It's been a few years since I've been on the Brickboard. I was on the 740/940 side, but when the trans failed on my last 940, I never fixed it and went back to driving my Diesel Benz & MGB instead. Years ago I had 544s & 122s, but that probably predated the Brickboard.

Anyway, I just got a 1999 V70 wagon, one owner, with 197k miles on the clock. Is there a recommendation for a service manual for that car?

Also, I'm barely into my first tank of fuel. What kind of fuel mileage should I expect?

And, besides the timing belt schedule, are there particular issues with respect to this car that I should be inspecting?

Thanks,
Charley

Try

http://xemodex.com/technologyimproved/
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'96 855R,'64 PV544 driver, '67 P1800 basket case, '72 Yamaha Rd400, '68 Honda 350-4, '12 XC70, the first 5 are mine, heh, heh, 525,000 miles put on 10 bricks James A Sousa

Thanks James,

I'll give it a try. I was able to get onto their site before, but the navigation proved to be a problem.

Charley

At 200K, most of the ETM issues should have been addressed. You will have problems with the coil overs, but those die with a misfire code. The rest of the maintenance is like an 850, so get a Haynes 850 manual.

The timing belt change interval is 105K miles, this includes a manual tensioner (the 850 had hydraulic) and rollers. A water pump is probably due at this time. Note, if you change the Tbelt yourself, rotate the engine to the timing marks. Then continue past TDC for 90 degrees and turn BACK to the timing marks. This reduces pressure on the VVT.

Check the hardware for the steering, control arms, etc.

Thanks, Klaus.

I was beginning to sense a similarity to the 850, but would not have guessed it was close enough to use the same book. Sorry, don't know what ETM is, Electronic Throttle Module? I believe I saw a recent receipt for control arm replacement.

Are the coil overs something I should have on hand as spares?

I'm afraid I might have caught a whiff of antifreeze when I turned the heater on this morning. By the looks of the location, I suspect that is a bear of a job.

Charley

If the ETM rears its ugly head again, I suggest contacting www.xemodex.com for a permanent solution.

Coil overs usually last 90K+ miles. The problem is the engine heat under the spark plug cover, and for that there is no resolution. Keeping a spare handy is a good thing. All 5 won't go at once.

Get yourself a code reader. The best is to find one that works with a PC laptop. That way you can get all of the diagnostics, not just engine and tranny. Most autoparts store will read the generic codes for free, some will even delete them except California.

The heater core is a 2 hour operation, at home, first time. Easy to inspect on the driver side. Pull down the carpet next to the gas pedal and pull off the black kick plate.

Removing the passenger side panel under the glove box requires the removal of the glovebox first to expose 3 screws that hold up the panel. Not a real pain.

You will need Torx screwdrivers. I have found a folding Torx tool with 6 bits a valuable instrument for about $5-6. I keep mine in the glove box.

As you will find out 1999 was not the best year for the V70, but it beats the heck out of 2001!!

Check the tranny fluid, it is easy to flush if needed. The dipstick is hidden under the fresh air pipe on the driver's side.

Thanks again, Klaus.

I remember you giving good advice on the 940/740 side too. It is a great relief to hear you say the heater core is only a 2 hour job. I was afraid it might be like the evaporator on some of the Benz cars where the entire dashboard has to be removed.

A set of Torx drivers is on my list. I only have a few random ones. I'll look into the code readers too.

I read one of your earlier responses about xemodex. I tried to look at their web, but I think there was a mismatch between my browser and their site.

The trans does need a flush. I have records of it being done, but it's been a while.

Is it worthwhile to grab some coil overs at a pick-and-pull? I'm sure they would be cheap, but maybe they would be near dead as well.

I'm off to try to peek at my heater core.

Thanks,
Charley

Closely inspect any coil overs you find for small heat related cracks. You can test them on your car, one at a time. Remember you can not use the starter if a coil is not grounded as it will be destroyed, ie. when you pull a sparkplug and want to check for spark you must have the plug grounded at all times.

New coil overs cost around $50 on the web.

Interesting that you cannot get xemodex.com on your browser.

Glad you told me that about checking the spark. I had a vague idea that checking spark the old way could get you in trouble with newer cars, but didn't quite know the details.

I saw no signs of leaking at the heater core. Maybe that white plastic case is sealed well enough to keep the coolant from leaking out? Or, maybe the leak is just enough to smell, but small enough that it gets evaporated off before it leaks?

Thanks,
Charley

Coolant smell - Do you smell it just occasionally or all the time? How full is the coolant level? If it too high it can seep out of the top of the expansion tank cap when the engine is hot. That has happened to me.

If it is not the coolant level, I suggest doing a thorough search. Take a good look at all the hoses. Also check the passenger side of the radiator for leaks. Pay particular attention to the "seams". The expansion tank cap might also be tired. The expansion tank could have developed small cracks in the bottom. Finally, if you still can't find it remove the timing belt cover and look at the water pump.

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95 855 GLT Sportwagon 222k, 90 244 DL 300k+ - after 11 years has a new home

Jwalker,

Thanks for the suggestions. The coolant level is just above the minimum. I smell the coolant as soon as I turn the heat on. It seems to me that if I leave the heat on for a while, the smell fades away. However, I don't know if it is really faded, or if my nose just gets used to it. I haven't put enough miles on the car yet (about 120) to know if the coolant is dropping.

I have had a look under the hood, but I could not claim that it was a through search. Because the smell comes with the heat, and leaves when the heat is off, I think the heater core is the prime suspect. I have considered short circuiting the heater hoses and rigging up a pressure tester for just the heater core.

Charley

Not an easy job to pressure test the heater core in place. It's easy to see if it's leaking by removing the trim panel on drivers side. I have one for sale at a good price if you need one. Bought one and found out my leak was at the "O" rings. Contact by email tom@tlestrange.com if interested.
Tom

Thanks Tom. I did pull the kick panel, and I can see no signs of leaking. However, I do smell coolant. So, I might be interested in your heater core, but I haven't made a positive determination yet.

Charley

Yup, sounds like a heater core. Haven't done it, but I understand it isn't a bad job in these cars.

Oh yeah, gas mileage is low 20's in town and up to 30 MPG highway. 30+ if you have a 5 speed. Hey, pretty good for a 5 cylinder, somewhat heavy car...:) Much better on the highway than my 4 cylinder 240.

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95 855 GLT Sportwagon 222k, 90 244 DL 300k+ - after 11 years has a new home

Thanks Again jwalker. That fuel mileage doesn't sound too bad. Unfortunately, I didn't get the 5-speed. In an earlier post, KlausC guessed about 2 hours for a first timer on the heater core.

Charley

Just make sure to use OEM seals, the after market seals are tooo thin!!!

hf63,

Do you mean the O-rings for the heater core?

Charley

Just make sure to use OEM seals, the after market seals are tooo thin!!!

Just make sure to use OEM seals, the after market seals are tooo thin!!!