|
|
|
1998 C70 2.3L T3, 223k
Was making some repairs to my car on an abnormally warm January weekend. Oil was about ready to be changed (first time since the head gasket work). When I went to remove the oil filter, I noticed that I have a seeping oil leak of some sort above the filter. I'm not quite sure where it's coming from, but there is a pipe or two up there below/behind the ac compressor. I'm not sure what this is exactly.
Seems like it's related the the oil cooler lines that run to the radiator, but I'm not all that familiar with this subsystem. Any advice or observations here?
When I did the head gasket at 220k, I made a substantial number of repairs. I have a completely new heating/cooling system - from the radiator to expansion tank, to the heater core, and every hose in-between.
All upper engine gaskets are new. All heating/cooling hoses were replaced. I have a new PCV system and oil trap. All intercooler and vacuum hoses were upgraded to blue silicone from IPD, FCP, and Snaab. All upper oil seals are new. Also upgraded to an R-type exhaust manifold. I only run Mobil1 and have no problems with the Turbo.
The only wear items I didn't replace were the water pump, oil pump, and timing belt... and the oil cooler hoses.
Are these hoses are known failure point?
Older picture btw. I also have the MSD coil upgrade.
|
|
-
|
|
|
The oil lines are for the oil cooler at the radiator. The joins at the flexible to rigid lines are starting to leak. This is not a high pressure line, but enough heat to cause trouble. Each line is about $150 or so, replacement is fairly easy, except for the %^*** screw that holds the lines to the block.
Klaus
--
There is no present time, just the past and future
|
This post has been marked as an answer to the original question.
|
-
|
|
|
is this a good piece of service to perform along with the timing belt? that is, will access be any better if I'm "in there" anyway?
|
|
-
|
|
Klauss is right on.
I have to change them on the 850 (which I think is very similar to the C70) but have been putting it off due to the expense.
When they leak, they make a terrible mess and are a pain to change because of all that filth.
I don't think it is any easier to do it when the timing belt is changed.
I was thinking that it may be easier to change if the radiator was removed to open things up in there, but really haven't taken that close a look yet.
|
|
-
|
|
|
The right front wheel has to come off to expose the solenoid that controls the oil flow. Both pipes are secured to the solenoid with a torx screw and and O ring.
Waiting to do the Tbelt will also accomplish no time savings.
Do NOT remove the radiator, it buys you nothing! The hardest bolt is the 10mm that holds the 2 oils, via bracket, to the block and just under the compressor. Getting the bolt off is fairly easy, easier on the 850, but a 6" extension and a swivel is required.
I took the solenoid off because I couldn't get the new pipes/gasket back on easily. I had to clean off the mating surface so the new O rings would slide into place. If you take yours off, note the placement of the rubber gasket for the solenoid. A thin layer of oil will hold it in place for installation.
Volvo speed has a few threads on having the flex portion of the piping replaced at a specility shop. Probably worth a search.
Klaus
--
There is no present time, just the past and future
|
|
-
|
|
|
Probably worth finding a specialty repair shop, but I've discovered that I have rapid and serious oil loss from my hoses... I've ordered OEM replacements from tasca and will check into a reputable rehab shop for a rebuild solutions.
Seems like the C70 heater and oil cooler hoses, as well as the 940 power steering hoses suffer the exact same failure. There's got to be a better replacement option that tossing the whole assembly due to a bad seal or a failed crimp...
Regardless, time is short and I've got to have a good part on the car ASAP
|
|
-
|
|
|
I don't consider an oil/coolant line that has lasted for 14 years a failure. All of these lines tend to fail at the crimp junction and not the hose itself.
The cost is too high, I agree, but the piece of mind for another 15 years of operation is pretty good. The only problem I had was the #$%#%@ 10mm bolt that held the lines to the block.
Klaus
--
There is no present time, just the past and future
|
|
-
|
|
|
See what you mean about that bolt. Not the first I've run into where re-installation is next to impossible.
My big issue is getting the rearward oil seal to join up. The dang thing just doesn't want to go all the way in, no matter how much fresh oil or silicone spray I use on it.
These are new OEM Volvo hoses, so this is really becoming a disappointment...
|
|
-
|
|
|
You mean the O ring won't go into the solenoid easily? I had to reem out the crud first. Don't force it! The O ring will/must go in easily.
The salt/dirt was not easy to get off the solenoid. I used a very small screwdriver to gently rub the dirt off. Once clean it slipped right on.
Klaus
--
There is no present time, just the past and future
|
|
-
|
|
|
Got it eventually. there wasn't really any crud in there, but I did clean it.
