Real Volvo t-stats have a "burp hole" in the diaphragm. I observed and

maintained the orientation of the factory original (towards front of car)

when I replaced mine.

I was unable to maintain the 87 dC rating of the original however; the

dealer was only able to obtain the 90 dC rated one. Some folks have seen

their temp gauge needle sit above horizontal after repl 87 w/90 degree

unit, but mine always sat a little too high, so it made no difference to

my car's gauge (except that it now goes up to just beyond halfway and

stays there, regardless of the temp, as it did before the 'stat became

feeble).

There is/are [an] aftermarket 87 dC 'stat, but I'm not sure it has a burp

hole.

The rearward T40 torx screw is impossible to reach at a zero angle w/o

removing fuel rail etc. I needed a special/long T40 bit (a SnapOn*,

borrowed from a pro) [which worked even] after my 1/4" bit/socket's extra

width and extra angle induced me to strip the tops of half the torx splines

of the screw head. The screw threads exhibited a white powdery corrosion,

and required a surprising amount of torque (more than a 1/4" tool is meant

to deal with) to break free. (Newer screws are black; mine were silver.)

I put mine back in with plenty of anti-seize compound.

> Should I pick up a Haynes

For $16.95 direct from Haynes (for my #3260 euro manual; haynes.com now

says "97050 - 850 Series all models ’93 thru ’97"), it's hard to

rationalize NOT having one. As I recall (it's been a while), I reached

them at 800-4-HAYNES

As it suggests, I drained coolant from radiator first, making the job very

dry/neat. I found it a bad idea, however, to follow Haynes' advice to

disconnect the little hose from the t-stat housing. The reservoir easily

unclips (slide it upward), which will give you a little more slack on the

little hose.

The job is very quick/easy, iff you can get the 2 screws out.

- Dave; '95 854T, 107K mi