Decided to swap out that top motor mount on my non-turbo V70.The center or inner portion (that the bolt went through) was almost hanging loose; cut the one "spoke" with a box-cutter and it came right out.

However, the outer part of the "doughnut" apparently is so dried out it is fused to the inside of the hole it fits through ! I'm scraping with the box cutter and a screwdriver, but that's going to be hard when I get to the upper half of the hole, as I can't get an angle on it with a screwdriver to scrape it out.

Has anyone ever had any luck with anything that revives that rubber a little bit, at least enough to scrape it out with something less than an air hammer ????? I'm hoping if it will soften up a little, I can get it out.

Another example of a 10-minute job turning into a lost afternoon....

Thanks in advance !!!

Use a hacksaw blade to cut through the plastic collar carefully. Do not scar the metal. Once you make the cut, the plastic will come right out. The new 2 piece urethane mount will slip right in. Tighten the bolt very tight.

Hopefully someone else can give you better news, but if I recall, you really need the press tool (or a press tool :-)) to get it out and the new one in.

You're talking about the one on the engine (the 3" or so one, mounted parallel to the ground,) or the one at the car side of the torque arm (1.5" or so, mounted perpendicular to the ground, by the firewall) I'm assuming you're working on the one attached to the engine.

Make sure to take the torque arm out of your way while you're playing with the motor's bushing.


Now here's where it gets tricky if you have to do it yourself.. Take the new bushing with you to home depot. You need to get a long hex screw (6+ inches) two washers that are the same size as the rubber, a 2-4" section of pipe that is larger than the bushing but not so large that it won't fit into the 'female' (the side with 'walls'), measure this before you go. Two washers that are larger than the pipe, and two or three nuts to go on the hex screw. You want a bolt that matches the diameter of the one that was in there to begin with. Make sure you have a wrench that can hold the nut while you turn the head of the bolt, as well as a socket to turn the head of the bold. If you don't pick 'em up..

Anyway, when you get home, assemble the 'mechanism'. You put the head of the bolt, then screw a nut then the two big washers, then the pipe, then you slide it on the mount. Then you put the 'small' washers against the old mount, and tighten the nut against it. Add a second nut if you feel the need. Turn the bolt and hold the nut on the pipe side into place. You'll pull the old rubber through the hole into the pipe. When that's done you can use this assembly sans the pipe to press the new seal into place.

You can also go to autozone and they might have a press tool that will suffice. I doubt it will be designed for your car, but explain what you need, and they might hook you up..



Its been too long I don't know the dimensions off hand, and when I was at school I just bought some 1/4" steel stock and used the CNC machine to make me a few layers on each side. What I would to have a shop comparable to that one..

OK...........I ran across the answer elsewhere after I posted this, but in the meantime, I found that this remaining section of old motor mount is not all rubber - it has an outer ring that is apparently plastic. It is that plastic outer layer that is apparently bonded into that horizontal 3" hole through the mounting bracket. (The inside of the old M.M. all came out long ago - both rubber "spokes" from the outer ring of the mount into the center bolt hole were broken or almost broken).

So, all I'm left with is the outer ring, which appears to be plastic, stuck in the 3" or so hole. Yeah, look like I'm going to have to press out the residual plastic sleeve, IF I can get something that's exactly the same as the new mount (BTW, I'm using an aftermarket mount that someone had recommended to me. It's two-piece, and the pieces rotate into each other on a pin - hard to explain. There's only one way they can go together). SO, that gives me the O.D. of the press tool, b/c it's O.D and the O.D. of the new mount is the same dimension.

Wondered why that part of the rubber wouldn't scrape out. Turns out it wasn't rubber..........:-(.......but it sure is in that bracket tight !!!!!!!!!!!!

Hello, ~$18 (I found the receipt a few days ago). The "rubber spoked" Volvo replacement part slid right in. The plastic sleeve of the old one just peeled away. I used small long nose pliers. The hard ploy mount was completely unacceptable. It made the car shake violently-especially the steering column. Kira

Yes its extremely tight, but then again it is NOT supposed to spin freely, but act as a dampener on the engine vibration. The two piece one *should* go in pretty easily, so thats a good thing. I don't have experience with it though. The OD of that is the same, correct.

You might try cutting it into a couple of pieces if you have a small hacksaw or coping saw. It might gets itself out so you don't need the press, just don't gouge the metal. Using a 'light duty' blade will help prevent damage, though it will likely increase time you spend cutting. The outer shell shouldn't stick to the walls, its just held in by compression and friction, not glue.