The O-ring was just being a pita. I think it swelled slightly.
I could slide the fitting in w/o the ring easily, and could fit the ring inside easily, but even with the o-ring installed into the solenoid housing, I still couldn't get the fitting to slide smoothly against the ring.
after some more lube, and finally getting the retainer plate in place, it finally seated itself.
Mr. 10mm was a nightmare - No amount of extensions or knuckles was quite adequate to get it to seat itself. There's just too much in the way. I finally got it started and eventually realized that it had cross-threaded...
Oh well. Have to take care of that later...
Took so long, I've postponed my planned T-Belt replacement again. It's got at least another 15-20k on it, so it's not critical today...
|
|
-
|
|
|
Not to worry about the cross thread. Its only purpose is to hold the lines in place.
I told you it is a PITA! It took me 4 hours to get the 10mm started. Boy, was I sore the next day!
Klaus
--
There is no present time, just the past and future
|
|
-
|
|
|
4 hours?! Damn. I didn't have that sort of patience.
I'd say that the best part is when I was first trying to remove it. I was using a 1/4-3/8 wobble end, which worked great for removal - until it got wedged against the 14mm head of the AC bolt - probably stripping some aluminum before I realized what had happened. I attempted to remove the 14mm AC bolt, but it was the proverbial immovable object and there was no space to move even a ratcheting wrench.
I'm still thinking about the IPD Phenolic Spacer kit. Removing the intake to install that kit would give me a good opportunity to go after Mr 10mm nightmare bolt with fewer restrictions. I'm really lucky that I didn't break my hand while I was under there. I was actually able to shove my head up into the small cavity to see the bolt, but now I've got oil in my hair. :)
I'm going to try and excise all any and all URO parts from the car, which will also give me a good excuse to get down under the intake (Oil Trap and PCV Hose is URO)...
Fun stuff all-around. This engine sometimes feels like a big F-You from Uncle Olaf
|
|
-
|
|
|
fair enough. 15 years is pretty good. It just seems like these combo rubber/crimped hoses are needlessly wasteful. If only the hose could be replaced, then you'd only have to replace the part that failed.
That bolt... did it strip or break...?
|
|
-
|
|
|
you can indeed replace just the hose, as long as you can get suitable hose. Regular heater hose works for replacing heater/coolant lines. I'm not sure what I'd use for oil/trans/etc.
Just cut the crimps off (use a cutoff wheel and cut lengthwise) and use regular hose clamps on the pipe. Maybe use two, since they're so cheap, for peace of mind.
Unicoils help in the bends
http://www.gates-unicoil.com/
You can also take your old hose assembly to have new rubber lines attached at a hydraulics shop. They should have the appropriate hose also.
--
1998 V70 AWD->FWD->AWD Turbo 220k+
|
|
-
|
|
|
Humm... oil and tranny fluid require special hose, I recall that from when I installed the Magnafine filters on my 940. I've already ordered new OEM hoses for the oil system... but I am worried about the heater hoses.
I was broke and desperate when they failed, so I went URO, before I realized just how shitty that brand is. It's a wonder they've held up for the last year...
I do wonder if the heater hoses could be replaced in the same fashion...
|
|
-
|
|
|
Niether. The bottom AC bolt is so close you can only get a 1/4 inch 10mm ratchet on it, and not square. Taking it off wasn't the problem, getting the bolt started again was my problem. My hands are too big to get into the small space and it cannot be started with a ratchet.
I used a 6" extension with a swivel. Put the front of the car on jack stands, slide under the engine feet first so your wrist bends in the proper direction. The single bolt holds both lines.
I R&R'ed one line at a time so I could remember the proper routing. Then I attached the lines to the solenoid before securing the 10MM bolt. The right front wheel must come off to access the solenoid.
My solenoid was so dirty and crusted, I had to clean it before I could put the new lines and O rings on. The round gasket for the solenoid was held in place with a little oil.
Klaus
--
There is no present time, just the past and future
|
|
-
|
|
|
I just dealt with something similar replacing my driver's side seatbelt. No fun whatsoever. Could get a socket or a wrench over the bolt. Couldn't get the bolt started because things were so tight...
I do have a set of ratcheting wrenches (including 10mm) that have paid for themselves several times over. I also have small hands, so I hope that this will work out. The new hoses should be here by Friday so unless it's raining, I'll be doing this repair this weekend.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Well our friend the 10mm bolt is now mis-threaded, but can't see a way around until until I get the "front" of the engine off. New hoses finally seated and are leak-free.
Thanks for the input. On to the next leak/seep Will eventually get it all stopped...
|
|
|
|
|
