As I said in earlier posts I am tackling the timing belt on Saturday. I think I only have one more quick question. I just got my timing belt kit in and it mentions a special crankshaft pulley holding tool. Is that needed? Is ther something that can be used in its place? Do auto parts stores carry a generic form of this. In advice here would be great ...thanks

Remember, your 2005 is not an 850. The timing marks on the cam gears are different. You have CVVT.
You need to lock the cams before removing the cam cover.

Klaus
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What is the best way to lock the cams?

Thanks Klaus. So is there any need to buy this tool or something else work?

Generics are sold at autoparts stores, IPD has one for the 5 cyl engine. You put it on after the marks are lined up and before belt removal. Take it off after the tensioner is released and you are ready to turn the crank by hand for 720 degrees.

Klaus
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IPD? Is that independent parts dealers? Do you know if Auto Zone, NAPA, O'Riely, or Advance would have one for a 5 cylinder? How much? Thanks

IPD is in Portland, OR http://www.ipdusa.com/

The number of cylinders does not matter, just that it is for a dual overhead cam. The generics usually clamp using the large holes in the sprockets, accomplishing the same thing.

Klaus
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Did you do your Random Act of Kindness today?

After doing the timing belt on my 2003 V70 2.4, I've come to the conclusion that the damper pulley doesn't need to be removed. I've since read posts on either this site or Mathews Volve Site that confirm this. You will need to remove the plastic dirt shield that runs undernieth the sprocket - (2) 10mm hex bolts I believe.

People that have done it this way claim it is harder to remove the old belt than to insert the new. If that's the case, maybe just cut the old belt and pull it through.

I'm going to try it this way when I do my wife's S80 belt (within the next couple thousand miles). If it doesn't work, then hey, what was lost? Go ahead and remove the damper then.

The catch is, once the old belt is removed, you don't want to be turning the crank shaft independant of the cams - piston/valve contact could occur ($Ouch$).

I can confirm for you that the crank pulley (harmonic balancer/damper) doesn't need to be removed. You /do/ have to remove the little guard you mentioned.

Also it /IS/ much easier to put on than take off. I have never had a crank pulley off to look at what the belt binds up on, but holy god is it hard to work off. There is something in behind the crank pulley that makes it damn near impossible to get out. Maybe if you knew what it looked like back there you would know how to twist it or whatever... anyway I wrestled with mine for over an hour before I finally reluctantly cut the old one (no turning back!) and to my delight the new one slipped right on. First try, no fuss at all. Easiest part of the job. Don't be afraid to cut the old belt.

Also, if the #1 cylinder is at TDC my engine didn't want to turn on it's own. The crank stayed put and the cam gears were more difficult to turn than I had anticipated. Remember they've got valve springs holding things in a certain orientation inside the head. I found there to be no problem keeping things in place, even while I unbolted the ungodly number of fasteners on the water pump with my arms brushing up against the un-belted cam gears the whole time. I was being careful, but it just wasn't that easy to move them. YMMV because my engine doesn't have any CVVT stuff..


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1998 V70 AWD->FWD->AWD Turbo 220k+