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I just bought a 2001 XC70. The seller said that the transmission slipped when starting from a stop. Initially, I agreed. However, after doing some searches here, I now believe the transmission is in limp-home mode, and that it is in third gear. The transmission does not shift at all, and the engine is turning just under 3000 rpm at 60 mph. The information text window on the right of the instrument cluster indicates 32 mph (or maybe 36 mph) as the average speed when driving on the highway at 60 mph. The speedometer works fine. The text box will indicate slower average speeds, but never higher than 32 or 36.
I am new to FWD Volvos, but have been doing some reading online, and believe the problem could be the transmission speed sensor. Does this seem reasonable? If so, is this the sensor that is at the front of the transmission?
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1966 122s, 1968 142s, 1969 144s, 1979 245dl, 1989 244gl
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This morning I read about the trip info computer and realized that the average speed was probably low because the previous owner had been only driving it around town. I reset the trip info, and on my way to work, the average speed was more representative of reality. I declare, this car is like a spaceship compared to my 240.
I did notice last night that the cruise control didn't work. Could that be related to the problem somehow?
Last night, I am confident that the transmission was not shifting at all. However, this morning when it was cold, it was shifting a little. I am assuming, though, that it was not getting into high gear because I was still turning around 3000 rpm at 60 mph. As I approached 60 it was a little higher than 3000 rpm, and then I felt it shift and it dropped 200-300 rpms.
When I bought the car, my belief was that replacing the solenoids and flushing the transmission fluid might well do the trick.
Any ideas?
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1966 122s, 1968 142s, 1969 144s, 1979 245dl, 1989 244gl
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There are error codes stored, you need to get a code reader and find out what they are. The cruise control will not work with errors present. I suggest reading the codes, deleting them and then see which ones come back.
The early 5 speed trannies were/are problematic. The software used to run them was not paired well with the car, which is why there are so many updates.
You also need to take a look at the electronic throttle box and see if the lable is white(bad) or yellow(replacement, better).
By all means, flush the old ATF. Toyota dealers sell it at a reasonable rate. You will need at least 10 quarts to do it right. The dipstick for the tranny is under the air intake and hard to see, but it does have a yellow handle. A home flush take around 30-45 minutes. I would do the modified flush: Drain the sump with the tranny cold. It uses an aluminum crush washer, the same as the oil pan. Then refill through the dipstick hole to get to the same level as before. Then perform the 2 quart at a time flush using up the rest of the 3309 fluid.
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My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic
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Will I be able to read the codes with a code reader that can be rented from a parts shop?
Are the codes cleared with a function of the reader or is there something I need to do with the car like disconnecting the battery?
How might be a good way to approach a Volvo dealer about getting the software update? I don't know what the attitude of the DesMoines dealer is regarding DIY's with "older" cars, but in the past I have run into very cold shoulders when seeking parts/info regarding 240's at dealers.
Thanks for any ideas! This is a very new experience for me. I realized that the day would come when I would be unable to find good 240's, so I took the plunge into the 21st century.
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1966 122s, 1968 142s, 1969 144s, 1979 245dl, 1989 244gl
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Call your dealer and ask about the Volvo Software for Life program, or something to that effect.
I'm in the Toronto area in Canada-- my local dealer did the software update for free, which included up to an hour of computer diagnostics (essentially reading the OBD II codes). The service writer added rough shifting to the notes for the tech.
You can read the codes at a parts store, but only the dealer can update your software, which is what I would do second after changing the fluid to proper JWS 3309 spec. Don't drive the car too much in limp home mode-- it's not good for it. The dealer will also reset the adaptations, which is done using proprietary software (you can get Volvo VIDA for under $200 if you want to do this kind of stuff).
I can relate to your experience-- I'm a recent convert from 760/240/940 ownership-- these cars are a breed apart!
Good luck!
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My O'Riellys part store loans out the code reader for parking lot use. You can then look at all of the codes, write them down, and when done - delete. You can always ask the clerk to help. Autozone and some others require a clerk to read the code but they will not erase any.
Try to avoid clearing the codes by disconnecting the battery. You need to know what the code is before deleting anyway, plus the need for the engine and tranny to re-learn your driving habits.
The 2001 is a poor example to move to the fwd/awd cars. The tranny is a real problem.
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My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic
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The dealer's service dept. will charge you for the software update so there should be no attitude. They should be grateful for the business!
I would think the scanners at the auto parts stores should do the job, but I have read mixed reports about their capabilities.
Don't know about clearing codes on your car. Do know this, if your car has a radio code be sure that you have it before disconnecting the battery.
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95 855 GLT Sportwagon 217k, 90 244 DL 300k - after 11 years has a new home
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The 2001 5 speed automatic in your car is not the best one Volvo ever sourced. The first thing to do is to change the fluid (not a power flush-- either do it ~3.5 quarts at a time by pulling the drain plug, or disconnect the return hose at the radiator and pump it out and refill until it comes out clean). Make sure you use JWS 3309 spec fluid (Volvo branded, Mobil, or Toyota Type IV) Then take it to the dealer to have the software updated. The updated software pulses the solenoids in a very different manner from the original programming, and also deletes a harmful stop-neutral program.
My 2000 V70 has the same transmission-- the fluid change and software update made a huge difference in shift quality. I am also planning on replacing my B4 Servo cover ($24 at the dealer-- helps with rough 2-3 and 3-4 shifts). Resetting the adaptations and running a drive cycle is a good idea.
The dealer will also run OBD II diagnostics as part of the service, which may give you additional insight into the health of the transmission. Don't give up on the tranny based on what the dealer says until you've refreshed the fluid and updated the software. Others have reported success with swapping the entire valve body for an updated rebuild. Worst case is a guaranteed unit from Erie Vovo.
The cruise control may be related to the electronic throttle module-- that's one of the other shortcomings of the 2000-3 model years. The dealer can do a sweep test to see if the potentiometers are toast inside. Aftermarket rebuilders are available from $250-500 for the ETM.
Good luck!
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Have you checked to see if it's throwing any codes? I don't know much about the 2001's, but I'd focus on any tranny codes first. A bad PNP switch will also put the tranny in limp-home mode.
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95 855 GLT Sportwagon 217k, 90 244 DL 300k - after 11 years has a new home
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