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About 1 week ago, I started feeling that steering wheel was tight during driving straight and turning. Also, steering wheel was reluctant to return to center after a turn, manual turning was needed. When car stopped, I could turn steering wheel without too much effort, just did not feel as easier as before.
Then yesterday, car stalled for no reason in a one-way back road while driving at about 20 mph. It was very embarrassing while other cars behind cars were kept horning. I managed to pushed the car to the side of this one-way street with the help of a couple young men who just walked by. I did try to start the car right after it stalled, but only cranking no starting. Up-arrow was flashing along with CEL light.
After car was on the side of this street, I tried to start it again. It started right away with flash up-arrow and CEL. Mode selector was also flashing the Green LED. I was driving the car at Sport mode before it stalled. I could drive the car home at 55 mph. Initially, I thought car was in limp-home mode, but it wasn't. There were 3 codes pulled, A1: 114 and 223, A3: 311. I cleared the flashing up-arrow and CEL now.
My question is that
could the stall related to the tight steering wheel ?
could the tight steering wheel because of dying power steering pump ? (steering pump is still the original one from day 1)
steering rack was replaced less than 1 year.
I had tight steering before during high way driving, dealer replaced the U-joint between the steering column and steering rack. Could this be a steeing U-join issue again ?
Right now, I do not drive the car because I don't want it to stall again in the middle of the highway or main road !! My car is about 275700 miles now. Any suggestion is appreciated.
Ching-Ho Cheng
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1995 855 NA, Bilstein Strut & Shocks, Volvo Protective Grill, K&N Filter, E-Code Lens, ClearCorner Light, Alpine CD-Changer, AutoDim RearView Mirror, 6000K HID
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I opened up the transmission mode selector switch today and found out that one of the contact for selecting ECON or SPORT mode had burned mark. This may contribute the intermittent high resistance path to one of these 2 modes.
BTW, I tried to post pictures of the switch but no luck. How do I post pictures to this forum ?
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1995 855 NA, Bilstein Strut & Shocks, Volvo Protective Grill, K&N Filter, E-Code Lens, ClearCorner Light, Alpine CD-Changer, AutoDim RearView Mirror, 6000K HID
![](<a href="http://s136.photobucket.com/user/lcc014/media/850%20Transmission%20mode)
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Two ways to do it:
Upload a picture using the pull down menu at the top of the screen (...more). Make sure the picture is less than 50K in size and .jpg format
After it is uploaded, copy the entire line under the heading 'HTML' on the right side of the page and paste it to your post, like this:
"<"img src='http://d22t88r4cz00i6.cloudfront.net/9760.jpg'/">" but leave off the double quote marks ("). There can be no blanks, spaces.
Or if the picture has already been uploaded to another online site, copy the URL and put it inside the quote marks where the current 'http' is.
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KlausC,
Thank you for the instruction.
The sudden stall/no start issue came back last Saturday after I replaced both the TPS and transmission mode switch (Econ/Sport/Winter). I took it to Volvo garage in Boston and they found the positive connection between the battery terminal and fuse box was lose. That caused the intermittent stall/no start issue. It's a matter of fact that when the tech. test drove my car after her cleared the code, the car stalled while he was driving. He traced the problem to the lose/broken connection between the battery +ve and fuse box.
So, my Volvo is back again :)
Ching-Ho Cheng
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1995 855 NA, Bilstein Strut & Shocks, Volvo Protective Grill, K&N Filter, E-Code Lens, ClearCorner Light, Alpine CD-Changer, AutoDim RearView Mirror, 6000K HID
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Thanks for updating us. Glad everything worked out well for you!
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95 855 GLT Sportwagon 222k, 90 244 DL 300k+ - after 11 years has a new home
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For stalling, check the white vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator (injector rail) to the vacuum tree at the throttle body. If there is any gasoline in it, your are running too rich at idle and fouling the spark plugs. Ditto, if there is an air leak on any vacuum line.
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KlausC,
Thanks for the reply. Would too rich at 20 mph driving speed foul the spark plugs and stall the car ? What about the 2 codes from A1, 114 and 223 ?
Thanks.
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1995 855 NA, Bilstein Strut & Shocks, Volvo Protective Grill, K&N Filter, E-Code Lens, ClearCorner Light, Alpine CD-Changer, AutoDim RearView Mirror, 6000K HID
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1-1-4 = Program selector open circuit or short circuit to supply
2-2-3 = Throttle position sensor signal too low
The first doesn't bother me too much as it could have been the switch between E and S modes, no big deal. Besides who knows how long that code has been around.
The second is a potential problem, usually resulted by a bad ground somewhere. But I suspect it came about because the engine died while in gear.
At 30mph, you are in 3rd gear and just above idle speed. If you have been running rich prior to this, a leaky vacuum line will make things that much worse. The fuel pressure regulator is driven off vacuum, the more vacuum the less fuel pressure. I have seen Volvos die in the city because of plugged PCV problems, the engine thinks you need more gas at low speeds because the vacuum is positive instead of negative.
Just take your car on the highway and let it burn off. Always use "S" around town and "E" on the highway (so it doesn't downshift when you give it a little bit of gas).
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KlausC,
Thanks for the explanation. PCV systems was done in last summer between June and July. Fuel regulator was also replaced at that time too. Even with the old fuel regulator, no fuel in the white vacuum line back then.
