Ok, I am moving up in the world!
many years of Volvo shade tree wrenching...240s...740s...940s...850T...now v70GLT

Pick her up for $900 and runs well. 190k miles.

Got her with CEL on and scanned for cylinder mis-fires. P0300 code series.

I cleaned the rotor tip and dizzy cap terminals...which were bad.
Swapped out with known good coil.
New plugs.

After sitting for a while, still has long crank cold start...will eventually kick over.

After this initial start and running, it will re-start right up and run sweet.

Next obvious things to do are change fuel filter and go thru all vacuum lines.

All those lines to turbo are old and will get changed.

I will need to check fuel pressure (need to tap the fuel-rail line with fitting)
Is this a special fitting or regular bike valve fitting? What is spec pressure?

If the pressure spec's out, should I focus on fuel press regulator? This year is different from 95 850....so cannot swap out. No vac line to pull off and smell for gas.

Also I will put new temp sensor off t-stat housing. Or how do you check that per spec? Resistance vs. temp change?



I know you are out there Klaus......you have the same model

What is nice is the 95 850T has a lot of same parts, so I can swap stuff

Thanks

$900, what a find!

I suspect your fuel pressure regulator is at fault, but you are wrong about the vacuum line. The FPR has moved to the frame under the dash and has "2" vacuum lines! Those fuel lines that come up over the engine by the Tbelt cover, one of those is a fuel line, the other is a vacuum line and goes to the front of the manifold - from the FPR. The other FPR vacuum line goes toward the driver's side. My 1998 had a leaky vacuum line at the end of the hard FPR line to the manifold - short but full of cracks.

With multiple misfires, I would repl the rotor and cap as soon as possible. The spark plug wires are probably original, the date is stamped on each wire, but they do last a long time. Check the spark plugs, you want copper core gapped to .028 in.

If you have an old tire pressure gauge - the pencile type, use it to check the pressure at the end of the fuel rail. That is indeed a schrader valve. You should find the pressure just fine after starting the engine, about 38-40psi.

The ECT sensor can be checked, just do not have it unplugged when the ignition is on :>)
68F = 2800 ohms
104F = 1200 ohms
176F = 300 ohms
212F = 150 ohms


You will want to consider the following, a new boost controller from IPD which comes with 3 vacuum lines. Clean the PTC valve in the intake line before the turbo - it is a bear but needed. A new air filter and cabin filter.

EDIT:
With a cold engine, try turning the key to posII several times and listen for the fuel pump. It is possible that the backflow preventer is failing and fuel draining back into the tank. Several posIIs followed by a quick start will diagnose the back flow.
Fuel pressure should drop to 20psi after engine stop within a few seconds and to about zero after a few minutes.

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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

cool...I will do all this.

Wouldn't a bad FPR throw a CEL code?

So glad you are out there.

Nothing in the fuel delivery system sets a CEL, it is mostly mechanical. Newer cars have a fuel pressure monitor, but they also have more computers and 3 fuse boxes!!

I got a P0300 once. I ran out of gas as I was pulling into the pump, lucky me. After starting the car, the air in the line and pump caused the misfiring. I could have prevented the codes had I been a little more patient and let the engine idle for a few minutes, instead I was headed back into 55mph traffic with full boost.

Klaus


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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

This IDP boost controller you speak of, I can't find it on their site?

Here is one of several:

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/7624/115603-bcs-boost-control-solenoid

But, I would call IPD and ask about a BCS kit they had for sale which included 3 silicone hoses. It might be a frivolus(sp) expense on the light pressure turbo, but with my "R" it made a real difference when giving it gas.

If you just replace vacuum lines, do one line at a time. The three to the BCS can get confusing.

Klaus
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

update:
parts came last night to finish it off.

things I found: cam seal behind dizzy has been pushed out allowing oil to get into cap and rotor plus condensation. Potential crankcase pressure issue.

fuel pressure was 32 psi...below spec

new parts I will intall thsi weekend:
oil trap and lines
intake manifold gasket
coolant temp sensor
rear cam seals
turbo vac lines
fuel pressure reg (I will swap this last to save $130)
fuel filter
spark plugs and wires (they are dated 1997!)
air filter
front strut mount bushing

I will post the outcome

That's two days of work, without beer!

