3941202 1999 133 pgs 36MB
2000 320 pgs 45MB
Neither have complete component list
I tried a different search engine www.ixquick.com and BINGO a good manual !
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/533929/Volvo-V70.html
See page 150 for the tranny (Btw you failed to ID which tranny you have)
See page 272 for component locations
Note Items: 7/61 Input sensor and 7/62 Output sensor
You have twin speed sensors! One is inside the tranny cover it seems.
Which sensor did you replace? First check to see that the connectors (2) are firmly seated, I suggest using some dielectric silicone on the connectors.
Then look carefully for pinched leads. Then swap the other sensor
since your codes are screaming sensor at you.
I wonder if the sensors are the same part number or if it's possible that they are different, and not interchangeable.
That's a job for you, and a Volvo Parts dealer, Maybe Tasca over the phone?
Too bad that you can't find a donor car in the junkyard.
Post back what you find.
Good luck,
Bill
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Wed Nov 4 08:46 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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Yesterday, I spent over an hour on the phone with a technician from Xemodem. He is also a Volvo person himself.
We went through the cars history since I took ownership three years ago.
-In that time the ECU has been reprogrammed twice by Volvo Dealerships.
-The ETM has been replaced and upgraded with a remanufactured unit.
-The ABS Control Module was sent out and replaced, only to find that there was nothing wrong with mine.
-All of the Grounds in the engine compartment (10 of them) have been checked for condition, connection.
-The Dash Cluster or (DIM) unit has been replaced with another one from an identical car as mine. And still getting the same results as my original unit. So the replacement Dash will be going back to where I got it.
-The three Speed Sensors dealing with the Transmission were originally replaced last summer and I just replaced two of them within the past couple of months since all these issues cropping up.
-So in discussion with them they said the only other piece to the puzzle at this point would be the Transmission Control Module (TCM).
He suggested that I get the numbers from mine and call around to match them up as close as possible. He then stated that I would need to make sure that the key is not in the ignition, car totally off, undo one of the battery cables from the battery. Then with the Volvo Pulling tool remove the TCM unit from the black box. I don't have one of the Volvo Removal Tools and they are next to impossible to find.
Once I have pulled the old TCM unit from the car, he then stated that I should wait like 30 minutes for the car to totally discharge. Then go ahead and install the replacement TCM unit into the car. He states that I should be able to start the car and the car will take a few minutes to recognize the replacement TCM unit and I should see at that point if I get all of the crazy stuff happening with the Dash Cluster and take note. Then drive the car around for a bit and see what happens.
Xemodem people believe that the TCM unit is toast at this point. That is the only other electronic piece in the Car that has not been looked at. And with majority of the codes being transmission related they believe this to be the problem.
My cars TCM numbers were as follows:
TEMIC - 303978
off to the right of this top line:
P09472349 CA
under that line was this:
1T0002207 T99300481
Big Numbers at the Bottom of the unit were:
24.1
~~
I got a replacement from Erie Volvo and it has the following on it:
TEMIC - 3978A9
P09472349 CA
1T0403207 T00130001
Big Numbers:
24.1
~~
According to Erie Volvo, they stated that I needed to be concerned with the fact that it was a TEMIC, the P#, the CA, and the Big Number 24.1.
They state that it is a plug and play.
They also stated to me that it came out of a 2000 Volvo V70 AWD XC Wagon, just like mine that I'm having the issues with. The car it came out of only had 81K on it.
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Others, online, have suggested to push the brake pedal after the battery ground is removed to help with the 'power down'.
Remember, when the new TCU is installed, the computers will have to go through the 'learning' process which can be 100 miles or less.
Here is one person's way to remove the TCU:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=53547
Note: his car also has 303978.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Thu Nov 5 16:01 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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To add to the misery on this car.
Today, the car failed to start. Seemed like the car was not receiving any fuel to it.
Causes: Fixes:
Car is sitting at a shop now.
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I ran out of silver bullets.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Fri Nov 6 08:17 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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I found online that it could be the fuel pump relay. I also watched a video where you can jump that relay to test out.
I have a fuel pump and a fuel pump relay on it way to the garage where my car is at. They are going to go through the complete electrical in the engine compartment today.
They took out the old TCM unit and replaced it with the one that I just got from Erie Volvo and this is as far as they got yesterday on the car.
As I mentioned to them that I need car up and running by the end of the day.
They said that if it ends up being the ECU craping out again. Then it won't be up and running by end of day. I told them that if it is the ECU the Volvo Dealership is less than a half mile down the street and have them fix it pronto.
If it ends up being the ECU Unit this will be the 3rd time in the past three years that it has been reprogrammed. This would make me think after this time that the ECU is at fault and a piece of crap!
