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This post got way too long. So I put the questions up top in hopes of getting some responses to questions rather than just putting people to sleep. Thank you for your thoughts and read on down below if you want to hear my thoughts on this P2 V70.
-Will
Questions:
-- Are the Buick-esque suspension dynamics normal?
I believe much of the suspension is original and therefore at 200K miles is getting due for replacement. But lacking any clunks, creaks or rough ride I hesitate to pour money into replacing parts that don’t need replaced. I also don’t want to turn it into a rough riding beast by dropping big bucks into Bilstein HDs. For the first time I find myself considering IPD sways to tighten things up. Thoughts and opinions welcomed.
-- This car has 16 inch wheels. Is my extra set of 15” 850 “Cetus” wheels going to fit this car? (I know, I should just get out there and try it.)
-- Will this car hate regular (87 octane) gas?
In the past I’ve just left it up to the computer/knock sensor to deal with it but this is my first turbo car.
-- Should I consider anything more than switching to synthetic to clean up the engine?
I don’t think this car has been babied when it comes to oil changes. Records from the Volvo garage indicate “synthetic blend”, the local indie garage doesn’t specify. I suspect (hope) it went to a jiffy lube type place in between the bigger services. The engine looks dirty. The cam lobes on my 203K mile 850 look cleaner and it’s almost always seen regular dino oil.
-- At what boost pressure does the LPT run?
I had hoped my ScanGauge would feed me this tidbit of data but alas, it does not.
-- Should I be concerned over the proper operation of the CBV lacking any apparent symptoms?
At 200K it wouldn’t surprise me to find that the diaphragm has degraded.
-- Any guidance on where to mount the ScanGauge?
Right now it’s stuffed in the center between the steering column and the gauge pod. Visibility is poor and it can’t stay there permanently unless tilt/telescope of the wheel is never adjusted.
The car:
So I bought myself a 2001 V70 2.4T. I’m quite happy with it. It’s the car wanted. At 199K, the miles are a little ridiculous, but I trust the person I bought it from (LP’s coworker) and was comforted by the service history which included much of the big things to look out for like the transmission software upgrades and fluid flush and ABS controller replacement. Engine looks dusty on the outside, dirtier inside the oil filler cap than I’d like it to be.
First impressions:
Six years ago I moved from a 20y/o 240 into a nine y/o 850. That was a major upgrade in just about every category. Not surprisingly, the jump from 850 to the P2 V70 is less of an enhancement. However it’s still clear that Volvo continued to learn and improve between producing the 850 and the P2 cars. The cabin is extremely comfortable, even more so than the 850. The center stack layout is cohesive and puts everything within fingertip’s reach from the shifter. The bigger wheelbase and size of the car is apparent and adds to comfort in my opinion.
Suspension:
The size is also apparent when driving. It feels like a bigger car. It doesn’t turn quite as quick as the 850. The suspension is supple over bumps and it doesn’t roll excessively, but honestly it feels a little like a Buick… It over dips in the road is bobs and floats. Dive and lift on braking and acceleration is noticeable.
Engine:
The light pressure turbo 2.4 has considerable pep and moves this car faster than the non-turbo 850. While the 850’s manual transmission makes it feel sportier (along with the aforementioned shorter wheelbase and less boat-like dynamics) there is no doubt which car would win in a drag race. It would win and do it in a quieter more subdued way. The engine is smoother, feels more balanced. The turbo helps smooth out and quiet the exhaust. Still not inline six silky smooth, but an improvement over the other fives I’ve experienced. Still too early to tell on economy. I’m only halfway through a tank of mid-grade, averaging 21mpg on mostly city driving.
Transmission:
The turbo engine’s low-end torque is important to have when paired with the five-speed automatic with lock-out torque converter. The transmission hunts between gears a lot as it is. The normally aspirated V70 I drove did the same thing but it was even more noticeable since the engine was working that much harder. The 197hp and 210ft-lbs torque also come in handy on the highway because this thing has long legs. My gauge has always been the speed at 3000rpm in top gear. The 5-speed 850 reaches that RPM at about 75mph, our Mini Cooper at 82mph and this V70 at a whopping 90mph. I suspect this is the direction that most manufacturers have gone - more and higher gears to eek out more economy.
I’m really missing the ability to select each gear. Engine braking is a challenge. One can shift from drive into 4, 3, or Low. At less than highway speeds, 4 doesn’t do much and neither does 3. Low is well, low. It’s especially frustrating because you can freely move the selector from dive to neutral but you have to depress the shifter button to go from drive into a lower gear. This is completely backwards to me – probably because the 240 auto shifter works in the opposite manner.
All in all this car presents as a logical progression for a car company that was moving further and further towards the luxury end of the market. It is very practical but at the same time has the ability to be fun. For all the improvements over the 850, there are certain aspects of the experience that I will miss. Always a compromise to be made.
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854 / 244 / Mini
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My one and only experience with Jiffy Lube was finding the lock on the transmission dip stick bent out of the way after my daughter took our 745 there. We also bought a used 745 that had been to another Jiffy Lube regularly - it had a bent dipstick lock also!
When I discussed this with the manager, he apologized and said that their people were not trained to do this, but he never denied that they bent it!
As for high test, I strongly recommend it. Your premise that the knock sensor will take care of octane assumes that the sensor works. Older engines have carbon on the pistons, possibly making matters worse.
Also, I don't know about other cars, but I have read in a shop manual that the first action that occurs when the sensor acts up is a richening of the muxture, then the timing is adjusted. This is because the extra fuel can stop the knock and cool the cylinder at the same time and is faster than changing the timing.
