Hi, I have a 1999 B5254 Turbo, with variable valve timing, which needs replacement head. Can anyone tell an equivalent to this?
The shop has made the surface true but found it is bowed, "not true sideways", when looking down on it and because it has the cam shaft cover over the head cannot see to set up the machines to do the work. Something like that and the shop says they can't do it.

1999 and 2000 should be the same. Any turbo model. Not sure about NA engines.

Ditto on the head being twisted, that is most unusual.
--
My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

Hi guys

Thanks for replies. I researched a lot.
The 6th and 7th digits of the vin tell the engine type. Mine is 5 and 6 so B5254T. I also wrote to ARD Tuning, which I just heard of on the web. Robert there said they often put B5254T2s (the two means dual vvt) onto 850s and others and leave the vvt unconnected and is compatible. So there are a number of options.
I've advertised for a head and I will get one.

The warping issue is this: it's the middle exhaust cup in which the cam shaft sits it is out by about 1mm. It could have grown larger, protruding, or like a landshift has moved out of line. The shop can't do it because they need to see the cups when they set the machine and when they run the bore. They can't see with the cam cover over the top, which is our cars' design. ie It would be very costly if they keep resetting the machine etc. They couldn't guarantee their work and they might be concerned there are more deformities as well.

When I put the straight rule along the cups that one is out. The rule goes like a seesaw. They reckon the shaft should turn freely with the cover bolted down, which they did, but the cams were rigid.

I did run it very hot, and it is my own fault for trying to get back to my city but I was in panic mode. The car did get me out of the mountains to safety and to a small town - but I buggered it up when I tried to go back home ..
The car did stop once on me when I first got to that small town and I thought that was it, but it started well again, but the second time it stopped when I returned to that place after giving it a shot on the highway to home - 20km return trip, it must have been baking. Yes, I replaced coolant and tried to hold it in the heater core but I bet that core wasn't letting the coolant through. The engine got me back again to the small town then once I turned it off, it wouldn't go again and the gasket had kicked itself out the exhaust at about #3. So, moral of the story, strong engine parts. They must be strong. The fault I think came from the heater core though, which is what blew in the mountains and which really irks me. How can the whole integrity of the system go through the firewall and under the dash?

I'll get another head that is not so badly treated, maybe skim it or test my rule on it and set it up.
I love my Volvo too much and have spent small sums getting it nice to drive.

I am tempted to sand/mill the 1mm out myself. When I turn the shaft on the positioning bit of the shaft in between the lobes, it gets a groove. I can see where it is out. However, other parts of the alloy could be out as well and I only have one new set of head bolts to stretch. So, I will keep my search.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=804340567&ed=true

I have a block with head removed from a 2000 S70 GLT/SE (turbo). All it needs is to be cleaned up/boiled. Maybe we can make a deal.
Tom

Thanks Tom. It would have to be a 2.4/5 Litre turbo engine. It would also have to be shipped 14,000km to New Zealand! :)

The shop is saying that the head is twisted to the side ?! You should have stopped driving when the hood melted. I not ever heard of a head being out of line in that direction. Were the head bolts bent ? Check with another machine shop or import junkyard to find a compatible head.

Greg