Volvo wants $1348 for a new ECU Unit, but that does not include the programming of the unit yet which was a few more hundred dollars and then an installation fee of 1 hour at $130. So, in total they would be wanting some $1,800.00 for this.
How to rip off your Volvo customer base, then wonder why sales are tanking in the US. As they once again prove with out a doubt that they are asking way to much money for there cars and poor service work at the dealerships.
I give Volvo a few more years here in the States and they will be gone. They don't even sell 50K vehicles in this country in a year.
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What an ugly story!
Was the car running OK before all this hassle? Did it mess up after some major
job such as a tranny replacement? That might help find the rat in the woodpile.
Maybe the problem is some bad connector, a bent pin, a pinched wire in the harness. From all the agony you are documenting, simple replacement of parts is not finding the problem. Maybe you need a new tech that can check out the wiring
for those sensors and the connections to the TCM etc?
It sounds like some connection with the sensors has gone "Open".
You could do it yourself with the Wiring diagram and a multimeter.
Bill
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Fri Nov 6 18:25 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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Well, things did not get any better today. Still no car!
The Performance shop checked the electrical on the Fuel relay switch and found that all that tested out okay. My pump in the car gave out. While they were attempting to do the work on the car, they broke the fuel sending line and the Fuel line to the filter. That ended up happening at near the end of the day. So now add a few more hundred to the repair bill on this car. And we wait to see where we can get the parts the quickest with the least amount of financial agony.
Then once they get that all back together. They still need to resolve all of the electric crap in the engine compartment.
It is time to find a non Volvo car at this point! Growing old fixing these cars almost monthly now.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Wed Nov 11 16:00 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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The car was all put back together yesterday and was taken out for a test run to see what happens. Majority of the codes disappeared. Still had the check engine and a TCM issue. Car would not get out of limp mode. The mechanic upon bringing the car back to the shop parked the car still running in the yard and went to get his daig equipment. When he came back out, he states that the radiator blew a leak and pissed all over the engine compartment and the ground.
They replaced the Radiator today and called the Volvo Dealership down the street, brought the car over and dealership was going to reprogram the TCM unit.
Well that didn't work the Volvo Dealership was unable to get the replacement TCM unit to accept the Vida Software by Volvo.
Now the Dealership wants $600 for a new TCM, with programming and install. But they stated that they would not guarantee that to fix the car.
I'm thinking that it is time to walk away from the car at this point.
I've spent a lot of money in parts in this car to keep it running over the past three years and I have a lot more into it than it is worth.
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Or earlier car. Fewer computers, less complicated.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Thu Oct 29 14:51 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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Okay.
Here we go.. Just got the car back from a performance shop that works on European cars.
Things they did.
-They went through the engine compartment and found all of the grounds disconnected them, cleaned them and re installed.
-They did a full system test on the car Battery, Starter and Alternator. No issues there at all.
-They then tested out the ABS Unit. The confirmed that the ABS is 100% operational and functioning as it should be.
-They unseated the ECU and the TCU, checked the connections, sprayed them down and reseated them. No issues.
-They then went to the Dash instrument cluster and every time the tested it, in about 10 - 15 seconds it would throw and error code and malfunction.
So, since that was happening I called Erie Volvo and I have a replacement cluster coming to me on Monday.
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Find out if it's throwing codes.
Bill
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Fri Oct 2 14:55 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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had the following codes as of this afternoon as I limped it to work early this morning.
p0722, p1618, p1630, p1631, p1633.
Bought a new speed sensor for the rear of the tranny and installed it. Car started perfect and ran perfect all the way to a gas station. Got Gas and then started the car up only to be at the old crap again.
Not sure what to do here.
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I remember you saying that the ABS module was sent out to be fixed. Where? All the codes point to a faulty ABS module or a wiring problem between it and the Central computer module???
Which computers have you had repaired?
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Keeping it running is better than buying new
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Sat Oct 31 07:26 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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Well, installed replacement dash cluster, only to have the same results.
NO Tach, No spedo, No Odometer, ABS and Brake light on and dthe up arrow flashing.
Car will not run in Drive, must manually shift.
What is causing this? I'm about ready to scrap the car!
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With the codes you have and the ABS repaired, you might have to stop by a dealer and have him read the actual codes and try to erase them.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Sun Nov 1 12:28 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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As of this morning here are the codes read off of Autozones scanners.
P1618
P1630
P1631
P1633
P0722
P0602
The replacement dash is still doing everything that the original dash cluster was doing.
That being bending on turning the key sometimes the spedo, tach, odometer work and not work in any variation. Dash lights come on/off at random times as well, then being ABS, BRAKES, FLASHING UP ARROW,CHECK ENGINE, ETS. The car sometimes works as normal other times I lose all lower gears, sometimes the cars acts as if it is losing power and surges.
