I need to change driver's side axle. Dealer mechanic says it's failing on side going into the transaxle. They want about $800 to do it.

Need advice:

1. Seems straightforward except for the mention of clip holding the trans-axle side in place. Where is this clip? How do I remove it?

2. What do I buy?

Autozone has a lifetime limited warranty rebuilt (rebuilt Original Volvo right?) for $80.

IPD has an EMPI (new, chinese) for about $120

FCP has lifetime replacement DSS (new chinese) for about $90

Original Volvo from Tasca is $330 plus $75 core charge (new?)
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I'm stuck on Volvo and Volvo's stuck on me....

Not that I don't trust dealers, but take a look at the inner boot. Is it cracked, is grease spit all over the area? Is it making noise? None of the above means keep on driving until it does.

A CV joint will start complaining long before it falls apart, you will hear the noise while driving. Normally, if the boot cracks badly and the grease is slung out, you have about 10K miles before the wheel falls off. LOL

The Tasca price is for new OEM. Quite expensive, but it fits right.

IPD EMPI is OK, but make sure you get a new seal with the axle.

Read the 'fine print' for the lifetime warrantee that FCP has.

Removing the left axle is a little harder than the right side because of the clip. Just use a large screwdriver or small prybar to force the axle out. When you put the new axle in, it will 'click' into place.

Klaus

"Clunk" from Drive to Reverse, etc.

Mechanic did temporary fix, "metal glue", I believe it's a type of threadlock or loctite product. Held about 30,000 miles or so.

Told me about 5,000 miles ago it failed on the transaxle side. I know nothing about half-axles, or how they fail.

Do the splines strip on the hub or transaxle side? I'm going off on a tangent here, but if it stripped how do I know the hub or the transaxle has not stripped out? Is there a mini-universal joint in the assembly that fails? Are there shops out there that take the axle out, repair it, and put it back?

If he glued it, does that mean there's going to be some left over glue inside the hub or transaxle? Am I supposed to used metal glue when I put in a new one? In a refurbishment axle, exactly what do they replace?

I'm a little in the dark here, because I lack experience. Should the replace the transaxle seal? Is it straightforward, like a camshaft seal, that you carefully pick out and tap in the replacement?
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I'm stuck on Volvo and Volvo's stuck on me....

He glued the axle splines? Lets hope the problem is in the axle and not the output shaft from the differential.

Most refurbished axles just have the CV joints rebuilt and lubed and booted.

The seal gets picked out and tapped back in.

If this were my car and I had to rely on it, I would bite the bullet and let the dealer fix it. At least I would have a 1 year on parts and labor.

Klaus

The "clunk" is where the axle splines meet the hub. Not the tranny side. They only "glue" the hub side. The tranny side is soaked in trans fluid... Glue would never work.

It seems the "glue" is a green loctite product. Not sure which one.

Question is there appears to be a "fix" offered on the xc60. A special axle bolt with a rubber grommet. Heard of this?

The rest of the axle assembly seems to be fine.
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I'm stuck on Volvo and Volvo's stuck on me....

This is new territory for me. The hub should bolt down reasonably tight to the shaft, regardless of bolt size. And a rubber grommet?

Klaus
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Did you do your Random Act of Kindness today?

Offered by IPD.

Check the link.

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6251/30714142-axle-bolt-anti-ping
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I'm stuck on Volvo and Volvo's stuck on me....

Good find! Looks like a winner.
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Did you do your Random Act of Kindness today?

# 30714142

About to place an order with Tasca. I'll change them and put a response in the thread. Too bad I gave the dealer $$$ for glue. Thanks for looking into this with me and confirming my finding.
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I'm stuck on Volvo and Volvo's stuck on me....

This is a replacement axle bolt.

Volvo lists this as 'spacer'; part number is 30714142. I paid about $20.

IPD sells it, and here's a link:

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6251/114277-axle-bolt-with-rubber-insulator-anti-ping

Some call the r-to-d clunk.....'ping'

It seems to have done the trick. If it fails I'll post again later in the same thread. Meantime, I think this is the fix.
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I'm stuck on Volvo and Volvo's stuck on me....