I bought a 2000 S70 w/ 112k, that will not start. PO got as gift from father, told me he was driving home from BMV, it stalled at a light, and was never able to get it to start again.
It turns over, but no catch/cough/sputter, nothing like it wants to start.
It cranked slowly, so I pulled battery and charged overnight, no change.
I then used a portable starter pack on it (1500A), still cranks slowly.
Fuel squirts from rail Schrader valve, and observed cam rotation through oil cap.
No OBDII codes recorded, but I checked it after having pulled the battery out.

This car has the individual coil packs for each plug.
I now need to check for spark, but I have a couple questions:
1) Assuming all 5 coils would NOT go bad simultaneously, is there a way to check the electronic signal to them without removing a coil? What is that procedure?
2) If I do need to unbolt the coil unit, just lay it across the engine with a screwdriver inserted to verify spark, as done on a car with plug wires?
3) Any ideas why it cranks so slowly (compared to an 850) ?

TIA, Al
--
Optimist - half full, Pessimist - half empty, Engineer - The capacity is twice what it needs to be.

To check for a spark with coil packs, pull one pack and it's plug. Ground the plug like normal and run the starter. If you fail to ground the plug, you will cook the coil immediately.

There is probably a way to check for electrics at the coil by unplugging it, but the procedure is lost in my grey matter.

Don't forget to check the cam position sensor. Unplug it and check it for resistance at about 200 Ohms.

Clean off the red wires at the battery, you might be getting too much resistance and not 12V at the starter.

Klaus
--
Two good Volvos, a 220 and a V70R

Thanks for the warning on that.
Ah yes, forgot about checking the CPS, great.
Battery connections were very clean and I used a portable starter pack on the outside of those cable connections.
Doesn't that eliminate the battery connection as a trouble source?
Could slow crank be a loose power lead connection at starter?
--
Optimist - half full, Pessimist - half empty, Engineer - The capacity is twice what it needs to be.

You could check the voltage at the starter. I am not sure how slow your starter is, but if the engine is cranking over that should be enough to get one or two cylinders going.

There is also the problem with the ETM on some of the 2000 cars.

Remember, you are going to have a lot of raw gasoline in the cylinders because you are not running the starter with the pedal mashed to the floor to turn off the gas flow. The compression will be low because of the washed rings.

If you get too much amperage to the battery boost, you could fry the ECU.

Klaus

--
Two good Volvos, a 220 and a V70R

I checked with Volvo CustCare and they said the software was already upgraded. I asked about the unit having been replaced, but she had no info on that. 10 year warranty expires at end of this month. I'm thinking it's time to trailer the car to the dealer.
--
Optimist - half full, Pessimist - half empty, Engineer - The capacity is twice what it needs to be.

Dealer will not touch ETM without codes present, unless the throttle is a total failure

Hmmm. Someone pulled off the air supply duct at the throttle body to clean it, he had his daughter turn the key to posII, the ETM software opens the butterfly and closes it again doing a selfcheck. He managed to clean it by thurning the car 'on' about a dozen times.

So, you could check the ETM opening the throttle. I don't know what that buys you if you don't have spark.

Klaus
--
Two good Volvos, a 220 and a V70R

Yeah, this next couple days is supposed to be a few degrees short of the hell we've been experiencing. I plan on diving as deep as possible on the diagnosis. That key flick tip is perfect, I needed a way to check operation, but wasn't sure how. The big question of course is spark at this point.
Thanks for your advice and have a good weekend.
--
Optimist - half full, Pessimist - half empty, Engineer - The capacity is twice what it needs to be.