Our third car, a '98 V70 with 210,000 miles that we bought 18 months ago, has just had its first checkup in that time. It needs: Timing and serpentine belt, tie rods, all brakes, a wheel bearing, a fuel filter, and the ABS light is on. Our indy mechanic says, all told, about $1800. We bought the car in 1/2014 for $1500 for our daughters. It had 199K on it then.

I'm looking for suggestions. Part of me is thinking that, if I do some of the work myself (I am capable of brakes/rotors, probably the fuel filter), we could have a car that will last for the foreseeable future of mostly around-town driving, have a safe car for the girls, and so on for about $1300.00. Part of me thinks it might be a good idea to sell this for whatever we can get for it (say $1000?) and put the money into a "new" used car for them (but potentially buy someone else's problems). The third part of me says drop the car, lease a Kia or something for like $140/month, and don't worry about maintenance.

Thoughts appreciated!

Only replace the rotors if there is a 'lip' on the outside edge showing that you have worn off a lot of the rotor. New pads on all 4 is easy, just make sure you get OEM for the rear so they won't squeal.

ABS is probably for a repairable ABS module. Less than $100, fairly easy to take off and put back on.

Tie rods? Let your mechanic do that, it is an easy job.

Timimg belt, water pump and rollers? Again, your mechanic is the easiest but it will cost about $400 in labor. It is time for a new water pump and new antifreeze.

This way, you don't have to worry that your kids will be driving a crushable car.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new

None of these items are deal killers to me as they're all routine maintenance.
I'd fix it myself and though save some $$$.

You're probably looking at less than $500 in parts.

Volvo 855T, but possibly very similar.

Brakes: You may need a puller to get the rotors off because of rust between them and the hubs. Also, you may find you need calipers if the pads are very thin and the pistons have come out far enough to have torn or dislodged the piston boots. Fortunately, AutoZone & O'reillys stocks OEM rebuilt calipers. They've always had them when I needed them.

Timing belt: At 210,000 miles you should replace the tensioner and idler too. I was at that mileage and my T belt wasn't due yet but there was a loud groaning from under the cover. The bearing (roller) on the tensioner was shot. Check for coolant leaks too as it was my third T-belt change when I finally had to replace the original water pump. These items are time consuming to do but not difficult. Go to youtube and watch the procedure. Not all tools are created equal though and a few mm length on a socket or torx can be a real PITA. Had to make my own custom length torx 3/8" drive bit to fit the T-belt tensioner bolt.

Fuel filter: Quick and easy. Wear eye protection and don't smoke.

Wheel hub: I farmed this out for lack of time and enthusiasm. I bought two Timken hubs at AutoZone for a reasonable amount and had an indy shop install them for a reasonable amount. So I suggest this route and might as well have them put new rotors on if you need them.

Tie Rod ends: The outer joints were worn so that was easy. On the 855T there are four. Inner and outer on each side. Probably that way for most.

As said elsewhere, if the engine and trans are in good shape get 'er done. I finally retired the 855T after the trans failed at 223,000 and the used replacement leaks like a stuck pig.

Good luck,

Erwin
Cognito ergo Volvo

'88 745T 220,000miles gone
'94 945T 180,000miles gone
'95 855T 223,000mile soon gone
'08 V70 64,000miles and loving it.

Fix it!

I've done all the repairs that you have mentioned.

The timing belt was the scariest, but I've now had it off and one twice now and I'm no longer afraid of it.

You can do it!

You'll save alot of money doing what you can yourself and have a very reliable car that runs great in the end.

This is a no brainer!

Matt

I agree with the other comments 100%
What you are looking at is normal maintenance.
Just think of what happens if you get T-boned in some lightweight car,
then invest in your Brick.

Bill

As long as the engine and transmission are good, I would keep it.
our 99V70 has 286,000 trouble free miles.
The repairs you mention are routine for all cars with that miles.

+1. I read the other replies, and was thinking "what about the engine and tranny?". If those are good, I'd repair it. IT'S A VOLVO!!!

Don't you love the choice game?

Brakes, that'd be an easy just do it yourself item. Do yourself a favor and go OEM parts, saving a few dollars using the "parts" you can purchase local economy is a roll of the dice. My S60 was down right scary in the rain, the previous owner had used the 'take your pick' brand from one of the major chains for sure. With OEM on all four corners of the car the only nuisance is brake dust but the car stops ridiculously fast from highway speeds, tasca parts was decently priced for my OEM rotors and pads. Fuel filter will likely require under car access, something I am always weary of even with redundant jack stands....I am just paranoid.

I'd farm out the rest though unless you are confident shade-tree do it yourself.

Spending low cash on another used car is a gamble as you aware, something in the 4k corridor who knows what you are getting into. If it were me and it was a car for my kids I would invest into what you have....a very well built machine with a lot of life left in it.

As far as a Kia; I'd rather trust the safety of my family in a 2 generations previous Volvo than a Kia. Sorry if that is harsh and is not meant to insult anyone who owns a Kia.

Good luck with the decision process!