I've been experiencing some problems lately w/my car. Went to start today and it ran for about half a second then quit. When i try to start it gives two quick fires then nothing. It does this everytime i go out to try maybe after an hour or so. i also notice a buzz coming from under the plastic cover over the throttle cable, lasts for a minute or two. It is low on gas right now but that's never kept it from starting before.

Dewey,


How far are you depressing the throttle pedal when trying to start?

Is the check engine lamp lit?


Goatman

No on the check engine lamp.
I never depress it at all and always starts perfect. This time it started and stoped straight away without any gas. After a while i did depress all the way to the floor in desperation and nothing at all.

Just a side note. When you depress the gas pedal to the floor while the starter is being engaged, the injectors will turn off. This method is used for a flooded engine for all fuel injected cars.
If you wish to add gasoline when starting, push the pedal about 1 inch or so while cranking.

Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

The buzz is probably the idle air control motor, active when the key is in pos II or III.

Listen for the fuel pump when you first turn the key to posII. If you don't hear it, it could be the fuel pump relay.

Or the fuel filter is clogged.

Or a bad pump.

Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

I hear the buzz of the fuel pump for sure.
I changed the fuel filter but now that I think of it was probably 60k miles ago.
Thanks.

Given the size of the fuel filter and the better quality of gasoline, It should go an easy 100-150K miles before it needs changing.

One thing to look for is the security light on the top of the dash. Once you turn the key to posII, it is still blinking? Or does that only pertain to 1999+ cars with the embedded chip key?

Have you checked for any codes eventhough the check engine light is off?

Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

I don't have the tool to check codes. Maybe I should invest in one. never pay any attention to the security light. I'll check. check engine light is off. I put a little more fuel in it today, it has about 4 gallons in it did no good. The first few revolutions it pops off then quites straigt away. Could be pump as I've never had to change it although the car has 205k miles now.

It really does sound like you are running out of fuel pressure. Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator? Specifically, the vacuum line should not have fuel in it.

If you have an old tire pressure tool that you seldom use, check the pressure at the end of the fuel rail. It should be above 40 psi with the engine running, or, in your case, just after the key is turned to posII and before start.

You could pull out the fuel pump relay, #103, jump the leads 15 & 87, and then try to start the car. The jumped leads will leave the fuel pump running constantly while the ignition is on. Careful, a paper clip will get very hot, rapidly.

Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

So if it starts with the leads jumped what does that mean? If i hear hte buzz of the fuel pump for a few seconds there is no way hte fuel pump relay is bad, right?

Dewey, IF you live in a cold climate you could have water in your gas. I have had a similiar problem twice this winter both times cured with two bottles of dri-gas or heat, that is alcohol.

I live in MN but i thought the ethanol in gas solved that problem.

I am just trying to elimate variables. Yes, the FP relay could fail and still work for the priming position. I also want to verify that the pump is active while the starter is running.

Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

My friend came over today, we were going to work on the car. As I'm trying to start and he's standing outside he notices the intercooler upper hose is collapsing. I disconnect the hose and it starts. It runs for a minutes and quits unless i hold the gas down a little. Got it in the garage and fired up the kerosene heater. Must be ice again inside. If the lower intercooler was plugged would hte upper collapse? or does that mean the obstruction is near the radiator in front of the upper hose?

The air flow is from the air cleaner -> turbo -> bottom of the IC -> top of the IC -> Throttle body.

If there is ice in the InterCooler or the bottom feed line, when the system plugs up, a hose will collapse before the throttle body. The engine takes that much air to run!!

Remove the bottom IC hose from the IC unit after it thaws, some water may leak out. You live in a damp climate and moisture must have built up in the IC tubing or the IC itself.

I hope the cooling fan is not running when you turn on the engine, that will only make things worse.

Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

I'm not going to get to the car in a couple days. Thanks Klaus and others for all the suggestions. I'll post again when i get to it.

When you do get to it, rule out the MAF by unplugging it with ignition off. If it starts and runs, okay. Whether it does or not, turn off the ignition before plugging it back in. If it's unplugged, the car goes into default configuration, not good for driving, but will get you home if you're not.


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'96 850T and '83 244 DL both at about 200K, '97 850T5; gone but not forgotten '81 245 and '64 Amazon

I tried the disconnect of the MAF, didn't work