When I did the PCV system, I did clean up several grounding bolts/connectors around the engine and firewall while the intake was out of the engine. However, I did not clean the main ground in front of the battery. Should I do that ?
Could the TPS be bad too ?
Another question is the tight steering. Other member suggest that this is a common problem and need to lube the U-joint. Where is the U-joint of the steering column located ?
Thanks,
Ching-Ho Cheng
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1995 855 NA, Bilstein Strut & Shocks, Volvo Protective Grill, K&N Filter, E-Code Lens, ClearCorner Light, Alpine CD-Changer, AutoDim RearView Mirror, 6000K HID
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Put some synthetic oil in a squirt can and lube the U joint coupling with it. It worked the best for me. I use it for all "rust buster" jobs now. Works better than any of the other canned stuff.
Tom
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Thanks for more idea to deal with the U-joint. I just looked at old record, U-joint was replaced back in Jan. 05. So, after 8 years, it started to bind....
Ching-Ho Cheng
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1995 855 NA, Bilstein Strut & Shocks, Volvo Protective Grill, K&N Filter, E-Code Lens, ClearCorner Light, Alpine CD-Changer, AutoDim RearView Mirror, 6000K HID
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You could unplug the TPS connector and plug it back in after cleaning the connector, but "I" would wait a week or so and check the codes again. Don't wait for the check engine light to come on as some codes do not trigger it until several itterations of the same error happen.
Ideally, you should check and clear all of the codes every time you get an oil change. Including your ABS sensor code in A-3.
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Thanks KlausC. I will do that. For the time being, I am worry about driving my Volvo - don't want it to stall/stop in highway :( I think I need to drive it anyway.
Ching-Ho Cheng
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1995 855 NA, Bilstein Strut & Shocks, Volvo Protective Grill, K&N Filter, E-Code Lens, ClearCorner Light, Alpine CD-Changer, AutoDim RearView Mirror, 6000K HID
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Ho,
The u-joint is located below your brake reservoir, next to the exhaust manifold, just above the steering rack. It attaches the steering shaft to the rack. Removing the air hose between the exhaust manifold and the air filter box will make access easier. BTW - It might take 2 or 3 sprays before the u-joint loosens up...
Good luck with your stalling problem. Post back and update us. I have a 95 850 too and I am curious.
J
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95 855 GLT Sportwagon 222k, 90 244 DL 300k+ - after 11 years has a new home
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This evening, I replaced the Throttle position sensor and then put everything back to try the fix. I could not start the car, just cranking no start. I then took the battery and airbox out again to check the new throttle position sensor. The connector was not tight enough ! I could pull the connector out by hand. Volvo connector is locked by metal clip on both sides of the connector. One side could not be latched pass the metal clip. It took a while to fiddle around and pushing. Finally, the connector was locked in by the metal clip on both sides. Car started right up.
I believe the stalling could relate this the connector not being locked in position. I did the PCV system last summer and remember that the connector was tight. Well, I did not pull it using my hand back then to test the tightness. I tried it on MAF sensor connector and IAC valve connector. Both are tight and not able to disconnect by hand. Hopefully, this is the cause of the stalling.
Ching-Ho Cheng
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1995 855 NA, Bilstein Strut & Shocks, Volvo Protective Grill, K&N Filter, E-Code Lens, ClearCorner Light, Alpine CD-Changer, AutoDim RearView Mirror, 6000K HID
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I sprayed white lithium grease onto the joint (just removed the aluminium hose) more than 10 times while my daughter was turning the steering wheels with the car off. After that, I turned the steering wheel with the car on, what a big difference.
Next is to clean the TPS connector.
Thanks.
Ching-Ho Cheng
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1995 855 NA, Bilstein Strut & Shocks, Volvo Protective Grill, K&N Filter, E-Code Lens, ClearCorner Light, Alpine CD-Changer, AutoDim RearView Mirror, 6000K HID
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I will do that either this evening after work or tomorrow lunch time. Based upon KlausC's comment, it may be a bad ground and triggered the A1:223 code. I will look around and also check ground and the TPS connector to make sure.
Thanks.
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1995 855 NA, Bilstein Strut & Shocks, Volvo Protective Grill, K&N Filter, E-Code Lens, ClearCorner Light, Alpine CD-Changer, AutoDim RearView Mirror, 6000K HID
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Regarding your steering issue. I'm almost sure that you simply need to lube the steering u-joint (especially since it has already been replaced). Best thing to do is to spray it heavily with white lithium grease spray as you rotate the steering wheel from lock-to-lock for a few minutes. Try to work into the joint as best you can. WD-40 will also work but won't last as long. Both my 850 and my 240 had the exact same problem. Road salt and corrosion over time make the u-joint start to seize up. It's good maintenance to spray it occasionally...:)
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95 855 GLT Sportwagon 222k, 90 244 DL 300k+ - after 11 years has a new home
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Thank you. I will do that. Any idea about the stalling issue ?
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1995 855 NA, Bilstein Strut & Shocks, Volvo Protective Grill, K&N Filter, E-Code Lens, ClearCorner Light, Alpine CD-Changer, AutoDim RearView Mirror, 6000K HID
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