I bought three sets of these bolt in LED lights:

http://dx.com/p/3w-210lm-led-eagle-eyes-white-light-car-backup-daytime-running-light-12v-pair-80cm-cable-185076

Since I'm not interested in headlight wipers, it was a neat job to remove the headlight wiper assemblys and use the harness for each of them to wire in LED DRL lights in the plastic trim beneath the headlights. The passenger side wiper was a problem to remove and I wound up snipping the wiper shaft with a medium size pair of bolt cutters to speed removal. To mount the lights requires 13/32" holes, and in my case I mounted one of the LEDs in the hole used for the wiper, that one required a large washer.
I mounted all of the LEDs with 2 part epoxy so they wouldn't fall out.

The wiring was easy, Just connect the Red leads of the LEDs to the Yellow of the wiper harness. Connect the black leads of the LEDs to black of the harness. (Note that the red wire in the harness is not used). I used some shrink wrap and black tape to insulate and some tie wraps to secure.

Wiring in this fashion runs the DRL lights when the ignition switch is in the run position. The DRLs are fused with Fuse 38

With the DRL lights (6) on, the current draw is 6 AMPs. The LEDs are bright white, highly visible. The low beams and DRLs draw just under 20 AMPs.
The low beam circuit draws 14 AMPs

There's some questions:
Maybe a single LED would be OK for high visibility and cut the current requirement from 6 amps down to 2 Amps. (not to mention , save a few bucks)

Who knows how reliable these LEDs are and if they require a heat sink? The reliability of these devices installed in the plastic trim remains to be seen.

It would be easy to kill the DRL's when the headlights come on by installing a relay (coil) at each headlight harness and open the power to the DRLs with the switched contact (NC) in series with the wiper harness power lead (Yellow).
That would be easier and less messy than wiring to a dash switch.
and those 12 V single pole DC relays are cheaper than dirt and plentiful at the junk yards.

Photos on request

Bill

Kudos, nicely done.

Question, the picture of the LEDs in the Chinese ad made it look like the rear post is threaded. It also looks like the round part close to the light is in 2 parts and the rear most just winds off. Not true? Could we use a large screw and washer to mount these lights?

Fuse 38 is a spare in my book.

Too bad the BB picture facillity is not working.

The light housing is made of metal and there is a mounting hex nut supplied.
The light looks like it's weatherproofed, but time will tell.
The only hiccup is that the opening in the trim plate for the wiper shaft
is large and requires a large washer in the rear, and needs to be carefully
positioned to hide part of the hole on the right and left. I had to drill out a large 3/8 washer to 13/32" which required a drill press. For a better job I'd add another washer the thickness of the trim plate with some flats on it to center in the in the elongated hole. I used a lot of Harbor Freight's 2-part epoxy to keep it in place and tightened with a 15MM flare wrench.

The lights are so bright that a single LED on each side might work fine.
That would take a big load (18Amps) off the alternator and maybe result in a small
performance improvement especially in around town gas mileage where the car
is running at low RPMs and not developing full horsepower. The shifting through the gears might be slowed up as well with the constant added drag on the engine.

It would be interesting to do gas mileage tests , with and without headlights.
and see if the alternator drag alters the MPG.