OK, I finished the PCV job tonight and started her up. I still see smoke coming from the dipstick, but after I let it run for 20 minutes it didn't smoke as much, but alas still smoking. Any suggestions? I read about checking the PTC valve? What is that and where can I find it? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

David

Your NA engine does not have a PTC. You did clean out the PVC and threw away the plastic screen, right? The small hose that goes to the PVC was clean or replaced? You did change the oil and filter after the operation?

The hose routing diagrams on the FCP website are incorrect. The 2 large hoses on top of the oil separator box, the one on the passenger side goes to the top of the manifold next to the oil filler cap. The center one goes to the PVC. If they are indeed backwards, just reach under and feel, you will have to remove the manifold again to move them.

Klaus
--
Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

I did throw away the screen, in fact replaced the whole tubing from the throttle body to the air box. I did NOT change oil yet though. I bought some seafoam and was thinking of running 1/2 bottle in the crankcase. Would you recommend this? Also, if I do it, how long should I run it before I change the oil. I purchased 2 bottles of Auto RX that should be here sometime later this week and was going to mix that with conventional oil for about 3,000 miles each bottle. Am I on the right path?

Good lord, you only need one bottle of AutoRx and run it about 1,000 miles. In that case, keep the old oil because it is going to get dirty!

Don't you put seafoam in the tank, to clean the injectors? I wouldn't put it in the crankcase, expecially if you are going the AutoRx route.

After the cleaning, replace the oil cap seal unless you have done that already.

Klaus
--
Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

I already changed the gasket for the oil cap filler. I was going to run seafoam because I currently use synthetic and I Auto RX recommends regular motor oil. The plan was to run seafoam in the crankcase, then change to regular motor oil with the Auto RX for the next 2 oil changes (3,000 mile intervals). You suggest I forget about the seafoam and just go with the RX?

Synthetics generally build up much less sludge than conventional oils, so I am surprised that the engine already has synthetic in it. Yes, wait for the oil change to regular dino oil at 10W30, the real cheap stuff. Then add the AutoRx.

Note the cam that you can see through the oil cap. All of that brown stuff should be gone when the AutoRx is finished cleaning. If you have a RMS leak, keep the AutoRx in the oil for at least 3K miles, or until the leak goes away. AutoRx will not repair the RMS if the leak is too large.

AutoRx for a reasonable engine using systhetic will clean the engine during the first 1,000 miles. 3,000 for a dirty engine.

I would still read the back of the Seafoam bottle and see if it can be added to the gas tank, rather than the block. You will soon be using AutoRx anyway.

Klaus
--
Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.