Instructions for replacing the air pump were posted not too long ago. I can email them to you if you want (I didn't write them so I am not going to repost). It doesn't sound hard, I think one of the techs says he can do it in 20 minutes. Based on that I would figure 2-3 hours.
Good advice to reset the light and see if it comes back. My experience: I have a 97. The CEL came on for the air pump in July 2000, then November, and again in January. I have software to reset the light so it's not a big deal, otherwise you'll pay more for resetting the light than you would getting it fixed in the first place.
The air pump fails because the check valve between the pump and the exhaust sticks open, allowing exhaust vapors to wander back toward the pump. Water from the exhaust condenses and ruins the pump.
You should definitely replace the valve to prevent further damage, it's about $80 and very easy to install. Some people say they have removed and "dried out" the pump and cleaned the relay contacts. I haven't done that yet, but since the light keeps coming back on it's on my list of things to do. OTOH the guys who work on these every day say that once the pump is damaged it is probably shot.
So, what to do?
1. You can replace all the parts yourself (about $425 in parts, assume cheaper by mail order).
2. replace the check valve and look at the pump/relay to decide which one is probably giving you trouble and replace one or the other (pump $280, relay $42) or
3. let the dealer do it.
Big problem is the cost/hassle of resetting the CEL while you are troubleshooting. You have to decide that one. Did they reset the light when you had it checked? If it is now off you could replace the valve, clean the contacts on the pump/relay, and cross your fingers.
You are right, it doesn't hurt anything to have the pump broken but with the CEL on all the time you won't know if something else goes wrong. Also don't think you can pass an emmissions test without fixing it.
BTW, the Haynes is clueless on the secondary air system.
|