Hello All,

I’m following up with some additional questions. I may be purchasing a 2002 S60 T5 (5 speed manual) from the original owner which has 130,000 miles. The car from a distance seems to have been well maintained. The owner installed a chip to bump the hp from 250 to 300.

Besides checking:

1) Rear main engine seal

2) When the timing belt was last replaced (along with the tensor, pulley, and dampener)

3) When was the clutch last replaced

4) The compression in all the cylinders

5) Getting all the info on the chip that was installed

Is there anything else I should check up on this car? I’ve owned Volvos (two ’96 850 wagons and a’99 XC) but how has the S60 been? Thanks to all who respond.

Hugh

Anyone who chips their car should have maint records, it is a must have for the buyer. I assume that he also uses synthetic motor oil and changes it at 7K or annual intervals.

Any oil leaks are a no-no. Check the records for PCV replacement, the leading cause of oil leaks.

The clutch should be original, they typically last 200K. To check, the closer to the floor before disengagement the more the wear. At less than 1 inch, time to get it done.

At 130K miles, the compression should be good. But ask about the individual coils and spark plugs.

Does the climate control work? A/C should be good.

Knock him down a bit for the 'chip', the dealers will not work on a chipped engine.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

Klaus,

For a 2002 S60 T5, at what intervals should the PCV be replaced? It is my understanding they should be replaced every 100,000.

Hugh

130-150K sounds good to me. A latex glove test at 100K, again at 120K.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

Klaus,

Is the PCV (pollution control valve) like a breather box that sits near the exhaust manifold?


Hugh

Correct, the black box is an oil separator or collection device that allows for oil vapor condensation and flow of oil back into the oil sump. The excess vapors are routed up to the intake and burned.

The problem with the PCV 'system' is oil condensing in the vacuum lines, solidifying, and eventually blocking the vacuum port to the intake manifold. When that happens, the crankcase pressure builds and seals start to pop under the pressure. The weakest seals are the cam seals, front and rear, followed by the RMS.

On my current project car with 178K miles, the small vacuum line from the PTC nipple to the intake manifold was plugged, as was the small nipple on the PTC valve (which isn't really a valve). Oil was leaking, weeping, past the rear cam seals, which now needs to be fixed. There is a possibility that the RMS was also compromised, we shall see.

Placing a latex glove over the oil filler hole and starting a warm engine is the best way to determine of the crankcase has positive or negative pressure.

Using synthetic engine oil reduces the risk of sludge buildup.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

Klaus,

Thank you for all your responses above. I purchased the car, and so far it seems it was a wise purchase.

Hugh

Klaus,

Thank you. I had confirmed by the dealership today where the car was original sold, that it was regularly serviced per the owner’s manual like clock work till 2009 when it had 60,000 miles. The service dept. said that wasn’t surprising because was the car goes out of warranty, people stop bringing it to the dealer and go to a private garage. The owner brings this Volvo to same private garage that I do.

Interesting, the clutch was replaced at 70,000 miles. I guess the owner can’t resist that 300 hp. I typically get over 175,000 on the clutches of my 850 before the have to be replaced and they only have 168 hp. Of course, maybe it is time for another clutch on this car. I will definitely check out the clutch.

Hugh