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Erratic Oil Consumption plus Cat Efficiency Code V70-XC70 1999

Now that I have put some miles on the Volvo that I bought in mid-April, I have developed a few questions. It is a 99 V70 non-turbo that I bought with 196,670 miles. After about 1600 local miles, I drove it from Kentucky to northern California, and shortly after my return I drove it New Jersey and back. I now have about 205,750 on it.

According to the paperwork with the car, the oil had been changed at a quickie place with 5W30 Valvoline synthetic about 2000 miles before I got the car at a cost of $81.38. I changed the oil 1000 miles after I got it because the oil was filthy, it was using oil, and the filter was about the size of a shot glass. Since they had the previous owner on a 3000 mile change schedule, and the book cites a 7500 mile interval, I suspect they felt justified to not actually change it every time. There is no way I can back that up, but after I changed it, it was still clean enough at the 3000 mile mark that it was hard to read the stick and the consumption seemed to be reduced. I used 10W30 synthetic and a Mann W917 filter. I changed it again today with the same.

So much for the history. For this change I over shot the 7500 mile mark by about 500 miles, but 7000 miles of that were the highway miles for the two trips with very few heating/cooling cycles. Over the course of the 8000 miles I went through about 4 quarts of oil, so the average is a quart every 2000. But, the usage rate is not consistent. I did not keep careful track while on the trips, but I know that between fill ups there was often little or no difference on the dip stick, and then the next check might show it needed a good bit to bring it to the max.

A couple days ago the oil was about 2 “Xs” above the minimum. I did not add any because I was planning the change. Today I checked it before the change, and it was about 2 “Xs” below the minimum. I think there was less than 100 miles in those couple days. The car was not on completely level ground for these checks, but it was in the same place both times. It was slightly nose low and left side low.

Here is something else I found interesting. The owners manual says it takes 6.1 quarts with filter, and it says there is 1.6 quarts between the min and max marks. After dumping 5 quarts out and putting on a new Mann W917 filter, I added about 6.2 quarts. This brought the oil only to half way (3 Xs) between the min and max marks. At this time I had done my best to find level ground in the driveway.

So, it seems that the dipstick is calling for quite a bit more oil than the book calls for. I know that running too much oil might contribute oil consumption. However, the rapid oil consumption seen in the last few days on the old oil was when it was below the halfway point on the stick, which would have been below 6.1 total quarts.

It is not leaking anywhere I have noticed. Also, I have twice picked up code P0420 for cat efficiency below threshold. After the first time I replaced the rear O2 sensor on the advice of the parts store reading the code based on his observation that the voltage output of the sensor looked wrong, though I did not see the output myself. He owned an S80 himself, so he may have been a cut above the average parts house guy with the code reader. The same code returned in about 3500 miles. I suspect that oil burning is causing a problem with either the O2 sensors or the cat, or both.

Anybody got any ideas about the erratic oil consumption? Any thoughts on the cat efficiency codes being related to the oil consumption? Sorry for being so long winded.

Thanks,
Charley








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    I am guessing here, but 2 issues come to mind. Valve seals on an old engine and a turbo seal.

    First is to warm up the engine and check the crankcase pressure. Do this by pulling out the dipstick and placing a finger of a latex glove over the dipstick. If the finger gets drawn in, good, or if it gives you the bird, bad. If you get positive pressure, you will need to clean out the PTC nipple on the air intake (between the air cleaner and the turbo). It is also possible that some of the other vacuum hoses are clogged and need to be checked/replaced. Dealers just do not make these checks.

    You could remove the bottom hose to the intercooler and check for oil, lots of it. That is what happens to old turbos, the turbo seals are replaceable, but you need a serious workbench and tools. I can point you to a procedure listed on a British web site, but there are probably others based in the USA.

    Valve seals do wear out and excessive crank pressure will push oil past the seals. This is not a 'minor' fix and most of us drive with the problem, removing the head and replacing 20 seals is not for the normal gear head. If the seals get bad enough, you will find that long warm up times will generate blue smoke out of the exhaust as will long down hill stretches of road.

    Yes, burning oil will coat the O2 sensors and make them produce codes.



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      Hello Klaus,

      Thanks for the response. I was starting to think that my question was so long that no one wanted to read it.

      My V70 is a non-turbo. Sorry if I misled you. I guess checking crankcase pressure with the glove is still a valid test, but tracking down a clog in the PCV system would be different. Does cleaning the PCV system require removing the intake manifold?

      I have replaced valve seals on other cars with the head in place by using either air pressure through the spark plug hole, or by feeding a soft rope into the spark plug hole and bring the piston up to press the rope against the valves. Do you know if this is possible with this engine?

      Finally, do you have any idea if the oil burning is likely to ruin the cat?

      Thanks again,
      Charley



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        It takes a long time to ruin the cat with burning oil, less time to coat the rear O2 sensor. The oil should only be present during throttle lift off.

        Reaching the oil separator requires intake manifold removal. But, in your case, a thorough cleaning of the PCV (next to the throttle body) would help. Note the small vacuum line there and make sure it is not filled with crud. There should not be a screen (flame trap) in with the PCV valve. If there is, throw it away.



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          Klaus,

          With a quick glance, I didn't see the PCV valve. But, I did buy the Haynes 850 manual that you suggested so maybe that will help. Or, if I look it up on one of the supplier's web sites a picture might make things clear to me.

          I went back and read my initial message (well, not all of it) and saw why you thought I had a turbo. I had hyphenated nonturbo, and the line end break left the non- as the last bit of word on one line with turbo being the first word on the next. Easy for the eye to miss and read it as a turbo.

          Thanks Again,
          Charley



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            You have a 1999 and I was thinking 1998, sorry. No PCV like the good old days. What you will find is a hose like this: http://www.ipdusa.com/products/8497/113272-pcv-hose-assembly

            and it tends to get the small portion on the bottom left clogged. There is a writeup on Matthews on how to repair this with out spending a LOT of money.



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              Hello Klaus,

              When I look at the part in the link you posted, IPD says it doesn't fit my car. Doing the search by starting with my car details, I get this part for the entire PCV system kit.

              http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4994/115027-pcv-breather-system-kit-1999-s70-v70-non-turbo

              The hose (the long one pictured in the center) is also available by itself for about $55. I've been house painting so haven't been out yet to warm the car to try the glove trick on the dip stick.

              Thanks,
              Charley



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                Klaus,

                I looked at the IPD site some more. I think the hose you posted the link for is for the turbo model and I have the non turbo.

                Charley



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