I keep track of every gallon of fuel that I buy, and have seen a loss of 3-4 mpg on a trip using regular by accident.
Engine braking can be useful and fun. but unless you do it properly, you can subject the drive train to forces greater than the power that the engine can produce.
I think that an automatic transmission is suited to the characteristics of a turbo engine.
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'96 855R,'64 PV544 driver, '67 P1800 basket case, '95 855, '95 854, the first three are mine, heh, heh, 485,000 miles put on 9 bricks
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I have no worries about Jiffy Lube type places, strictly DIY for my cars.
I'll do some experimenting with different shades of gasoline come the holidays when I'll be putting lots of long miles on it. I've tried it out on my 850 and Mini Cooper and never noticed a difference in power or economy between the 92 and 87 octane flavors. Honestly that surprised me given the high compression ratios these new engines have. This V70 is of course a different beast given that it is turbocharged.
When I went looking for this car I resigned myself to an automatic. That's one of the reasons I looked with a preference to the turbo'd varieties. They do lend themselves to automatics. It's unfortunate however that my driving preferences tend towards the control and flexibility of the manual tranny. I won't miss it when I'm stuck in traffic on the interstate though.
--Will
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854 - 244 - Mini
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"Floaty" riding usually means the shocks and struts have fatigued or lost fluid over the years, at least on European cars. I suggest replacements. Of course, old Buicks and LTDs were designed to be floaty, but that was a different era. I recently rented a 2010 Corolla on a business trip that had the most numb, non-responsive steering and handling I have felt in a long time. Quite an engineering trick to tune out or dumb down the crisp handling that should be present in a small, reasonable light car.
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You are absolutely right about the Corolla. Toyota really knows how to take the fun out of driving. Like driving a washing machine down the road.
-Will
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854 - 244 - Mini
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LOL, I like well worded posts that have a lot of info.
Yes, you need new shocks and struts but just buy the cheaper OEM, sachs/boge. Make sure you do not have Nivomats in the rear first.
Get new IPD sway bar endlinks when you do the above.
Keep using synthetic, unless you want to run a quart of AutoRx through the system for 1,000 miles to get rid of all of the gunk.
Clean the PTC nipple to restore engine vacuum. Consider replacing all of the vacuum hoses, at least the elbows that are probably cracking by now.
Do not worry about the turbo until it stops working. The 13psi is not a lot of boost, just helpful.
Use 89 octane at a minimum. Not only does it burn slower, the major companies have better cleaning additives in mid and premium grades.
If the tranny fluid has not been flushed in the last 50K miles, do that.
Never take your car to a fast oil change place. DIY.
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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Thanks, a lot of info I'll give you, I think the jury is still out on well worded. When I was all done I realized that I had crafted a review of the car... nine years too late!
I will definitely be using Synthetic in this car, probably the same Mobil One the Mini gets (along with a Mann filter). I'll also be cleaning that PTC nipple. Perhaps that will help clear up the erratic idle I've been noticing during the first couple minutes after starting first thing in the morning. That will all happen soon when I install the serpentine and timing belts, roller and tensioner and water pump that just came in. Technically it could wait another 10K miles, but there's no sticker under the hood and I have records only back to 114K.
With what you guys are telling me and the more I drive it, the more I'm coming around to the idea of worn struts. You see, I'm used to a rough(er) ride and my first car (an '82 244) developed bad struts that completely transformed the car from a smooth rider to a slamming, bobbing down the road kind of thing. I suppose these newer cars cope with it better.
I may go with Sachs/Boge but gee whiz, my wallet is telling me to try out the Monroe's that IPD sells. $85 sounds a lot better than $145 (@FCPGroton) especially when I'm also springing for OEM spring seats and strut mounts.
I've been away for a while. How's Cynthia's 122 and did I see that you got another FWD brick?
--Will
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854 - 244 - Mini
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I have had fantastic results with Bilstein HD shocks and strut inserts. HD are the ones for stock springs, rather than shorter springs. The HDs would be my recommendation. (Not Monroe!)
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Zena is alive and well in my garage, waiting for me to find the tranny leak. A great car with a lot of heart.
Yes, I bought back my 1998 V70R with 185K miles on it. It only needed a few things and now runs as good as it ever did. But the garage is full!
You need new shocks, front and rear. and XC90 spring seats. You want control when you hit bumps, not float.
I am on vacation this week in Colorado. Just a slow time...
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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Eek! If you like "sporty" handling like I think you do, DONT use the Monroe struts. I installed them on a Saab, and it lost the "sportiness" it had even with 17-year old shocks. It actually MADE it ride more like our Buick that we had too. Great riding car, but handled like a pig around corners...I even squealed tires in that car going around turns at 20 mph a couple times.
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FYI
I have the Monroe Sensatracs in my 1998 V70 AWD and I think they're perfectly adequate for a daily driver. Also, I got them 25% off (actually buy one get the second 50% off - same thing) AND they come with a lifetime warranty. Plus I got them locally (Canadian Tire) so no shipping costs. Pretty tough to beat that.
Unless you have 300k miles on them I highly doubt your strut bearings are bad, but highly suspect your spring bushings are bad. Get the OEM XC90 spring bushings or IPD's HD ones. Save the cash on the strut bearings and buy yourself some new rubber - bump stops and the top washer.
Of course if you can afford the extra dough, new strut bearings are preferred, but they do last a long time. Mine had 200k on them and were in perfectly fine shape, despite the previous 10k with bad shocks and spring bushings... I replaced mine anyway because I ordered new ones from FCP but I wouldn't have felt the least bit bad about putting the old ones back on the car.
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1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+
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