I have a 1995 850 manual trans with 164K. Shifting into any gear with the engine running but the car not moving is very difficult. As I try to shift into a gear with the car stationary the car moves slightly forward or back(depending in the direction of the gear) before I let out the clutch. Shifting into any gear with the engine off is very easy. I've checked the linkage and cannot see a problem. The clutch pedal travel feels very normal and the movement of the slave cylinder linkage looks adequate. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Don't feel lonely. Yesterday, someone posted on the local Craigslist:

"I have a running 1993 Volvo 850 glt . It has a great motor all it needs is a linkage or a new Tranny. Make me a offer I can't refuse.
Has 173,335 miles. Newer tires.leather interior. It is a 5 speed manual. Will need to tow it.not driveable "

His asking price is $700 obo, white paint/beige lether. The pic shows the center console removed. I suspect it is the same problem as your 1995 with almost the same mileage - in need of a new clutch/bearing.

Take heart, most other cars with a clutch will only make it to 100K before a replacement is needed.

Klaus


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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

Your slave cylinder is external. Have you adjusted the the push rod to give you more clutch action?
If you are letting your children learn in your car, your clutch will start wearing down faster.

Check the fluid level in the slave reservior, mine evaporated a bit and started giving me problems.

Klaus
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

Thanks for the suggestions, however since I last posted I tried another procedure where I took a long thin steel bar and physically pushed the fork to the end of its stroke(i.e. the clutch should have then been fully disengaged). However I have the same symptoms even when doing this procedure. I was reading on Matthews Volvo Site, Ozark Lee reported a similar problem that was caused by the throwout bearing wearing out and causing the fingers on the pressure plate to wear down therefore shortening them and then this causing the fork to not be able to adequately disengage the clutch due to the shortened fingers on the pressure plate. Thoughts?

My nice old car has a threaded shaft coming out of the slave cylinder, and the farther out the adjustment nut goes, the sooner the clutch engages.

Ozark Lee does know his stuff and I will always defer to him.

Rowing through the gears with the engine off is never a test because it can easily be done without the clutch.

Klaus
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

klaus, Thanks for the reply. The shaft on my slave cylinder is not threaded and there appears to be no adjustment possible. I,m assuming OL is correct and now collecting all information I can find to tackle the transission removal. Any thoughts on removing the engine and trans vs just the trans? I've done an engine-trans removal before but not just the trans. The engine runs flawlessly and the compression is very good(180-190) so it doesn't need any work. I did redo the crankcase ventilation system a couple years ago and it nearly stopped the rear main seal leak. When I bougtht the car the rear main was leaking so badly that oil had spread all the way to the rear bumper under the car, now only a little is noticeable at the weep hole. By the way I love Volvos also. I've had eight but now only have four. I've given away three to other volvo enthusiasts who were in need and to ease the harrassment from my wife who relishes making fun of me to her friends about my passion. Also thanks for all your posting on this site over the years. I've learned alot from you.

Good Volvo indies around here charge around $1800 for a new clutch and rear main seal replacement. It is easier to remove just the tranny Vs engine also, neither is fun work. One of the dealers will leave the engine/tranny on the sub frame and raise the car, leaving the engine on the ground.

Klaus
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

Klaus, Thanks again for good advice.

In my jumbled mess of bookmarks, I came across these instructions. A different year, model, trans I know, but probably a lot is applicable:

http://www.v70xc.com/resources/how-to/pdf/XC70_P2_AW50-51_Trans_Remove.pdf

http://www.v70xc.com/resources/how-to/pdf/XC70_P2_AW50-51_Trans_Install.pdf

Thanks for all the information. I ended up replacing the clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing over the course of a long weekend. The problem was pretty much as Ozark Lee describes on Matthewsvolvosite. The "fingers" on the pressure plate were worn down so much the throwout bearing could not push the pressure plate far enough to disengage the clutch adequately. Also the cage that holds the pressure plate and springs together was partially broken. I used the instrutions from alldatadiy.com. They were pretty good. The three tips that others have mentioned were very helpful:
1. Remove the frame that the engine is mounted to entirely for better access
2. Remove the fan
3. Cut the heads off of two approx. 5 inch bolts that fit in the holes that mount trans to motor, one on either side to act as guides as you bring the trans and motor back together
4. When purging the clutch slave cylinder line after you have put it back together be sure to keep the brake reservoir completely full as is is very diffiult to see the clutch slave cylinder reservoir since to partially shares the brake reservoir but is mounted behind the the brake reservoir
Thanks again for all the input, She running perfectly again.

Because you suspect the clutch/bearing is worn out, I am wondering if you could extend the slave rod by placing a plastic cap from a tire schrader valve over the end. It would extend the shaft by 1/8in and might get you to the shop. Or it might last for a few weeks.

When the clutch went out on my 1964 Beetle, I drove it for a couple of months. The only problem was 1st gear: I would turn off the engine, engage 1st and then hit the starter and the gas pedal to get the car moving. The other gears slid into place by careful syncronizing of the rpm with speed. The beetle did not have a tach, just careful listening and never forcing a gear.

Klaus
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic

While an assistant pushes down on the pedal, observe the clutch fork to see if you can detect any bending. The older RWD's would, on occasion, get a crack in the fork such that the end would move just fine, but inside the bell housing they would bend rather than move the throw-out bearing far enough.