Well, as I get to the edge of the grave on my '96, I'm looking at new ones. Since I don't really mind doing work on the cars I'm thinking of getting one from a dealer auction (for cheap) and having to do the work to get it up to par. I think entering the car knowing I've got to replace a major thing or two is a lot easier than getting a surprise in a few thousand miles.

So, I've looked around a bit on craigslist and it seems that a good condition 850 goes for about 2k out here. How much should I knock off my bid for the repair jobs coming up? Here's an estimate of what I'm thinking:


Timing belt (this age, I assume water pump replaced too) -$350
head gasket-$700
valve job - $500
leaky oil (cam seals or ptc)- $200
black transmission oil- $200 (this is to lower my risk if transmission is going, however burnt=run)
CAT/O2 codes - $200
rebuild turbo -$400
A/C not working - $500

Are these close, and should there be more? Also, do they hold for an S/V70?

I can't drive the car around, so I really don't know much about the condition of the transmission/suspension/brakes. Not sure how to check transmission outside of the transmission fluid and perhaps a code showing up. Any way to check suspension?

Also, I recall there used to be a place in FL that rebuilt heads (machined it down, replaced valves, etc.), does anyone have a link/information on them?
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?

Well, today I learned once again that just deciding I knew the problem was wrong. I had been suspecting a head gasket going on my '96, as I saw no leaks. I was having to fill up the coolant tank from when the fill light came on up to max (on cold engine) every 250 or so miles. I though that I saw some smoke a couple of times, but I was never sure if it was coolant or just a thicker cloud from a longer idle (because I AM burning oil, but that's another matter).

Anyway, today I noticed a little wet spot on my carpet near the door, and since it had just rained I figured my door drain was clogged and it had come in. Checked the door drains and found them unobstructed. So I pulled up the carpet to find that the floor underneath was damp, not soaked. Well, next step was to pull back the carpet by the heater core, and I found it a little sticky, and slightly wet.

Started the car with the carpet pulled back, no leaks. It heated up, hit the pedal and I get a little stream of piping hot coolant coming out. Problem found, and it doesn't require me to replace the head gasket.

Ordered some parts, likely replace it Wednesday. Guess I've pulled this one back out of the grave for a little longer.

Bought a Behr core and the pipe assembly, but I don't think I'll change the hoses from the engine to the firewall. Hopefully that doesn't come back to bite me. I'll use Matthew's as my guide and that should get me through the repair. Even though it has been a little under a year since I last flushed the coolant, I'll go ahead and do a full flush with this.

I went through my records and they only go back to '01, with no mention of it being done. I think this was the factory core, so 16 years on it isn't bad.
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?

The pipes from the firewall to the core should still be good. They are a pain to repl. The core is easy, just make sure you bag it and another bag to catch any coolant left in the pipes. New O rings are required.

Tail pipe smoke from valve guides are to be ignored until the engine fails! Head work is expensive.

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My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic

>The pipes from the firewall to the core should still be good. They are a pain to repl. The core is easy, just make sure you bag it and another bag to catch any coolant left in the pipes. New O rings are required.

I'm hoping that is the case, and if I have the $60 assembly on my hands that I didn't have to use, I'm OK with that. I just figure if the part is going to break during the repair, it'll happen to me. It would be nice to fix something without any problems along the way.

I am still going to be replacing, but now I think I have the ability wait for the right thing to come along. Seriously considering saving up and jumping right in around the '06 mark. But I do like the older ones with mainly mechanical systems.

>Tail pipe smoke from valve guides are to be ignored until the engine fails! Head work is expensive.

It has been about 10k since it started and I have no desire to have it fixed. I am sure it'll eventually cost me more to keep putting oil in as it burns it, but still, not worth the effort. At $4/qt and using a quart every 500 miles, it'll take me, what, another 60k before I'd break even on parts for the job?
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?

So, parts just arrived. Core is made by Nordic. Checked the site to make sure it wasn't my fault for ordering wrong. Site says Behr. Called them up, they don't sell Nordic (their distributor doesn't even list it as a part).

So my options are: Use it (and they'll refund difference in cost) or send it back and wait for the right one to come.


It's a 16 year old car, on the way out. That doesn't mean I to do the job again in a few months if it fails. So, has anyone used Nordic parts? Are they pretty good, or is failure a decent possibility?

I'd prefer to do it now so I can get the car running again, but I think I'd rather not have to do the job again on this car.
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?

Put Nordic rotors on the rear of my 850 (with new pads) about 2 1/2 years ago. NP...

If it is cheaper, go ahead and use it. Someone recently found a new core for $35 or so, heck it is easy to replace if it leaks again in 5 years.

