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Obtain a replacement lock solenoid identified for the front passenger door.
OK, it took about 3 hours. Good news -- I didn't have to remove the window glass.
Window closed, and ignition off for the entire procedure. Risk of inflating airbag if powered up with door unplugged.
PASSENGER DOOR
1. Pry off triangular plastic cover at top front of liner.
2. Pry off long, skinny plastic cover plate on door handle grip starting at the bottom. Remove two torx retaining screws exposed under cover plate.
3. Remove 8 button fasteners around outer edge of door liner. There is a plastic core at the center of the button 1.5 mm in diameter, not visible. Using a wooden cue-tip stick or other 1.5 mm shaft, tap on the center of the button until core shaft breaks free inward. Push core in as far as it will go. This relaxes the spread on the anchor, and should release the button. Pull the liner free at that position.
4. Lift the door panel upward applying lifting force near the top, lifting the panel to clear the door lock button.
5. Unplug the 3 electronic connectors attached to the door panel. Each plug has a single locking tab to depress.
6. Remove the gray foam flex-seal cover to expose the innards where the lock solenoid is located. Start anywhere, and using a tool, gradually break the glue seal from the metal door frame, going around the entire periphery. The cover is tough, it won't tear if you lift small sections.
7. Disconnect the internal handle cable from the solenoid body arm. Slide the cable's black plastic mooring clip backwards off its metal tab, then the cable tip can be swiveled 90 degrees to disengage from its receiving arm on the solenoid body.
Break, getting ready for the hardest part.
8. Note the window's rear track, and specifically the rivet where it attaches to the door at its lower end.
This rivet must be destroyed, and the track guide freed at the bottom to gain access to remove the lock solenoid. It's hard steel. I used a dremel cutting disk on the outside to disintegrate the head of the
rivet. A 1/8" bolt / nut / lock washer will replace this rivet. I dremeled the interior end of the rivet as well. Not fun. Drill out the remnants.
9. One the outside end of the door adjacent to the lock latch, remove the three #30 torx bolts that secure the lock solenoid.
10. Unplug the electronics plug from the solenoid, depressing a single locking tab (see replacement unit).
11. Disconnect the outside door handle connecting rod from its solenoid arm. If you grab the rod with pliers and pull toward you, it will disengage from the spring clip (see arm / clip on replacement unit).
12. The solenoid control cable is clamped to the door below the solenoid, and this clamp must be carefully cut freeing the cable, otherwise it will entrap the solenoid.
Final removal:
Gently flexing the window track guide leftward, gradually slide the solenoid out -- it's like birthing a baby -- you have to patiently find an exit path. Don't permanently bend the window track!
It's out! Now reverse the entire process with your new solenoid. In place of the rivet, use a shallow head bolt (so it doesn't protrude far), and a lock washer / nut on the inside of the window track. Reclamp the solenoid cable where it was attached with tape or tie wrap/ cable tie -- this cable must be restrained from interfering with window movement in the track!
Once the door panel is hanging back on the door, w/ all harnesses reconnected, I recommend to live test the solenoid lock and power window. You may have to pull the inside door-open handle to initialize the solenoid to the unlocked position. Test all door opening and locking modalities, manual and automated.
The 8 buttons that fasten the door panel must be removed and prepared for re-attachment. The core pin wants to be sticking out the front of the button. Once the button is back in place and the panel closed tight against the door frame, tap in the core pin flush -- spreading the anchor.
You just saved yourself a $500 labor charge.
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