The cars computer was reprogramed in April 2014 by a Volvo Dealership and then again in October 2014 by another Volvo Dealership.
I have found that in doing this the Volvo Dealerships do not stand behind there programing of the ECU in their vehicles.
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The p0602 is a new one for me. This is what I found on the WWW:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=37021
You are working on a 1999 V70, right? With a yellow ETM? And you had the ECM reprogrammed twice??
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Mon Nov 2 08:08 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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vehicle in question is a 2000 Volvo V70 AWD XC Wagon.
I got a replacement Dash Cluster from Erie Volvo. The one that they sent me came from a 2000 Volvo V70 AWD XC itself with 78K on it.
I was instructed to switch out the black box on the top of my Dash Unit with the black box of the replacement unit. Everything else was to be plug and play for the information they provided me via the phone call.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Sun Oct 25 11:19 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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Midwest ABS is where I sent it out and had it checked out.
Both Computers in the car have been reprogrammed by Volvo Dealerships twice now in the past three years.
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Bob, check your connection at the ABS, the speed sensor goes through the unit. What kind of scanner are you using? Many of them cannot erase those codes and the codes will not clear themselves.
Also check the ground wire from the tranny to the body and clean it up. Just for something to do? Can you pull the TCU and check the contacts - a long shot.
--
My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Tue Oct 13 10:22 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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I'm having all sorts of issues again with the car. The cars tach keeps dying. Then the car won't shift right, so I have to manual shift. Then we get the ets, up arrow lights. Then no turbo.
A mechanic suggested to replace the positive cable to the fuse box to get rid of these ghost codes.
But now I'm having tranny issues (leaks). I just had the three gaskets between the tranny and bevel gear replaced two weeks ago and now I need to have the tranny dropped to replace the torque seal gasket. And since I'm there the mechanics suggest to replace the rear main seal as well.
Was quoted 1200 for the repair. Not sure I'm going to through that kind of money into the vehicle now.
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The tach gets its input from the cam position sensor, check the connector there.
A bad ground is more likely to cause problems. If the battery gets less than 11V, the newer cars will have computer failures, but 2000 should not have the same problem as 2001+.
With the other issues, 'repairing' the tranny is not a starter.
It is hard to sell with the current problems, but like my 1995, dropping the tranny is difficult to cost justify.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Wed Oct 14 18:42 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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I’m not having any success in getting rid of the electrical issues on this car.
This evening I jacked the car up and took all the wheels of and serviced all of the ABS Wheel Sensors, all clean and look good.
I even ripped apart the positive battery cable to the Fuse Box. What a pain in the A** that was.
Ten minutes into the commute the ABS, BRAKE lights come on. The Tach dies, the speedo dies and the odometer mileage goes blank. Then when I come to a stop I have no vehicle power to pull out and have to manually shift from 1st gear.
Not sure what to do here.
The check engine light remains on.
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My son's XC70 had similar issues and it was an alternator that had stopped charging - so, low system voltage as the battery gradually drained while driving. Many flashing lights and weird behaviour of the trans.
Is your battery at 12.6-12.7 Volts after an overnight rest? And then jumps to 14+V after the engine starts?
To state the obvious, the entire electrical system starts with the battery so begin by checking it and the charging system.
--
Bob: Son's XC70, my 83 244DL, 89 745 (Chev LT-1 V8), and 2010 XC60. Also '77 MGB and some old motorcycles
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Sun Oct 25 11:08 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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Battery alone is at 12.7
When the car starts and runs with no load is at 13.3
So I figured that the alternator is dying.
I have a new alternator waiting to go in the car next week.
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Is your measurement with the car running at the battery, or at the positive post on the alternator? These cars are infamous for voltage drops caused by corroded battery cables. Measure at the battery and at the alternator and post back. Another quick and dirty test is to see if the battery cable gets hot when the car is running, but the voltage measurement is more conclusive...
Good luck!
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posted by
someone claiming to be Bob
on
Thu Oct 29 14:50 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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Okay.
Here we go.. Just got the car back from a performance shop that works on European cars.
Things they did.
-They went through the engine compartment and found all of the grounds disconnected them, cleaned them and re installed.
-They did a full system test on the car Battery, Starter and Alternator. No issues there at all.
-They then tested out the ABS Unit. The confirmed that the ABS is 100% operational and functioning as it should be.
-They unseated the ECU and the TCU, checked the connections, sprayed them down and reseated them. No issues.
-They then went to the Dash instrument cluster and every time the tested it, in about 10 - 15 seconds it would throw and error code and malfunction.
So, since that was happening I called Erie Volvo and I have a replacement cluster coming to me on Monday.
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