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V70 2004 Timing Belt V70-XC70 2004

posted by  Bruce T on  Tue Jul 1 18:02 CST 2014
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last visit: Sat Jul 5 18:40 CST 2014
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Hello. I have a 2004 V70 with 114,800 miles. I think it is the time to change the timing belt. I called two places. One says or recommends to replace the water pump as well (about $800+) and another place does not think we should replace the water pump if it is not bad (about $500+). I don't have to replace the water pump. DO I? Thank you.








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    posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

    Because the water pump is behind the timing belt, you would have to almost do the job over again should the pump fail. Looking at the pump , if you see limescale formed on it coming out from underneath the belt gear , that is the beginning of the end. (limescale is that white mineralization that forms on your shower head over time ) Try to use a dealership gasket . There are seven bolts total and a lot of antifreeze will flow out even if you empty the system into a bucket down below first


    Have a sharpie marker and mark the exact position of the cams before you take the belt off as the little notches on the cam wheels did not line up with the cover in my case . Also on my 2005 there were no marks on the crankshaft belt gear so mark those as you find it.

    At 115k my dealer original belt was fine but the idle pulley was leaking a tiny amount of oil. The tensioner was fine and neither pulley was making any gravel noises. I did the job because one place wanted $1150 for it and another wanted $950. You can get the new timing belt on without removing the drive belt pulley (30mm socket required ) by removing the two bolts and plastic guard just behind it and finagling it on. Or you can just pay someone !



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    posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

    Are you the original owner. Has the coolant been changed. Is it the proper coolant. The coolant protects the water pump from corrosion.

    Changing the water pump gives you piece if mind. If the water pump fails, you risk loosing the engine. It is not the belt alone that fails, usually the water pump or the tensioner or pulley fail, causing the belt to skip or break.

    If it were me I would change it, and change the coolant.


    --
    I'm stuck on Volvo and Volvo's stuck on me....when it comes to FWD I always listen to the "Oracle of Minnesota'



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    posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

    You can watch these videos and decide if you want to tackle it yourself. Each of these two mechanics approach the job slightly differently. Personally I like to replace the belt WITHOUT removing the crank pulley like the one video shows. Both guys have good pointers.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IK_zH8g8Fow

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Emsa-w-n93s



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      posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

      Chris,

      Thanks for those videos. It looks easier than I expected for a sideways engine. I should be ordering my T-belt parts this week since I'm less than 1000 miles from due now.

      Do you know why nothing was said about locking the cam wheels or turning them past the mark by 90 degrees and then backing up to relieve the variable cam timing tension? Is it because it was not necessary by 2002 & 2003? Mine is a 1999 V70, and I have been told that I have to deal with the variable cam timing load.

      Thanks,
      Charley



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        posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

        I actually put mine back on a notch out on the exhaust side. I had tried very detailedly to match. I used the paint trick. Still, was one out. It was just a miss, and an easy fix but also easy prevent.
        The hardest thing I found about the belt was getting it off the bottom crank pulley, but which was doable and no biggie putting it back on. The tensioner freaked me out at first but got easier to lever with no special tool but some kind of long adjustable spanner and an alan hex key. I had to do it twice due to redoing the cam thing so got used to it well. But getting the notch right would be a big priority next time to be more exact.



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        posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

        "...Do you know why nothing was said about locking the cam wheels or turning them past the mark by 90 degrees and then backing up to relieve the variable cam timing tension?..."

        I think there's a whole lot more hoopla and hand-wringing over the VVT than is warranted. As long as you don't remove the sprockets from the cams, and as long as all the timing marks are on target when you apply tension to the new belt, VVT will take care of itself - just like it does day in and day out whenever you start and stop the engine.

        Now, if you remove the sprockets from cams, that's whole nuther story.



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          posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

          Aha, I see. There was certainly no hand wringing about it in the videos. Thanks Chris.

          Charley



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    posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

    I replace the water pump every other timing belt and I replace the belt and tensioner every 70,000 miles.

    You don't have to replace the water pump, but if it goes bad, you will spend all the money again to replace it.

    For $800 I'd replace the timing belt, the water pump, the serpentine belt and the tensioners myself. It is not that difficult. It would take you a whole day to do it if you have never done it, you take your time, and don't break anything. The $300 difference seems a little steep to remove and replace 10 more bolts and a $130 pump.

    As a side note, our '04 V70 does not have the timing belt tensioner that it is 'supposed' to have according to the serial number. Don't know why, but it does not.

    Greg


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