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My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic

Well, I decided to use it. Took a little over two hours to change the core, run to the grocery store for distilled water, and flush the system. Surprisingly I had no little surprises along the way. If only the evaporator was so easy.
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?

I really like your "If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?" signature. So the other night I just went out driving in the country, a little too fast. It was fun.

How about a T5 manual:

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/cto/3095823774.html
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My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic

Not bad, only 1100 miles away!

I think I'll check out this '97 850R this weekend. The price is quite nice, so hopefully there isn't any huge issues with it.
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?

The "R" has TRKS light on, if the ABS is also on, it could need a little controller soldering or the splines in the rear axle are rusted over. That is a nice price, so check the trany fluid! Ask about any maint hist or speed mods.

It's black, so a scraped up front spoiler will look better with some brushed on Rustoleum in gloss black.

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My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic

Beautiful car, and within a few hundred miles on the odometer from what mine had when I bought it for the same price.

http://www.cylinder-heads.com/Home__.html

Are you looking at P2 cars or just 2000 and older? 2003 and newer are a good find at auction sites.

The 1999s introduced ETM. The 2001 introduced 5 speed auto.

If you just want a replacement 850, there are some nice ones and clunkers also.

A Tbelt change w/pump is closer to $300 in parts.
Pulling the head is no fun, the gasket is cheap and the bolts are expensive.
Someone just replaced an ETM with a yellow label in a 2001 and no programming????

Keys and remotes for newer cars are quite expensive!!

New radiator? Hoses?

There is a 1995 854T with 120K miles in KC for around $1000.
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My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic

Thanks on the link. Looks like the head, $45 for bolts, $100 for gaskets/seals, $50 for fluids and I'm set, right? Probably couple that with timing belt/water pump (unless i can verify they were done recently) so I don't have to worry about that for three to four years.

Preferably looking '98 or before, as they have less computers to go wrong. The '03+ can get out of what I'm looking to spend quickly as there is more demand from others.

I can start the cars so '99+ would have ETM error on the computer (in addition to any rough running possibilities) if there was a problem, correct? XeMODeX is $500 for a new ETM and slightly less for them to rebuild the one on the car.

Hoses/radiator/fuel pump/anything else that I might need from my old '850 will be pulled. Same with the climate module in the cabin (and the relay controlling the drivers window. Now I can have both front windows automatically go all the way down!). Interchangeability of parts would make a '96-97 NA 850 quite attractive to me.
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?

The plastic dash bits, ECC, switches on the 850 are black, the /70 are gray. The ECC will not swap either.

Most of the Southern climate cars have had evap replacments already and should be cold.

The /70 cars have window switches in the door, nice, but the driver's master tends to break because of people leaving the window rolled down in the rain. I happen to like the /70 over the 850. Nothing wrong with the 2000 /70, so long as it has been taken care of.

Finding a lower mileage 97 will be a hard task. Most of the examples up here don't have AC anymore.
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My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic

So, I got back from this weeks auction viewing. Two 854s with transmission issues (don't know exactly what, but arrow/check engine on the whole time, could just be PNP switch, could be more). Both had brand new fluid, overfilled, in them. Also, one 855 NA with high crankcase pressure, and what appeared to be the start of a head gasket failure (oil smelled a little sweet), but a working AC and seemingly no transmission issues (fluid was probably 60% used, starting to show signs it needs to be changed). Seemed to be pretty well kept, except for the PCV system. Told my friend (the dealer who will bid for me) to go up to $900 for it. I doubt I'll win, I assume someone who intends to flip it will buy it for more, but maybe I'll get lucky.

Anyway, I think I'd prefer a /70, but there was only one there. An '01 AWD with transmission issues. I do like the window switches in the center console, but I like the styling of the v70 more. I would prefer a wagon, as the space to haul would be nice. If I don't win the 855, next week might bring more /70s. Auctions appear to be crapshoots.
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?

Most of those auction cars will have PCV issues and rotted vacuum lines. The ATF level in an engine that's not running will always appear to be 2 quarts high on the cold side of the dipstick.

Wait for something you like. If you want a wagon, then wait for a good wagon. $900 sounds like a lot for the auction, you might get it.
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My name is Klaus and I am a V♂lv♂holic

There is an old rule of thumb about car air conditioners, that goes something like this: If you want a used car with air conditioning, make sure it works when you buy it. "All it needs is some Freon" is invariably a lie.

I figure with the 850s, A/C working is quite rare unless it has been replaced already. It'd be amazing to find service records, but I doubt they'll be there. I like the "assume broken until proven working" attitude with regards to it.
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?