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Hello all, I am looking for a good pinpoint chart for my ABS light, I had the ABS computer rebuilt, but the ABS does not work. The sensors have been checked out and all 4 work, so where to next? I also need a break down of a fuel pump replacement. Dealer quoted me 9 hours and 503.00 for the pump, are they for real? My drive shaft is making a sqealing noise and am looking for a rebuild shop I can send it to to rebuild both ends and replace the center bearing. This car is eating a big hole in my wallet. Any help would be a blessing. The car has just over 135,000 miles.
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With the ABS there's only so much that will make the system not run. The module (you say its been rebuilt), the CEM (odds are its not only going to break with the ABS... but maybe), the sensors (you say they've been checked), and the wiring ( thats a lot of wiring to check)..
If possible having the Volvo scan tool read off your codes (aka see dealer) would be the easiest way to diagnose.
Otherwise, I'd check the module. Take it off and make sure the connections are all good (no rust, no bent pins). It is yours that has been rebuilt not a rebuilt one put in, correct? Who rebuilt your module?
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?
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Fuel pump replacement on an AWD Volvo is espensive. The tank is a saddle tank which needs to be dropped, which means the rear suspension needs to come off to access the fuel pump.
There have been at least 2 people here who have cut part of the floor out by the right rear passenger seat to access the pump. But there are a bunch of fuel lines and electric wires right there also. Along with the support for the rear seat.
Welcome to the wonderful world of AWD and electronics. Your best bet would be a Volvo scanner that can give you specific codes for the ABS errors.
The driveshaft comes off easily enough, 16 bolts, marking the shaft first so you can put it back on in the same position. Most shops that work on shafts can replace the center bearing much cheaper than a dealer that wants to replace the entire shaft.
No need to replace the CV joints at either end unless they are loose.
If you take off the drive shaft, put it in the trunk and take it to a shop. FWD works nicely, but your fuel pump is a bother.
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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Thanks for all the post. I have the drive shaft out and the center bearing is bad as well as the front joint. Volvo wants a gran just for the drive shaft and my local machine shop won't touch it. The drive shaft does not come apart in the middle, it is welded together. I had a friend tell me that a 960 driveshaft may have the cv joint, so I am headed to the pick and pull to find out. I will let you know. I found a fuel pump on E-bay 230.00 new, thanks for the offer of selling me one. The shop where I had the ABS checked, unplugged and checked each sensor. The sensor wires run on top of the gas tank in the back sort of so I took the rear seat out so he could get to the sensor plug. I am going to do the fuel pump myself, 800 dollars to put it in at the dealer is just too much. I am going to get dirty and do it myself. Anybody know where I can get my third brake light fixed? Juice in but no juice to LED's
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thanks for the response to our questions.
Did you really pay $230 for a fuel pump? I was going to sell you mine for $50...
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1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+
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Yes, but it was new, Volvo unit. Something that takes 8 hours to install I am not using a used one, it just does not make sence. I am going back to the older Volvo's. I am tired of all the cheap components that break all the time and dealer only programing of new parts.
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It won't take 8 hours to install if you do the 'hole-in-the-floor' method.
Glad you got a new pump for such a low price though. Where did you find that?!
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1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+
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I am not cutting the floor. That is not the right way. This will give me a chance to change the grease in the rear dif and blow off all the dirt and sand that has built up, plus check the upper shock mounts, because I have the Nivomat rear shocks. I saw the butcher job on the link you sent me, NO THANKS.
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I have to agree with you, new pump and drop the tank. Yes, there are a lot of things to R&R, but you also get to inspect bushings and mounts. Also check vacuum hoses and replace the prone to failure "j" hose.
As for flushing the diff: I read somewhere where one guy drove the car for 30 minutes to get the diff fluid warm. He then put in a siphone hose, used a vacuum pump to get the fluid to start to drain, and then siphoned it empty! Slick. With about 3 feet of hose, I would be tempted to slowly suck on it until I saw it start to come down the hose and then stick it in a catch pan.
Use 75/90 synthetic fluid for a limited slip diff. Or buy a liter from Volvo.
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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haha that was my siphon trick. worked like a charm!
It was my butcher job as well.
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1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+
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Sorry, I just can't hack a hole into my car.
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of course Paulii you're entitled to perform repairs any way you see fit.
I don't have the necessary equipment or space to lower the rear suspension/drive assembly the way VADIS explains. Time was of course also a factor, and I knew I could not lay my car up for the amount of time it would take to follow the VADIS repair method.
If I did, I would have loved to do that because I would have run new steel fuel lines and replaced anything rubber up above the tank. Those lines are completely inaccessible with the tank/suspension in place.
Good luck!
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1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+
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a little research would have served you well on the fuel pump issue.
There is an excellent thread on the early AWD fuel pump replacement:
http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/index.htm?id=1362154&show_all=1
You can do the job quite cheaply if you have the time and ambition.
I actually have a spare AWD fuel pump assembly (with a pump) that I need to sell (it was sent here by mistake when I ordered something else) so let me know if you want to buy it. I will sell it for cheap and you will pay to ship it.
As for the prop shaft, I think pretty much any machine shop should be able to do the work you want done. The carrier bearing is not hard to replace at all (I've done it at home using pretty simple tools) and the hard part seems to be keeping the driveshaft balanced (ie: keeping the two halves aligned when you put them back together). A machine shop or a driveline shop will know exactly how to do this and may even be able to balance it for you.
Why do you want the CV joints replaced on the ends? They are pretty expensive. ~$300 each. They could probably do to be regreased, but this is pretty inexpensive. Pop the end caps off and you can pull the whole joint apart if you want to. I completely disassembled one joint to regrease, and decided it was too much work. For the second joint I just heated my grease up (so it would flow good) and poured/squished some into the joint. I did take the cap off for this but you really don't need to - just pour it right down the big center opening. Pulling the cap off let me really push it into the joint though.
Also, with vise and basic shop tools you can do all of this yourself.
When you get the old bearing off you can take it to a local bearing place and order a new one.
You can buy CV grease at most auto stores - make sure to only use real CV grease in CV joints.
You can take the u-joint in the center apart on your own too, but mark it on both halves so you know how to line it up in the balanced position when you put it back together. There are lots of sites that show how to get u-joints apart with a vise.
I'm sorry I can't help you with your ABS problem. How do you know the sensors all work? was the tech who tested them not able to tell you why the system as a whole isn't working?
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1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+
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Hello, Remove the drive shaft if it's making noise. Lots of people have lived "AWD free" while rebuilding. One poster found a rebuilder in/near Denver.
If there's no access hole, drive it dry and drop the tank to get to your fuel pump. Easier said than done but cheaper than having it done. Any indies in your neck of the woods?
ABS light...Did it ever go out? Isn't that a special tool/sophisticated reader or dealer only turn off?
Kira
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Hello - you can check with Colorado Driveshafts, but when I did, they told me they didn't work on 2000 v70 XCs - good luck. I now enjoy my v70 XC non-AWD!
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