1998 V70, 321k -- I am planning on replacing the clutch (original) - no slipping yet, but the pedal is at the top when it engages. The instructions in the blue book seem too involved -- basically support the engine from the top and remove the subframe from under it. I'm thinking on unbolting the whole subframe / engine assembly and taking it out to do the work out of the car. I plan on replacing the engine seals and subframe bushings while all is out. Any opinions on this approach? I have a 2-ton shop crane and a lift - just need to figuire how I am going to balance the car on the lift when the engine weight is removed - probably a come-a-long to the trainer hitch. The engine and transmission don't need any work -- running fine with no leaks, no codes, and getting 26-28 mpg.

Hello,


You should refit the engine with new rings. Replace the clutch secondarily.

These parts are not going to be around forever...


Goatman

New rings on an alloy engine? The hardened sleeves don't last as long as the rings. Except for the extremely rare instance of a broken ring, I have yet to see a 5 cyl engine with ring or sleeve wear.

A preemptive clutch replacement in this case is good, it will last another 200K+ miles of fun driving.

Klaus
--
Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

I assume tnat you plan to replace the slave cylinder and the release bearing while you are in there.

OK -- looks like the slave cylinder is internal and will have to be replaced. Checked the book (which is for 850 1992 - ) that clearly shows the external cylinder, and it is not what I have. When new I took the car to the dealer for a recall involving the clutch slave cylinder coming out of its mounting. Now I'm wondering what they did or if it applied to my car at all.

release bearing - yes. Slave cylinder, no - it is outside the transmission and can be done anytime. Besides I have been flushing the brake & clutch fluids annually since the car was new.

Verrrry Interrrresting!!

The slave is internal on my 98 V70 Base.

I had heard that some were external.

Lucky You!!!

My sister had a base S70 with an internal clutch slave too.

PITA to change if anything goes wrong. I limped it along for her for a while by bleeding the system every day, but eventually even that couldn't keep the pressure in the system....
--
1998 V70 AWD->FWD->AWD Turbo 215k+

They changed the clutch slave cylinder arrangement in mid-1998. Mine is the early version -- I got it off the dealer lot in early Oct. 1997.

And here is what you face when an internal slave fails:

http://s1128.photobucket.com/albums/m481/spriggsbucket/1998%20Volvo%20V70%20Clutch/

$1681 later, I had a new slave as well as a new rear main seal and clutch kit.

The major cost is getting inside, so it seemed prudent to do those other replacements while we were in there, hence my earlier suggestion.

I also learned that even my experienced indie can order the wrong kit containing the wrong release bearing. The one pictured is NOT the one which was ultimately installed. It is only a nifty paper-weight.

Hey -

If you need practice I have a 95 850 with 320k miles that needs a clutch you can practice on! Unfortunately in my case I have no equipment to pull subframe so mine likely headed for the scrapyard or a donation to the kid in college who has a 'friend' with a lift... but I know how that would probably go and I don't want a REALLY dead car in the yard!

Good Luck!

Ken

You don't need a clutch. With a little careful engine rev matching, the gears will mesh without grinding.

I drove my 1964 Beetle for months without a clutch, the only problem was engaging 1st. I solved that by putting it in 1st while stopped with the engine off, then hitting the starter when the light turned green with a little gas.

But, I feel for you. The mechanics fee to do an all day job is outrageous. They even want $1500 to replace the clutch on my 1967 122. I am getting too old to lift the tranny back into position while lying under the car.

Klaus
--
Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

I watched a guy at a dealer do just that. Car was on a 4 post lift. He unbolted the subframe and lifted the car. He had one other trick, a fork lift to support the subframe!!!

Klaus
--
Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.