One of the things to look for increased manifold pressure is the PTC nipple. It is on the air intake between the filter and the turbo, it has an electrical connector. A pain in the butt to clean, it gets almost solid. I used a very small screwdriver and reemed it out, along with TB cleaner.

While the exhaust manifold is off, clean the butterfly valve in the throttle with TB cleaner.

Klaus
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

this is therapy for me...i need to have something to take apart and make better.

yes the PTC thingee (what does that do?) is all clean now and the throttle body as well

let you know the outcome.

One thing the previous owner complaint about is the keyless entry system.
They said when car if parked in hot sun, it didn't work when the key chain button is pushed....only when the car is colder.

regards

PTC valve thingee allows excessive crank pressure to bleed off during boost, keeps the engine seals in place.

Have fun,

Klaus
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

but what does the electrical sensor sense?

ok, got it all back together.
The last thing I didn't install is the Fuel press regulator. Hoping to save $140 bucks on return.
Runs better but still hestitate to kick right up....but will eventually go and run great.

Fuel presure is around 38 to 35 psi and steady.
Last to change out is Coolant temp sensor. I have a new one but not installed yet, I left it plugged in and left in glass of water (model cool coolant). fired up better but still not fully convinced it is totally fixed.

Man, my 95 850T fires right up and strong...so that is my bench mark.

Tell be about the ignition power modual? Where is it.

Can I take ECU's from the 95 850T and check on a 98 V70 GLT

The Fuel pump relay are different from 85 850T and 98 V70GLt (no center terminal). One thing I noticed is when I plug the relay back in, it starts the pump briefly...even though key if off??????

Getting closer!

The coil is on the fender, if that is what you mean by ignition power module.

When you replace the ECT sensor, do NOT get any antifreeze on the alternator or it will be ruined. Best to pour some antifreeze out of the block, driver's side bottom.

Don't trade the ECU's, please. The HPT is different than the LPT, just like the fuel pump relay. I have not heard of a pump running when plugging in the 103.

Klaus
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

thanks for all the non appearant advice! I woul dhave spilled all over!

ok so the little black box on the coil mount is the ingition amp. The 740/940 had it separate on the drive fender wall closer to headlamp. Anyway to test it?

I will swap with know good from 95 850T

Yeah, it is stange. If I start the car and then turn off with key left in ignition, and I go to unplug and plug back in the FPRelay, the pump actuates briefly. Kinda like turning key to KPII and fuel pump runs a little.

Now if I take key out, it does not do it.

Maybe bad ignition switch?

Scratch to head.

I think i found the culprit...#1 injector leaking. I took the rail off while under pressure and drip, drip, drip.

Will order new one, and that should do it.

Ahhhh peace

Rob

Great! That is not one of the normal suspects, any old injector will do if you want to visit a bone yard. Even older Ford Mustang V8s have the same injector.

Use a couple of bottles of Techtron cleaner in a tankful of gas to keep the crud out of the other four.

Klaus
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

so checking online with autohausaz.
For a 98 mustang gt v8....delphi injector is $73

Volvo bosch injector (red) is $115?

ford one ok?

I just noticed that you have an LPT. The ford injector is for the 2.3L HPT.

If yours is just leaking a bit, try injector cleaner - 2 bottles of techtron? in a full tank might do it. A professional cleaning by machine will do it, but then you will be without a car.
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

Ok, this car just sits in the garage next to my 90 300e benz.

I will call a wrecker tomorrow

thanks Klaus

1997-2000 with the 2.4L LPT.

For an online source (Michigan actually) to clean an injector:

http://www.cruzinperformance.com/

$18 + shipping for a really good cleaning. Do all 5???

Klaus
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

Got used red injector from dismantler for $25.

All back together and FIXED!!!!

kicks right up all the time.

very cool the way you can take the fuel rail off these cars and check spray patterns and drip loss.

Thanks BB

That is good to know. New ones are $115