I have a low speed "rattle" in the left front of my 2004 V70 with 146,000 miles on it. Noise occurs between 15 & 35 mph on slightly rough roads. Larger bumps and dips don't make any noise and doesn't get worse when turning, it actually usually disappears when turning. Sounds like it's coming from just in front of steering wheel. I've replaced the sway bar links and control arm bushings and still have the noise. I've tapped, shook and pried on every moving part that I can find and find nothing loose. The ABS control unit is in that location. Can it be activating and causing that noise? Any help or info would be appreciated. Thanks.
Marlin

ABS doesn't make noise. Try another test: when you hear the rattle, apply the brake pedal with your left foot - lightly - while maintaining speed. My wife had an A4 with a light rattle and it turned out to be a brake pad.

Original trouble shooting was to use a rubber mallet and bang on anything and everything, including the caliper. The 3 prongs on the brake shoe had one of the prongs loose, easy fix.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

I took the LF wheel off and banged around on things with a rubber mallet,
but couldn't find any obvious rattles. I took the caliper off and cleaned
up the backs of the pads, then reinstalled them & torqued the bolts.
Couldn't find any obvious brake problems. Checked the upper strut nut, it
was tight, as was the strut bearing bolts. The upper motor mount rubber is
really loose in the bracket. The rubber appears to be in good shape, but is
completely loose in the mount. Is this normal?
Marlin

Hard to believe that is the source of the noise, but the rubber should never be loose. I wonder if someone replaced it with the wrong part?
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

Upper engine strut didn't solve problem. New struts, mounts & spring seats ordered from FCP. According to the FCP video (on an 850) I can just use an impact wrench to remove and install the strut nut. Alldata indicates that I should take a measurement at the top strut bolt (on the side of the strut) to make sure the camber is adjusted correctly. Does this all sound ok? The procedure appears to be much easier than on my 940's.
Marlin

If it is time for new struts, fine, but get the heavy duty spring seats (like XC90). You will need new strut nuts, 2 for each side, as they get 'stretched' after initial torque of 52lbs. Make sure you have a good quality spring compressor.
You do not need to remove the caliper, the strut will move to the rear and then come down, out of the way. Just be careful with the ABS sensor line!

Measure what? If you are replacing with Sachs, outline the old strut position with a pencil and try to put the new strut on the old lines. Rule of thumb: get an alignment afterward at a reputable shop, should be around $100.

There is a trick to check for bad spring seats: Get a large wrench or channel lock pliers and try to turn the large nut on top of the strut clockwise. If there is resistance and the nut wants to turn back to its original position, the spring seat is good.

Did you also check the end links? Just turn the passenger wheel to the left, reach behind the wheel grabbing the vertical link and shake it. If it moves, the end link is a gonner and will rattle with bumps. The end links have to come off when removing the strut, might as well replace them, the OEM don't last that long anyway.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

The alldata torque specs for the "Shock absorber in steering arm (M14): step 1=105nm (77 ft. lbs) step 2=Angle-tighten 60 degrees"

These are the 2 bolts that hold the strut to the spindle. Are these the same ones that you reference needing to be new and torquing to 52 ft. lbs?

My specs are up to 2000. Go ahead and use the Alldata at 77# and 60 degrees.
And, yes, new nuts. Go to the dealer for them.

The way I measure things... I prefer to just trace the outline with a pencil.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

New strut, spring mount & bearing solved the problem. FCP didn't have new
bolts but I'll order them. Scheduled for alignment tomorrow. Thanks for
the help.
Marlin

You don't need new bolts for the strut mount, just new nuts. Then, again, I reuse mine and have never had a problem.

Even if the car runs straight, an alignment is always worth while. A good alignment shop will check all of the steering components and let you know if anything needs replacement. Besides, it will save tire wear and mpg.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

Here's the measurement recommended by alldata:
"Measure the spring strut position in relation to the wheel spindle before removal

Measure across the wheel spindle/spring strut at the upper screw as illustrated
Before measuring, clean off any dirt from the measuring surfaces
Note the measurement."

I have replaced the sway bar links because they've caused noises on the S60 & 960, but that didn't solve the problem.

I ordered the 6-piece Sachs set from FCP: Struts, mounts, & spring seats. I did not specifically order the XC90 seats.

I will get an alignment when finished.

Thanks,
Marlin

I know, but I ordered a new one. It'll be here next Wednesday.
Marlin