I have a 1999 S70 GLT with 115,000 miles on it.
I have 3 mm remaining on my pads on the front.

I was trying to take off the rotor but its rusted on.
I am looking for ideas on how to take off the rotor?

I put the car in neutral so i could turn the rotor hitting it. This allowed me to hit all the points around the rotor.

I seemed to get it to move a little but it was so slight. I put penetrating oil
into the holes on the rotor but so far that hasnt worked. After banging on there
for a few hours i stopped and put things back together. I didnt realize how difficult this was.

Does anyone have any ideas of what to do to break the rotor from its rusted position?

Andrew

Lots of penetrating oil! I then put a small board on the backside of the rotor and hit the board with a 1 lb hammer a few times. It will come off, just keep at it.

Before you put the new rotor on, make sure you take a wire brush and remove all of the rust and dirt. I put a light coat of brake grease on the hub to help keep the rust away.

Klaus
--
Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.

Good trick with the board KlausC.

I always put anti-seize on those parts to keep them loose but the silicone brake grease would probably be just as good and also less expensive.

I am in the habit of using anti-seize everywhere I can in the brakes department because that stuff heat cycles so much and is so exposed to water and road grime - it's a paradise for rust and corrosion and everything is bound to stick together.

--
1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+

I read a tip about this once.

Put the wheel back on and tighten the wheel bolts, then back the wheel bolts off a turn so that the wheel is just a bit loose. You don't want it to 'wobble' because you might bend the wheel, but you want to decouple the rotor from the wheel and hub which will be joined by the wheel studs.

Take the car out into the road in front of your house, and accelerate up to about 15mph and then slam on the brakes as hard as you can. This should cause the brakes to grab the rotor and allow the wheel/hub to keep spinning and it should knock them apart.

Be forewarned no matter how you get it off you will likely end up warping it before you get it off.

Since you're not replacing the wheel bearing/hub you want to be careful not to destroy the bearing pulling and banging in there too.
--
1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+

Take a hammer and hit the center of the rotor. This should break the rust and pop off the hub.

Oh, when you say hit the center of the rotor you actually mean hit the lip of the rotor all around the surface? Right? not actually the center of the hub itself?

But what i dont quite understand is how this might work? There isnt really any free play in there? Sorry if i seem confused, i never this this before. Doing the brakes is fairly easy for a newbie like me but removing the rotor has become a bear of a job.

Andrew

Here is advice I followed when mine got stuck. The part about tapping on the lug-nut studs is what worked for me. And, lots of anti-sieze when putting it back together. (I can't find the original poster to credit for this):

1. If you DON'T plan on changing your rotors (only for re-surfacing):
let some penetrant (Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster) soak on the lug nut studs for as long as you can (where the studs meet the rotor). This is the location of most of the trouble. If you plan on keeping the rotors, don't get any on the "pad area" of the rotor.
Remove the wheel, replace the lug nuts back on the bolts for a couple of turns (so the top of the bolt doesn't show through the nut) and tap the head of the nut swinging towards the car.
don't use a hammer on the pad-area rotor. You can medium-tap the circumference of the center portion of the rotor as you spin it, also. It takes patience (My 1985 BMW 325es rears took me 2 hours). Editor's note: use a soft-faced mallet.
1. If you DO plan on changing the rotors:
Follow the steps above, but with increasing force. If it is STILL stuck, crawl under the car (which must be properly on jack stands), face outward and spin the rotor while WAILING on the outside edge of the rotor with a mallet/hammer (outwards). It WILL eventually come loose.
Just try not to have any part of your body under the rotor when it pops off (usually you can tell it's about to go). Editor's note: use a thin coat of anti-seize on mating surfaces between hub and rotor to easy later disassembly.

Hope this helps.

Wow, i wanted to thank everyone for their good ideas. I was really frustrated by the rotors being rusted on and i was searching on the internet. But i probably should have done nothing and read the posts here. But basically i got some similar info. But thanks to all of you out there i got some good ideas.

I will have to try this again on the weekend or maybe on the next holiday so i have more time since i have to work.

I will get back to everyone to share what happened and what worked well.

Andrew

Hi Everyone,
I wanted to post and update that might help anyone else who has stuck rotors like me.

I got PB blaster a penetrating oil at Schucks. I used the long tube on my normal light oil spray can since this can didnt have one. Shame on them. They should have added it because u cant direct the spray properly if you dont.

I took the wheel off and shot the spray into all the holes and put the car in neutral so i could rotate the rotor and work the oil into all the crevices i could. I let it sit for a few hours and then proceeded to bang on it with a small hammer. I hit the rotor along the lip area in case i needed to use it later if unsuccessful to get it off. I would then take it somewhere for help.

I used awhole can of PB Blaster. After awhile i dark rust colored drip started coming out and i knew it was working. I read impressive comments about PB Blaster on amazon. This stuff really works!

After 2.5 hours i finally got the rotor off. I put anti seize on the mating surfaces on both the new rotor and the hub after i did some sanding to get the rust off the hub.

The rest was pretty easy. I followed directions i found on, www. volvospeed.com

Thanks to everyone for your help and i hope this post will help you as well.

Andrew
1999 S70 GLT 115,000

Wow, I thought mine were bad!

I had to beat the crap out of my left one for about 10 minutes of just whacking the stupid thing with all my strength before it even started to budge.

I've found it always helps to have a big, strong friend around when you're not of big stature yourself.

Well i found that the was rust but more than that there was lots of brake dust that found its way inside the hub/rotor mating surfaces. When the PB Blaster worked that out gaps appeared making it easy to get the rotor off.

But i am 6'1'' and weight 230lbs so i am not a small guy. But still i kept banging on the rotor for along time until it finally broke free.

There was alot of rust on the hub. Maybe its because it rains alot in seattle area?

At any rate i wanted to share my experience with others here. There are alot of nice people here helping each other out.

Andrew
1999 S70 GLT 115,000 miles