I've got a hot battery cable (resistance is getting to high). I have read about replacing this cable with OE or aftermarket but what I wanted to know is if it makes sense to replace both the alternator to starter cable as well as starter to battery cable?

Is there a better way to route these cables than the stock routing? I'm guessing the engine vibration led to the breakdown of the cable connections in the first place.

RGW

I resolder the terminals. Use a mini propane torch, heat the terminal, and allow solder to wick into the terminal. It works

This is an interesting idea. Is it just the terminal at the battery that has the problem or do the terminals at the starter and alternator also need to be soldered?

I decide to go the soldering route. Sure enough, when I stripped a 1/4 inch of insulation from the bottom of the positive battery lead I found many wires broken and corroded.

I solved the problem with my propane torch and lots of solder. I covered the exposed 3/4 of wire below the terminal with solder and heated it well enough that the solder flowed into every space between the wires and within the terminal as well. I then taped it up well enough that it won't be exposed to the elements.

After I started the engine up, I verified 14.1 volts at the battery positive terminal and 14.1 volts at the alternator output as well -- no longer a voltage drop between the two. Hopefully this repair will last another 10 years like the original wire did.

Idea mentioned above is wonderful.

I'd sugget that while you are there poking around you also review and address any ground issues. IIRC in 2006 when I had an S70 the chassis ground was oxidized and caused a few issues for me. I cleaned this ground up as well as the alternator output as well and things were much better.

While you're there it would probably be smart to clean and treat the battery terminals.

Steve